Broken exhaust manifold stud

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Mel pilgrim 2

Mel pilgrim 2

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Aug 22, 2016
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Winnipeg, MB
Hi everyone. I have an 09 with 4.6. Sounds like a stud (or studs) is broken on passenger exhaust manifold. For anyone that has done their exhaust manifold studs, what cost might I be looking at? Did you replace only broken stud or all studs?
Thanks
 
I was quoted $1300 at one dealership... $2500 at another. Mine is super annoying for about 30 to 45 seconds then once the manifolds heat up enough to expand, it goes away. I decided to tolerate it until I get brave enough to spend a weekend trying to drill them out or weld nuts to them to extract them. Neither will be fun!
 
No it's not fun I have done it 3 times on my 2008 xlt V8 make sure you torque them or within a month you will be doing it again. I also used bolts instead of studs and used 1 piece gasket. Use studs on the ends to make installation easier then replace them. The individual 4 piece set of gaskets make it difficult to install manifold . Loosen motor mount to lift engine to give you more room. I bought everything from Rock auto replaced the manifolds also still only about 180 dollars.
 
Last edited:
I just finished removing 3 broken studs from the drivers side and 4 from the passenger side. I pulled the engine so I can change out seals and gaskets too. Used my wire feed welder to weld 3/8" grade 5 nuts. Hit the nut with cold water while it was still red hot and they backed right out. Good luck and lots of patience helped.
 
While replacing the studs is obviously the main goal here, keep in mind the main problem to focus on is the manifolds are warped. So if you only replace the studs, and you reuse the old manifolds(without fixing the warp), you’re setting yourself up for failure. When you torque the old manifolds down, you’re putting a BUNCH of added stress on the studs(manifold bending). I would suggest taking the old manifolds, if they aren’t too rusted and in decent shape, to a machine shop and have them decked. I wouldn’t trust new manifolds without doing the same process. Moreover, new manifolds still need to go through a few heat cycles to fully relax to their final state-meaning you could deck new manifolds, but they may still flex after they get heat in them. Which is why I suggest using old manifolds and get them decked.

If you have a big enough table top belt sander, you can do this at home. It’s not perfect, but if you take your time, any variance is well within the gasket thickness, not to mention wayyyyyyyyy within a warped manifold. Food for thought.
 
Phil Tranbarger said:
I just finished removing 3 broken studs from the drivers side and 4 from the passenger side. I pulled the engine so I can change out seals and gaskets too. Used my wire feed welder to weld 3/8" grade 5 nuts. Hit the nut with cold water while it was still red hot and they backed right out. Good luck and lots of patience helped.
Click to expand...
Thanks Phil. Have a shop I trust who is going to do the work. He’s aware of how ugly it can get. He fully expects to have to lift the engine up 3-5” for clearance. Then once the exhaust manifold is off, get it cleaned up and get the broken studs out, put in new ‘stronger’ studs and done. Fingers crossed.
 
Blown09 said:
While replacing the studs is obviously the main goal here, keep in mind the main problem to focus on is the manifolds are warped. So if you only replace the studs, and you reuse the old manifolds(without fixing the warp), you’re setting yourself up for failure. When you torque the old manifolds down, you’re putting a BUNCH of added stress on the studs(manifold bending). I would suggest taking the old manifolds, if they aren’t too rusted and in decent shape, to a machine shop and have them decked. I wouldn’t trust new manifolds without doing the same process. Moreover, new manifolds still need to go through a few heat cycles to fully relax to their final state-meaning you could deck new manifolds, but they may still flex after they get heat in them. Which is why I suggest using old manifolds and get them decked.

If you have a big enough table top belt sander, you can do this at home. It’s not perfect, but if you take your time, any variance is well within the gasket thickness, not to mention wayyyyyyyyy within a warped manifold. Food for thought.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Yes, fully expect to have the old manifold cleaned up before installing. Thanks
 
Replace the manifolds, and use the upgraded studs sold on line.... the old manifolds are warped.... Unless you machine them flat it will only happen again.
 
here is my story. after 1-2 yrs of having the 10sec rattle on pass side at every startup, studs finally gave way ( sounded on dr. side ) knowing that a mechanic shop would want to raise engine to change manifolds...went to an exhaust shop instead. they confirmed problem, said they have done st's with 8cyl before and quoted $700/side labour if i bought parts. found 2 manifolds on rock auto incl gaskets and bolts for exhaust flange for $300 usd/ 450 cdn. also found the stainless manifold studs on amazon for $60cnd for the 16 needed for both sides. they had truck from thurs 8am to fri. noon....they did not loosen motor mounts to lift eng. not a job they look forward to doing but everything worked out smoothly as possible for them. truck runs smoother and quieter than anytime in last 7yrs that i have had it. hopefully they torqued everything to spec ( i left specs on pass seat for them) and this will last for some time. in conclusion...about $2000 cdn to get both sides done.
hopes this helps anyone just starting to look into repairing this common concern.
 

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