2004 ST project - 181k “K” engine rehab

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GO BILLS Jake

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Jul 31, 2021
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Location
Coatesville, PA
I bought my next project yesterday and I will be the first time working on a “K” engine. Timing guides are laying in the oil pan so rattles horribly but it still runs and drives. Needs some TLC but remote start (bonus!)

NEED YOUR FEEDBACK PLEASE: Pull the rads out to access OR pull the engine for a top end rebuild. Your thoughts?

She was about to be sold for scrap iron. I love saving them from death row.
 

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Looks like an interesting rehab project!
I'd pull both Engine+Tranny, give both a full rebuild.
Replace+Upgrade OilPump to HiVolumeUnit.
Replace+Upgrade Radiator to AllAluminum 3or4RowCore.
Replace+Upgrade RadiatorHoses to StainlessFlex.
Replace+UpGrade ThermoStatHousing to Alumnum.
Replace+UpGrade TrannyPan+Filter to 4x4DeepVersion+DrainBung+FumotoValve.
Upgrade TrannyCooler.
Renew all Hoses+Fluids+Filters+Plugs+Wires+OxSensors.
Pull ShortBed & inspect\clean FuelPump+Tank+FillPipe+EVAP, repair\replace as needed.
Remediate Rust as needed.
DoubleInsulate WiringHarnesses, especially underbody.

Do keep us updated with lots of pics!
 
If you said the chain guides are laying in the pan then your answer is to pull the engine. Pulling the radiator only gives access to the front of the engine, you can’t pull out anything to give you access to the back of the engine. This engine has 3 chains (2 in the front and 1 in the back). Now you could get crazy and swap it with an “X” engine.
 
Looks great - I wish I could fund a center console like that!
That center console was standard\common on 2001~2005 Gen1's;
should be able to find one on Ebay, Amazon, or your local JunkYard.
The upholstery & plastic inner on the lids tend to get torn & broken,
but those are definitely available on Ebay, or be easily re-upholstered DIY.
 
Front guides can be done in truck, rear yank motor...
 
That center console was standard\common on 2001~2005 Gen1's;
should be able to find one on Ebay, Amazon, or your local JunkYard.
The upholstery & plastic inner on the lids tend to get torn & broken,
but those are definitely available on Ebay, or be easily re-upholstered DIY.
Yep I have been looking in local pick n pulls but no luck so far - not my first priority right now as I have the front of my truck apart but will keep looking
 
Ok so found an engine ($2250.00) with 135k and one year parts/labor warranty from the shop. Rock Auto for all needed too end rebuild parts ordered last night. Will post pictures as the progress goes.

was not aware of the rear chain but guessing that’s why there was a third in the set. Going to keep the 181k in my garage once pulled and take it apart myself. I’ve never rebuilt one but that’s why there’s YouTube and Google.
 
If you said the chain guides are laying in the pan then your answer is to pull the engine. Pulling the radiator only gives access to the front of the engine, you can’t pull out anything to give you access to the back of the engine. This engine has 3 chains (2 in the front and 1 in the back). Now you could get crazy and swap it with an “X” engine.
Ooooooooo, what’s an “X” engine? Have to research that now too. Thanks!
 
Looks like an interesting rehab project!
I'd pull both Engine+Tranny, give both a full rebuild.
Replace+Upgrade OilPump to HiVolumeUnit.
Replace+Upgrade Radiator to AllAluminum 3or4RowCore.
Replace+Upgrade RadiatorHoses to StainlessFlex.
Replace+UpGrade ThermoStatHousing to Alumnum.
Replace+UpGrade TrannyPan+Filter to 4x4DeepVersion+DrainBung+FumotoValve.
Upgrade TrannyCooler.
Renew all Hoses+Fluids+Filters+Plugs+Wires+OxSensors.
Pull ShortBed & inspect\clean FuelPump+Tank+FillPipe+EVAP, repair\replace as needed.
Remediate Rust as needed.
DoubleInsulate WiringHarnesses, especially underbody.

Do keep us updated with lots of pics!
Thank you! Found that cast metal t-stat housing and ordered thanks to your feedback. Cherry picked from your list, and have to watch budgets. Have two other projects in the works also…………yes I’m addicted to Sport Tracs.
 
