2002 'Trac - Dimensions of biggest Battery?

[Gary Hart]

Hey people...



I need to know what are the biggest overall dimensions for a battery that can fit in the battery compartment found in a 2002 SportTrac.



Saving-up, then gonna order the biggest Kinetik Power Cell that can fit in the starter-battery compartment.



I held a tape measure to it. But I'd like a more precise meaurement if anyone happens to know what the manuals, etc state.

 

[Robert Caffyn]

You had a tape measure in there, what did you get??? I mean, the battery tray is only so big. Maybe you can get some extra height? Check with Todd Z., he and a few others had a Sears Diehard X-something. It was a big gray battery that cost like 4 times what a normal battery does. They claim it doesn't get any better than that! BC

 

[swshawaii]

I bought the DieHard Platinum P-2 after Todd's recommendation and stellar reviews.



930CCA, 135 minute reserve, 4 year exhange/100 month prorated warranty.



Check out the web site for specs and details. No regrets whatsoever, a winner.

 

[EddieS'04]

The physical size of the battery is not what counts. It is the cold cranking amps and the reserve amps.



I think the 65 series in our tracs are the largest, in physical size.

 

[Bill Koonce]

Size does matter, but it's not always directly related to output or power capacity. The so-called "maintenance free" batteries simply add more electrolyte, so that there's enough to keep the battery going until the warranty expires. More electrolyte means bigger batteries, but no extra output. It's a marketing gimmick, nothing else.



I've never seen a "maintenance free" battery that can't be serviced just like regular old batteries. Sometimes it takes a little work to get the covers off, but other than that, they're plain old flooded batteries that are bigger and heavier than you really need.



If you're looking for a new starter battery, look for AGM (absorbed glass mat) technology. These have the best power density, will not leak if something like a wreck opens them up, and perform as well as flooded batteries.



If you park outside in places where it gets really cold, getting more CCA than the factory battery never hurts, provided that the battery fits. If you live where the temperature rarely drops below freezing, big CCA numbers alone do nothing for you. If you run auxiliary electronics while the motor is off, think about getting a second battery to power these things. You'll need a battery isolator for the alternator to charge both batteries, and to keep your starter battery from being deep cycled. (Starter batteries don't last long if they're discharged too much.)



If the factory battery mount doesn't work for you, just remove it. You can buy specialty battery boxes (required for racing) and mounting hardware from places like Summit or Jeg's.

 

[Gary Hart]

I already have a 2nd Battery. A little Kinetik HC600. I'm thinking I'll replace the starter battery with either a Kinetik HC1800 or HC2000.



I don't have an isolator between the two at the moment.



Why do a need an isolator in order for the alternator to charge both batteries?



I know about the equalization that goes on between the batteries... but with them both connected in parallel (like Kinetik recommends) I don't see how the alternator could NOT push charge to both.



My system is not that darn intense. 600 W RMS for Mono, 300 W RMS for the 4 doors.



Please elaborate on the isolator issue. Now ya got me wondering if all I need is an isolator.



My issue is that after a certain amount of playback at high volume (varies with song) the highs/mids (aka 4-ch amp) has its output fade on me.



It's pissing me off, and that is what prompted me to install the 2nd battery AND run new 4 gauge power and grounds. And replace Battery Ground with a 4 guage and add a 2nd wire (4 Gauge) to the Positive Alternator going to the Battery Positive. (2 of the Big 3).



This all started happening when I adding my newer and better Pioneer GM-D9500F 4ch. I had a wimpy SSL F4.400 before that and it just wasn't enough to keep-up with the 600 W RMS subwoofer output. But I imagine since it's power-draw was less because of it's wimpy output I probably never noticed the symptom before the switch.



I've already addictively put a sizeable chunk of change upgrading my system over the past 2 years. At this point I'm trying to be cautious and get only exactly what need to overcome this irritating issue.



The way I see it, my choices are....

=======================

- Get a Kinetik Starter Battery (Matching battery technologies)

- Get a High Output Alternator (More fuss than I care to do if can be helped)

- Or, maybe installing a Battery isolator would be all that's needed?



Things to note:

==========

- I currently have a less than 1 yr old DuraLast Gold 950Amp battery.

- Kinetik's installation instructions are to wirre the batteries in parallel. They do recommend using 2 Kinetik's though to be using same kind of batteries to minimize eualization discharging.



Questions:

=======

Both amps are fed from a Distribution Block connected to the HC600 Battery mounted at back riht next to them. If I install a Battery Isolator, wouldn't that prohibit my amps from pulling any current from the bigger starter battery up front?





"the only stupid question is the one you don't ask."

 

[Gavin Allan]

Isolator keeps the starter battery from being drained. You probably want to be able to start your truck at all times?



Beefing up the positive side is only 1/2 of the job. You may want to run separate grounding/bonding wires between both batteries, the alternator case, the engine, and the body. You will get voltage drop through the body if you are just grounding to the frame in the rear seat.



+1 to what Mustang Guy says. CCA is important, but for your use, you want to pay more attention to amp-hours, especially for the auxiliary battery.

 

[Gary Hart]

Starter and auxillary are wired in parallel, without an isolator, so whenever I need to start the car it's using the power from BOTH of them.



I have a 4 gauge ground on the Starter Battery to Frame... and a 4 gauge ground on the auxillary battery out back. The HC600 out back is grounded to a beefy Bolt which holds down the rear seat.



I was under the car y'day. I think I saw where the other ground from Battery attaches to a bolt holding what I *THINK* is the Starter Motor where engine meets Tranny case.



How would I ground alternator case? I'm assuming that just means I need to do the last of the Big 3 which would be grounding engine block to frame of car with another 4 gauge piece correct?



Has anyone else done this last step? I'm trying to figure out which two bolt points would be best/safest to use for that.

 

[Gary Hart]

I read on another forum that somebody tried a Kinetik HC1800 under the hood but that it was a little too tall and the posts touched the hood! (Eeek!)



I want to find out what is the biggest AGM technology battery that can fit in a Gen1's battery tray.

 

[Gary Hart]

I want to find out what is the biggest AGM technology battery that can fit in a Gen1's battery tray.



Sorry about the hiatous from this thread. But I've put this off too long. I've already installed a battery isolator, but it may be a little late for that to help me on this issue. I *think* the Starter battery might be affected by all that equalization discharging that no-doubt happened all the time without the isolator.



The Kinetik HC1800 shows a hieght of 8.2"



My Duralast Gold 950 it'd be replacing lists a height of 7+9/16".



Can anyone please tell me ASAP if you know for sure an HC1800 would fit under the hood?



Many Thanks... I'm pretty sure my existing Starter battery is not happy anymore and needs replacement.

 

[Roger Batts]

From the Ford parts catalog, BXT65650, Width - 7 3/16" x Length - 11 1/8" x Height - 7 9/16", however, the BXT65750 and BXT65850 are physically the same size, but have 750 to 850 CCA. If you have a lot of electronics added or spend a lot of time in extreme conditions, I'd go with the 850.