Randy Lynch
Member
I think I bought the same light that Ken purchased, only got mine at Kragen Auto Parts.
It is a TigerEy Brand, Item # G602C. It is called the TigerEy Universal Interior Utility Light. Cost was $6.99 per light and I bought two. It has a button switch for on and off.
First step was to drill holes in the base of the lights (the metal part that is show in the picture above). I did not like the sheet metal screws that came with the lights, so I opted instead to put in pan head screws that I could put a washer and nut on (two per light, and I chose these flat screws so that they would not stick up into the hood insulation – more on that later). After I drilled the holes in the blank part of the light bases, I used the base as a template to trace holes on the tabs under the hood. These tabs are near the bottom of the hood and simply hold the insulation on the hood. I gently bent these down and traced the holes on them. I then used an old piece of wood behind the tabs to protect the insulation (and hood for that matter) when I drilled the holes. You might want to use a hammer and an awl to make an indentation into the tab metal before drilling as it is hard to get the drill started and you are at an awkward angle for drilling under the hood. I used 3/8†pan heads by the way.
Here you can see the attachment. I cut the white wire (ground) off since the base is grounded to the tab and hood. I had not tightened up the nuts yet, that’s why there is a little gap under the screw heads. I put a washer on the top of the head, and one on the screw before the nut. Remember to take the bulb out of the base while working on these as it is easily broken. After you are done here, simply pull the black wire through the provided hole and put the bulb in and cover on.
Here is the light fully assembled with the cover on and switch in the front. Once you have the wiring done, all you have to do is bend the tab back up. I checked the clearance several times on both sides and while it is a little close on the left, you still have ¼†to ½†to work with when the hood is closed.
I used 18-guage wire on this project, and used wire connectors to make all the connections. These are the type you buy at any auto parts or hardware store. For the wiring, I connected the black (hot wire) from the light on the right to the 18-guage wire and ran it behind the insulation to the other light on the left. Here I connected the hot wire from this light to one end of the connector, and in the other end I twisted two pieces of the 18-guage wire together…the one from the right, and the one that continues the rest of the way to the battery. I used a small piece of electrical tape on this connection, as having two wires run into one end of the connector is rather tight. Next I ran the wire behind the rest of the insulation towards the hinge, as shown here. I used a 5’ piece of wire loom to wrap the wire from here on out. Up to this point, all the wire and connectors are under the insulation and are protected from the engine. I used black zip-ties (nylon) to attach the wire loom to the hinge…there is a small hole in the hinge to tie this to. Remember to leave some slack to the hood can open and close properly.
Next I ran the wire and wire loom down to the engine bay. Here I used another zip-tie to attach the loom to another loom that runs along the firewall. I left some slack in the zip tie so there was a little play in the wires. After this, I ran the loom behind the fuse block and through the bracket that holds it on. This gets it out of the way of the power steering pump and lines.
Here is the wire and loom coming out from behind the fuse block. Here I inserted an in-line fuse holder for protection. <B>Remember not to install this fuse until you are totally complete with the project.</B> This will provide protection for the system. I chose this location too as it is under the “lip†of the hood which will lessen the chance of water getting on the fuse. I used a mini-fuse holder with quick release connectors to attach the wire to the holder. I put another zip-tie here too, to hold the fuse holder and the loom on the other side of the holder. Again, it is not zipped too tight.
Next I ran the loom under the bolt that holds the power steering pump on in front and then brought it up near the positive side of the battery terminal.
To connect the wire to the positive side of the battery, I used a ring connector, 3/8†of an inch. I slid this over the exposed “bolt†end of the terminal, and put an 11mm nut on to hold it in place. Lastly, I put the 10 amp fuse in the holder and tried it out!!
Here is the finished product. All the wires are out of the way for a neat install.