The X code is a 390 cid engine. Used in the full size Fords, Mecurys and Lincolns in the 60s and some trucks. It was a 2 barrel carb and had good torque. The 4 barrel version (S code) had a 4 barrel carb and made 40 more ft/lbs of torque in stock form. The real stomper of the '60s was the 427 cid engine (W code) side oiler (also available as a top oiler) and was actually 425.98 cid. But Ford called it a 427 to differentiate it from the rivaled Chrysler 426 Hemi. Chevy didn't have a qualm with their the big inch GM engines and also had a 427 and was fuel injected in the Corvette. The Ford 427 side oiler was probably the best of the lot as the later FE 427s were essentially factory racing engines. Introduced in 1958, horse power/torque varied, as it was meant for buses, trucks. However, the ruggedness of the engine and big displacement made it attractive for NASCAR racing. Few were produced in the full size cars and only to qualify for NASCAR acceptance at the time with the first passenger cars equipped with them in '63. However Shelby put them in the Cobra in about '67 or '68. Ford advertised the engine was 390 hp with 460 ft/lbs of torque. In real life the engine put out upwards of 500 hp! Today the side oilers are rare collector items. Shelby initially put the K code engine in the Cobra. With excellent horsepower to weight, it won Le Mans in '66.
 
Thank you! Found that cast metal t-stat housing and ordered thanks to your feedback. Cherry picked from your list, and have to watch budgets. Have two other projects in the works also…………yes I’m addicted to Sport Tracs.
I'd take both engines apart, rebuild the one in better shape; be sure to check for valve damage.
Also be sure to renew left+right OilPressurized TimingTensioners & front LeafSpring TimingTensioner.
Specific tricks & tools needed to do that timing rebuild proper; watch all the videos closely.
Do keep us updated with lots of pics as you progress.
 
The X code is a 390 cid engine. Used in the full size Fords, Mecurys and Lincolns in the 60s and some trucks. It was a 2 barrel carb and had good torque. The 4 barrel version (S code) had a 4 barrel carb and made 40 more ft/lbs of torque in stock form. The real stomper of the '60s was the 427 cid engine (W code) side oiler (also available as a top oiler) and was actually 425.98 cid. But Ford called it a 427 to differentiate it from the rivaled Chrysler 426 Hemi. Chevy didn't have a qualm with their the big inch GM engines and also had a 427 and was fuel injected in the Corvette. The Ford 427 side oiler was probably the best of the lot as the later FE 427s were essentially factory racing engines. Introduced in 1958, horse power/torque varied, as it was meant for buses, trucks. However, the ruggedness of the engine and big displacement made it attractive for NASCAR racing. Few were produced in the full size cars and only to qualify for NASCAR acceptance at the time with the first passenger cars equipped with them in '63. However Shelby put them in the Cobra in about '67 or '68. Ford advertised the engine was 390 hp with 460 ft/lbs of torque. In real life the engine put out upwards of 500 hp! Today the side oilers are rare collector items. Shelby initially put the K code engine in the Cobra. With excellent horsepower to weight, it won Le Mans in '66.
4.0L OHV originally used in the earlier Ranger/Explorer and the basis for the 4.0L we have in the ST was also “X”(Truck Line). There was a website for 4.0L Performance that a cam for it and other goodies to make it awesome.
 
My son put a 4.0L push rod V-6 in his Bronco II. He had the performance cam, JB headers, aftermarket rocker arms (reworked stock rockers) and aftermarket heads (I don't remember the brand). Probably other performance up grads I don't know about. I don't know how much, but the engine has lots of power.
 
Ok so the bone yard delivered this “K” engine. Tell me that’s an Explorer K, and tell me why it’s not going to work please?
 

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Ok so the bone yard delivered this “K” engine. Tell me that’s an Explorer K, and tell me why it’s not going to work please?
Once you swap intake and accessories over, it should work, if it’s a good engine from the yard.
 
Once you swap intake and accessories over, it should work, if it’s a good engine from the yard.
Ok thanks! I got concerned when I see the coil pack in the front versus the rear. Yes, top side rebuild and my engine guy said the same thing you did above. Just wanted to make sure and that’s why I enjoy this group.
 
Yep, once new engine is stripped down to the Block+Heads+WaterPump,
should be same as old 2004 Block+Heads+WaterPump, ready for swapping over old accessories.
Take pics before unbolting each item; helps remembering where+how it goes back on.

2001.Ford_Engi.Assy_With_Bala.Shft_2000~2012_4SR_.GIF
 
Yep, once new engine is stripped down to the Block+Heads+WaterPump,
should be same as old 2004 Block+Heads+WaterPump, ready for swapping over old accessories.
Take pics before unbolting each item; helps remembering where+how it goes back on.

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Thanks for the tutorial Dillard000. Will have to learn more about the K as only ever worked on the E before. Appreciate the time taken to explain, and that’s a good looking power plant. Already looking for the next project……….it’s sure better than drugs or chasing women. LOL!!!
 
Yep I also avoid the drugs; legal or otherwise.
Though I do still enjoy "chasing women", at least chasing my wife,
as long as she lets me "catch" her once in a while!
;)
 

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