What next... Rear differential leak.

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Larry Phillips

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At least I made it home... The rear differential is leaking at the driveshaft. At first, it was just a stain on the bottom of the differential casing, but last night I got home, and I could hear the gears meshing back there under load. Crawled under to find that there's gear lube all over the leading edge of the spare, and the swaybar is slathered in it. Gotta at least get more lube into her today, but looks like I'll be droppin' the driveshaft this week...
 
Other than a bit if a hassle, it is not too bad of a job. Just be careful that you keep lube in there until you can get to fixing it....



Maybe go up in weight as it will take longer to leak out.
 
Anyone know where I can find a good set of instructions to replace the seal, or tell me what precautions I need to take, or things I need to look at? I can't find anything on the internet, and the Hayne's book isn't much help.
 
I hate those types of leaks. My entire rear diff was leaking under warrenty. I'm looking at the receipt and its a total of 4.5 hours of work. I'm not sure but some members have the actual shop manuels. If not you might want to look on ebay. I know, time is of the essence. Im not much help but I'll peek around and see what I can find.
 
One of the hard parts is to remove the nut that holds the part on that the drive shaft bolts into. The best way to remove the nut is to get a LARGE pipe wrench and put it on the unit that the shaft is bolted too. You will do this once the drive shaft is unbolted and removed. Then using at least 1/2 inch drive tools, even better to use either 3/4 or 1 inch drive tools.



The nut will be TIGHT and it is the lefty loosey righty tighty rule, (standard threads).



The collar SOMETIMES will slip out with a little bit of love taps on the backside of the collar. Sometimes it take some pretty good hits as it is a pressed fit onto the pinion shaft of the ring and pinion.



Once it is removed, either tap out or pry out the seal.



Reinstall is in the reverse.



One note of caution. There is an item called a crush sleeve. It will be in behind the collar, in most cases it will stay in without falling out. This crush sleeve is crushed down as you tighten the nut to hold on the collar. It is designed that way to maintain pressure on all the inter-connected parts. At my shop, I will not do this job without installing a new crush sleeve. But in your case, you probably do not have the tools to crush it down at your home. So,,, use the original and get it nice and tight. You want to use the pipe wrench to hold the collar so as not to put the pressure against the ring or pinion gears...



Good luck...
 
There is actually a torque spec for a new crush sleeve and re using the old one....



May want to get that info....



Todd Z
 
Thanks for the replies. I crawled under and cleaned off most of the gunk and refilled the pumpkin. It took just over a quart to fill it. No wonder I could hear the gears meshing back there. It stopped clunking when I let off the gas, and she doesn't feel as sluggish as she did this past week (go fig). I'll keep an eye on the fluid level until I can fix this problem.
 
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