And here it is in the semi-dark…it is way brighter in the dark, but I couldn’t get a good picture to come out in the full dark. It is very bright with these lights, and you could do engine work with them both on!! <B>Just remember to turn them off when you are done!!</B>
It is a TigerEy Brand, Item # G602C. It is called the TigerEy Universal Interior Utility Light. Cost was $6.99 per light and I bought two. It has a button switch for on and off.
First step was to drill holes in the base of the lights (the metal part that is show in the picture above). I did not like the sheet metal screws that came with the lights, so I opted instead to put in pan head screws that I could put a washer and nut on (two per light, and I chose these flat screws so that they would not stick up into the hood insulation – more on that later). After I drilled the holes in the blank part of the light bases, I used the base as a template to trace holes on the tabs under the hood. These tabs are near the bottom of the hood and simply hold the insulation on the hood. I gently bent these down and traced the holes on them. I then used an old piece of wood behind the tabs to protect the insulation (and hood for that matter) when I drilled the holes. You might want to use a hammer and an awl to make an indentation into the tab metal before drilling as it is hard to get the drill started and you are at an awkward angle for drilling under the hood. I used 3/8†pan heads by the way.
Here you can see the attachment. I cut the white wire (ground) off since the base is grounded to the tab and hood. I had not tightened up the nuts yet, that’s why there is a little gap under the screw heads. I put a washer on the top of the head, and one on the screw before the nut. Remember to take the bulb out of the base while working on these as it is easily broken. After you are done here, simply pull the black wire through the provided hole and put the bulb in and cover on.
Here is the light fully assembled with the cover on and switch in the front. Once you have the wiring done, all you have to do is bend the tab back up. I checked the clearance several times on both sides and while it is a little close on the left, you still have ¼†to ½†to work with when the hood is closed.
I used 18-guage wire on this project, and used wire connectors to make all the connections. These are the type you buy at any auto parts or hardware store. For the wiring, I connected the black (hot wire) from the light on the right to the 18-guage wire and ran it behind the insulation to the other light on the left. Here I connected the hot wire from this light to one end of the connector, and in the other end I twisted two pieces of the 18-guage wire together…the one from the right, and the one that continues the rest of the way to the battery. I used a small piece of electrical tape on this connection, as having two wires run into one end of the connector is rather tight. Next I ran the wire behind the rest of the insulation towards the hinge, as shown here. I used a 5’ piece of wire loom to wrap the wire from here on out. Up to this point, all the wire and connectors are under the insulation and are protected from the engine. I used black zip-ties (nylon) to attach the wire loom to the hinge…there is a small hole in the hinge to tie this to. Remember to leave some slack to the hood can open and close properly.
Next I ran the wire and wire loom down to the engine bay. Here I used another zip-tie to attach the loom to another loom that runs along the firewall. I left some slack in the zip tie so there was a little play in the wires. After this, I ran the loom behind the fuse block and through the bracket that holds it on. This gets it out of the way of the power steering pump and lines.
Here is the wire and loom coming out from behind the fuse block. Here I inserted an in-line fuse holder for protection. <B>Remember not to install this fuse until you are totally complete with the project.</B> This will provide protection for the system. I chose this location too as it is under the “lip†of the hood which will lessen the chance of water getting on the fuse. I used a mini-fuse holder with quick release connectors to attach the wire to the holder. I put another zip-tie here too, to hold the fuse holder and the loom on the other side of the holder. Again, it is not zipped too tight.
Next I ran the loom under the bolt that holds the power steering pump on in front and then brought it up near the positive side of the battery terminal.
To connect the wire to the positive side of the battery, I used a ring connector, 3/8†of an inch. I slid this over the exposed “bolt†end of the terminal, and put an 11mm nut on to hold it in place. Lastly, I put the 10 amp fuse in the holder and tried it out!!
Here is the finished product. All the wires are out of the way for a neat install.
And here it is in the semi-dark…it is way brighter in the dark, but I couldn’t get a good picture to come out in the full dark. It is very bright with these lights, and you could do engine work with them both on!! <B>Just remember to turn them off when you are done!!</B>
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