Unhappy with idling

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Dean Kolar

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Joined
Sep 26, 2012
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Location
Palatine, IL
When I put the truck into park the idle gets really low, and all the lights in dash kinda dim until it brings itself back up to normal again. A few years back I had the thermostat housing replaced, and noticed that it would also cause a similar issue when I had the AC or the heat on. The AC or heat would also cause issues if you were just parked at a stop light, even in drive. I cleaned the throttle body which was pretty dirty, and the IAC as well. The cleaning has seemed to fix the issues with the heat, but it is still getting lower rpms when I put it into park. I know it sounds dumb, but its almost like the idle needs to be raised or something. This has the signs of a vacuum leak, but I am unsure of where to look. I do know the PCV valve was replaced as well. Its a one owner truck with 152k, and I do have all the records for work done, I just currently am at work. The trac is going in on Sunday to get tie rods and water pump done, but I would like to look at something myself, or suggest a place for the mechanic to look if its above basic mechanical skills.



Thanks,

Dean
 
PCV elbow is no guarantee to fix your low idle, but should be checked at 152K anyway. Inspect the BOTTOM side.
 
I can't specifically remember if it was the elbow, valve, or what that was replaced but I will check when I get home in the garage. Is there anywhere else that I should check?
 
ANY time you're experiencing engine issues, the FIRST thing to do is scan for trouble codes. Just makes troubleshooting the issue(s) easier to isolate. If you don't have an OBD II reader, most larger auto parts chains will scan for them free. If DTC's are found, write the p0 NUMBERS down and post them here. Another option is buying an inexpensive connector and using a free program if you have a smartphone. Google FORSCAN, lot's of info on line. Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) linked below.
 
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Ok I will try to see if I can get my hands on a reader at autozone or something and then check back on here.

Thanks for the help!
 
So I went to autozone and used the code reader. Nothing popped up, and it seems to be fine now with the idling. The only other thing that I could think of is the spark plugs. The plugs nor the wires have been changed recently, if ever, and so I wonder if that could play a role in it. The elbow and hoses were replaced in 2013 at like 120k for the PCV, so I don't think its that. The truck spent most of the past 5 years going back and forth to the high school close by, hence the low mileage increases. I'm gonna dump some seafoam in as well as do the intake spray.
 
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Proven and preferred spark plugs for 2001-05 (Gen 1) ST's are OE Motorcraft SP-500 Finewire Platinum, Autolite APP103 Double Platibum, or XP103 Iridium. CAREFULLY check .054" gap without touching the center electrodes. Most prefer using a thin coat of copper or nickel anti seize on the threads and silicone dielectric grease on the wire boots both available in pocket packs at the counter. Not my store of choice, but O'Reilly's usually stocks the Motorcraft SP-500 for around $5 per plug. Many use the Motorcraft WR6120 wires that are engine specific and correct lengths. Remove the passenger tire to access plug #3 closest to the firewall. IMO, neither are difficult jobs, take your time and you're gold for another 70K minimum. Many here to help, if you have questions just ask.
 
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A vacum leak can make the motor race.

If it continues, replace the IAC. If it is original, old one can still stick after cleaning. Disconect battery for 10 minutes. start the motor cold. Let it idle until normal operating temp before driving. It should relearn idle.

This depends if you dont find other problems
 
BTW, O'Reilly's price for SP-500 plugs is" reasonable", NOT for WR6120 wires. Amazon $42 shipped, O'Reilly $71 and more than likely special order. Shop around.
 
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See if an auto parts store has a reader that can check your idle so we have a reference. Maybe you could find a cheap engine diagnostic tool on craigslist or at a neighbors or shop and get back to the forum with the rpm reading. Get the battery checked too, the fan in the heat ac unit draws voltage, and if your batt or alternator is weak can cause quite a drop in rpm. Good luck, hopefully you will be back to normal soon. :driving:
 
I unplugged the battery for awhile after cleaning the throttle body and IAC and it seemed to work. I think it just needed to relearn the idle after it was cleaned. May look into the spark plugs later this year before summer time because now the truck will get minimal use while I'm away at school. Thanks for the help and reassurance!
 

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