UPDATE = A/C Clutch replacement / 2001 Ford Taurus

[David Ponder]

A/C clutch on my daughters car is bad. (Clutch disengage springs on outer piece are loose where the 3 rivets connect it)



In any case, I need to start on this project in the Morning and would appreciate any input or suggestions anyone can offer. The pulley turns smooth and quiet, the outer piece is all that is actually bad.



Since the new assembly looks somewhat different, I assume I cant get away with just replacing the outer piece, or can I?



Here is a picture of the OEM type that is on the car. (Part was not in stock and unavailable until next monday if ordered)



[Broken External Image]:





Here is the type that was available, As I need to get this done tomorrow.



[Broken External Image]:







I see no way to replace this while in the vehicle, (3.0 12 valve Flex Fuel engine)

Also, I see no easy access to this even if I unbolt the compressor.

Trying to do this without disconnecting the AC lines.



Any suggestions? Read where one guy says to drop the lower frame...

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, and if you are in KC MO, feel free to come help!



Thanks Everyone.

Dave

 

[Kevin Palmer]

Found this, slightly different year, but may be worth looking at...



How to Replace the A/C Compressor and Accumulator on 1996 thru 2001 Ford Tauruses & Mercury Sables, with a 3.0L Duratec Engine



Guaranteed to Work . . . By Experience

(This is a hard 8 hour job, even if you know what you're doing and use a lift)





1. Recover the R-134a refrigerant, by attaching a Robinair CoolTech Semi-Automatic Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Station to the low pressure valve, where the accumulator hose goes into the evaporator.



2. Disconnect the negative battery cable, remove air dam, and drain radiator.



3. Remove serpentine belt.



4. Remove old compressor from below the car:



a. Remove exhaust system, from just below the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter. This is where 18" to 24" extensions come in handy.



b. Remove radiator cooling fan.



c. Remove lower thermostat housing and hoses.



d. Remove electrical connector to clutch.



e. Remove old compressor, by removing manifold and four mounting bolts. This provides ample room to remove and install the new compressor.



5. Optional Step: Empty the 6 oz. of Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil that came in the compressor. Instead, I added 6 oz. of BG Universal Frigi-Quiet Refrigerant Oil (Part No. 7018) to the Suction Port (S). It's a di-capped PAG oil that was strongly recommended by several people I know, who have serviced auto air conditioners in Texas for years. It can be used with R-12, R-134a, and CO2 systems and comes with a dye. I expect BG Universal Frigi-Quiet Refrigerant Oil to substantially extend the life and improve the performance of the compressor, just as other full-synthetic lubricants have already extended the life and improved the performance of my engine, power steering, and transmission.



6. Remove both O-rings from the back of the new compressor and clutch (Motorcraft Part No. YCC212). Install new O-rings, after coating them with PAG oil, to the Suction (S) and Discharge (D) ports.



7. Install new compressor and clutch--tighten four mounting bolts 18 lb.-ft. Keep the plug on the compressor ports, in order not to loose any refrigerant oil during installation. Remove plug, attach manifold, and tighten manifold bolt 15 lb.-ft. Use the original manifold bolt, not the shipping bolt securing the plug. Attach electrical connector to clutch, after applying dielectric grease.



8. Install lower thermostat housing and hoses.



9. Remove the old accumulator, by removing the A/C tube lock coupling clips and, by using the proper line separator tool, separate the spring lock couplers. One coupler (5/8-inch) connects the accumulator to the compressor and the other coupler (3/4-inch) connects the accumulator to the evaporator. Disconnect the electrical connector on the air conditioning cycling switch on top of the accumulator. Remove accumulator mounting bolts.



10. Install new accumulator (Motorcraft Part No. YF2569). Replace the three O-rings going to each connection, coat O-rings with PAG oil, connect accumulator lines to the compressor and evaporator, replace the A/C tube lock coupling clips, connect the cycling switch electrical connector (apply dielectric grease), and tighten mounting bolts.



11. Important: Rotate the three lugs on the end of the clutch several revolutions, using a pry bar, before turning the air conditioner on. This will circulate the oil in the compressor. Otherwise, the compressor may fail.



12. Attach radiator cooling fan, serpentine belt, exhaust system, negative battery cable, air dam, and refill radiator with coolant.



13. Evacuate, leak test, and charge the A/C system with 34 oz. of R-134a.



14. Test drive the car. Place a thermostat in the center cooling vent and ensure the system cools down enough. I stopped making it colder on my Taurus, when it recorded 32 degrees F.



15. Record work performed in Maintenance Log.

 

[Steve McKellop]

From what I remember that compressor is a royal pain to get to.



I sent you clutch R&R instructions on the chance you can get to it.

 

[scott degroot]

Out of curiousity what has going on that made you start looking at the clutch??

 

[EddieS'04]

Learned my leason on a high milage car. When the clutch went bad. The compressor, didnt last much longer. I replace both a the same time now.

 

[David Ponder]

Got it partially apart last night. Clutch assy, (Return springs) are completely shot. that is what was rattling. Cause of this, using a mirror seems to be pulley hub bearing, as I can see the ball bearings in it, and part of the metal cover to the bearings came out also, Pulley/Bearing assy and the coil are still on the compressor. Havent removed the compressor from car yet, just unbolted it and moved it back



Steve, 100% correct. Worst AC Compressor job I have ever done. Absolutely zero room to do anything. Even if I disconnect the compressor there is no easy way to get it out of the vehicle.



L1, Rattling noises from front assy. I could physically see the wobble in it while running and AC off.



Eddie, Clutch was $65, Compressor assy is $172, and they wont warranty it unless the dryer/evap and orifice tube are also replaced. (Addl $100 there too) Trying to save some $$ but I may end up doing this anyway if I have to remove the compressor from the car. Trying to find a way to do it without removal, but having no luck.



This is one of those things that I am wishing I could take it somewhere to have it done, but dont have the $$ for that. Thanks all.

 

[scott degroot]

I'm confused, if you have the 12 valve motor then all you should have to so is yank the cooling fan and the compressor should come out that way...granted you will have to discharge the ac. If you have the 24 valve motor...well that's a different story.

 

[David Ponder]

L1, Thanks for the tip. I was able to remove the Compressor thru the added space the right fan removal created. I almost had to remove the O2 sensor, but was able to get around it.



Once I got it out, it was fairly easy from there. Reassembly was not too bad, and the system wasnt open too long. Hopefully it will last. Pulled good vaccuum and held it for 30 minutes, so I recharged it and its working fine. Only took the thinnest washer to set the clutch gap.



Thanks Everyone.



Dave

 

[scott degroot]

Good deal