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Thank you! I remember using bolts a bit longer than stock because that’s what was available at the Quality Fasteners store at the time. But the hardness was greater than stock so I don’t know how the alignment would have possibly broken it. Unless the lift point made contact with the excess length.

Since there’s so much seasoned experience regarding lifts in this thread I think it’s a good place to ask this. Some years ago I installed a pair of eccentric torsion bar keys to bring my front end up a few inches to even with the rear after replacing the leaf springs. But a chain store...

Great idea now that I've retired and have all the time without all the money. I have been meaning to pull a driver side lower seat cushion that way as well.

I’m sure NorgeMan and I are both keeping our “made in China” fingers crossed on product durability. But aren’t we all!?

I haven’t started the project yet but I considered buying the bezel from eBay to expedite the process. The heat from the factory unit is high and probably caused the paint to peel so I bought the plastic adhesion primer and paint. I’m fairly confident of success having done several projects on...

I bought the BOSS double DIN with some trepidation about removal if it fails. But I got it from Crutchfield with a lifetime warranty to make dashboard removal worth the trouble if it does. Plus I had to go with the backup camera option since the daughter will be driving it. I put the rear bumper...

I’m supposing the brake light switch but the brake lights are working.

I’m hearing a switch relay ticking under the dash when I depress and let off the brake pedal while backing up. I also don’t have to push the brake pedal while starting the engine. The neutral safety switch only allows a start in P or N position. Any ideas?

Years ago Prestone made a T joint to splice into the heater hose specifically to backflush the heater core and the radiator. The kit came with a deflector tube that you'd stick into the radiator fill opening to allow the water pressure from the T joint to be directed away from the the vehicle...

QuirkParts.com had the OEM parts including the metal washers which are a must. Removing the top one requires removing the plastic thermostat housing which I replaced with a metal one from RockAuto.com as an afterthought when I found the plastic one leaked. Removing the lower one required...

Search auto trim fasteners on Amazon. They aren’t expensive.

My 04 ST never had the small guards but the holes in the upper splash guards are already present for installing the new lowers. Carparts.com guaranteed the fitment and both sides are identical. Your link doesn’t show the images on page 2, only the two comments next to where the image would have...

The skirt attaches to the bottom of the current top wheel well guard. I just bought a pair for $22 plus tax and shipping or $38 total.

My 04 ST XLT came with the 12V sockets wired to the ignition switch. Ten years ago they went out and I had it hot wired when it was in the dealer for other service. IMO even an LED indicator will take a toll on battery life over time unless you’re connecting a light charge while not in use.

Let us know how it looks after the spring thaw!

I found replacements from rockauto.com a few years ago. It’d be worth a look.

If he doesn’t want the mats I have need for my 04 ST.

Still waiting to take off the tuke, eh?

And…?

Just wondering how long did it take to fix the throttle body leak? New gasket?