2002 ST Driver door says "DOOR AJAR"

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swshawaii said:
I don't think you want to use OEM body mounts, even if you can find them. I wouldn't use them again if they were free. At least the "A" and "B" pillar orange colored foam mounts.
https://www.explorerforum.com/forum...mount-bushings-w-hardware.473667/post-3721483
Replaced these (again) last week with the Daystar KF04015KV kevlar infused body mounts. All eight crumbled to the touch when removing. Had to cut off flared end of metal sleeve from the upper bushing caused by foam shrinkage and bottoming out on the lower bushing metal flange. Added two 2" OD flat washers used as spacers. Second pic without washers and third pic with washers.
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I can vouch for this reco.

Actually, whatever material Ford made, the B and C mount out of deteriorated fast. The A and D mounts seem to be made out of a tougher material because when I replaced my body mounts years ago, they were still good. But B and C were gone. There was some rotten material around the body bushing bolts, but it was just more or less residue.

I can't imagine any of the originals are still on the 1st gen trucks at this point.
 
Here's one of the better tutorials I've seen.
 
Tim OLeary said:
Suddenly. Door doesn't close flush but unlocks (with inside and outside handles) locks (when door is closed) & latches OK. (shouldering the door from the inside and it does not open).
I lifted up on door and upper door bushing is worn, but not noticeably more than other doors. The nylon on the door lock striker is very worn and cracked. Tryed to adjust and a lot of WD-40 into the latch hole.
In the four days I have the problem, the DOOR AJAR light went off TWICE when I closed the door.

BTW: While I have the door panel open, the electric lock/unlock doesn't work either.
Any pointers, part numbers would be appreciated.
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Hello,
I have an '02 also. It seems that several have mentioned Body Mounts as an issue. I must say even if replacing them isnt the cause of your problem.Inhighly recommend the change. My mounts were so bad when I loosened them they just fell out in pieces. After wards the ride was fantastic.
Good fortune,
Gil
 
Yes indeed. my body mounts are totally worn out, and they need to be replaced. Not sure when I will do the work since I use the vehicle every day, and I can imagine encountering issues especially with corroded hardware.
I will post when work is complete.
Thanks
 
Tim OLeary said:
Yes indeed. my body mounts are totally worn out, and they need to be replaced. Not sure when I will do the work since I use the vehicle every day, and I can imagine encountering issues especially with corroded hardware.
I will post when work is complete.
Thanks
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Do you have or have access to an impact wrench? If not, this might be a good excuse to buy one. I can't imagine life without my power tools. 😀

My tools reduce my cost of ownership to fuel, parts, fluids, fuel and saves my personal time. If it saves you one trip to a professional mechanic, it'll pay for itself in labor costs alone. After that, take care of your tools, and they continue to pay you dividends.

A good motivation is to get a quote from a professional mechanic on replacing the body bushings. If you really want to inflate your feeling of accomplishment ask a Ford Dealership what they'd charge you. I guarantee you'll come out ahead buying a high-quality cordless impact wrench. And then, when it comes time to overhaul your suspension, you'll be ahead of the game.

I don't have to deal with corrosion here in the southeast. But I still had to use a propane torch on the bolts. Even so, I don't think it took me any more than a Saturday morning to get mine done, and that's working alone. If you have another set of hands, it'd probably go faster. Soak everything in penetrating oil Friday night, get up early Saturday, hit it again, and keep a touch handy for any problems.

You won't regret it. Having good body bushings goes a long way to restoring the ride of the truck to like new. If you overhaul the suspension, it'll feel like you're driving it off a new car lot.
 
My shop installed the prothane pads (about $120) for $288 and the ride is smoother and quieter, better on the bumps, and the Door Ajar light is out because the driver door close and seats properly. I do not think I could have done it in a reasonable amount of time out in the driveway, so I am grateful for the support and encouragment from the forum
 
Tim OLeary said:
My shop installed the prothane pads (about $120) for $288 and the ride is smoother and quieter, better on the bumps, and the Door Ajar light is out because the driver door close and seats properly. I do not think I could have done it in a reasonable amount of time out in the driveway, so I am grateful for the support and encouragment from the forum
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Nice. Seems like a fair cost to me, maybe even a bit low. Though not a particularly difficult job it does take some time.
Tim OLeary said:
The electric lock on the driver door which hadn't worked in several years now works.
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Funny how all sorts of things can start to go wrong when your body sags too much. 😉
 
blert said:
Nice. Seems like a fair cost to me, maybe even a bit low. Though not a particularly difficult job it does take some time.

Funny how all sorts of things can start to go wrong when your body sags too much. 😉
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$288 for labor is fair. It's a 2-3 hour job.
 
That's what I thought, and that's the time they quoted and billed.
I didn't want to get involved with torching the bolts to free up the locktight, and actually figured the bolts would all be torn up, but they reused them.
 
I just got mine done. Ride is much better. But now there is knocking noice. Or just sounds like something loose and can’t find where it is coming from. Don’t know if it is related.
 
Is the sound constant while the engine running?
While the vehicle is moving or stationary?
When you hit a bump?
Inside the vehicle or underneath?
Towards the front or the rear?
My bet would be that while jacking up the vehicle and see[rating the cab from the chassis something got displaced or not adequately re-tightend.

I'm not a believer in coincidences.
Are you on friendly terms so you can get the mechanic to listen to the sound and track it down?
 
Tim OLeary said:
Is the sound constant while the engine running?
While the vehicle is moving or stationary?
When you hit a bump?
Inside the vehicle or underneath?
Towards the front or the rear?
My bet would be that while jacking up the vehicle and see[rating the cab from the chassis something got displaced or not adequately re-tightend.

I'm not a believer in coincidences.
Are you on friendly terms so you can get the mechanic to listen to the sound and track it down?
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1. No
2. Moving
3. No
4. Inside
5. Rear

I have noticed the sound when the cab is flexing. I realized it was coming from rear passenger side. This evening, while stationary, I put pressure at rear passenger side door to try to flex cab in that corner. It made that sound.
 
One of the cab pads is near the latch edge of the door. The bolt is behind the seat. Maybe pill the seat forward to expose the storage are back there. Roll down the window and repeat your test to see if it localized the noise better. Sounds like that bolt might have loosened up a little. I'm just guessing. There are so many things that can rib and jiggle. If you locate the bolt in there, maybe some WD40? There are many helpful videos on this repair to help you locate the bolt
 
Tim OLeary said:
One of the cab pads is near the latch edge of the door. The bolt is behind the seat. Maybe pill the seat forward to expose the storage are back there. Roll down the window and repeat your test to see if it localized the noise better. Sounds like that bolt might have loosened up a little. I'm just guessing. There are so many things that can rib and jiggle. If you locate the bolt in there, maybe some WD40? There are many helpful videos on this repair to help you locate the bolt
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You mean the bolt to the body mount?
 

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