2004 XLT at the Crossroads

[cadman777]

"Hybrid Electronic Cluster" has to do with the Instrument Cluster.
It communicates with the PCM and PATS (key security system).
To fix the ReadinessTests you have to do a drive cycle.
I don't have time today to look up the codes and see what may be wrong.
Probably tomorrow.
How much of your old engine did you use on your new/used engine?
Injectors?
If not, the injectors may be leaking (my first guess on too rich).
How about sensors?

 

[Larry Holmes]

"Hybrid Electronic Cluster" has to do with the Instrument Cluster.
It communicates with the PCM and PATS (key security system).
To fix the ReadinessTests you have to do a drive cycle.
I don't have time today to look up the codes and see what may be wrong.
Probably tomorrow.
How much of your old engine did you use on your new/used engine?
Injectors?
If not, the injectors may be leaking (my first guess on too rich).
How about sensors?

I did move the known good injectors from the original engine over with new seals. I haven’t done a drive cycle yet because it was idling rough, just a few short drives for parts and to drop it off at the mechanic. I cleared the P2196 with a new purge valve but it was still running so rich with black smoke staining the driveway. I didn’t move the fuel injection pressure sensor but now wishing I had moved the fuel rail with the sensor and regulator at the input end. Thanks for all your feedback!

 

[Pat in RI]

Hi Larry. You might try changing all your 02 sensors and check your manifold to exhaust and block for leaks. Make sure all connectors are free of corrosion. It's a shot in the dark but it might help.

 

[Larry Holmes]

I’m going to retrieve the ST from the garage today and going forward to replace the pressure sensor, the right side tensioner (which was not the last one I installed but the previous one) and perform the necessary drive cycle. The compression on the right cylinders was less than 7 percent loss of the 165 lbs on the left side so I think it’ll be ready for the drive cycle. Then the scanner will be able to complete all of the necessary systems monitor tests.

 

[Larry Holmes]

Hi Larry. You might try changing all your 02 sensors and check your manifold to exhaust and block for leaks. Make sure all connectors are free of corrosion. It's a shot in the dark but it might help.

Pat I only replaced sensor 1 upstream but since all the scans didn’t complete due to lack of the initial drive cycle needed for the new engine installation I didn’t have a complete picture. We’ll see how it turns out when I do. Thanks!

 

[cadman777]

I did move the known good injectors from the original engine over with new seals. I haven’t done a drive cycle yet because it was idling rough, just a few short drives for parts and to drop it off at the mechanic. I cleared the P2196 with a new purge valve but it was still running so rich with black smoke staining the driveway. I didn’t move the fuel injection pressure sensor but now wishing I had moved the fuel rail with the sensor and regulator at the input end. Thanks for all your feedback!

That's good.
But I would have used all my original known-good sensors and all of that on the used engine.
And the 1st thing I would have done is check compression and leak-down on the used engine.
I would also have smoke-tested the intake system and EVAP system.
That would cover a whole lotta potential issues.
If push comes to shove, you can always rebuild your old engine, that is, if it didn't have damaged valves from the bad t-chain cassettes.

 

[Larry Holmes]

That's good.
But I would have used all my original known-good sensors and all of that on the used engine.
And the 1st thing I would have done is check compression and leak-down on the used engine.
I would also have smoke-tested the intake system and EVAP system.
That would cover a whole lotta potential issues.
If push comes to shove, you can always rebuild your old engine, that is, if it didn't have damaged valves from the bad t-chain cassettes.

I don’t have the means to check compression or EVAP in the backyard here but the engine is warranted for 6 months (would have been 5 years if I had installed within 10 days after delivery) and the garage I used afterwards found acceptable compression and no air leaks which cost me $$. I installed the chain tensioner before the rain started but it only cost busted knuckles. The new OEM sensor arrives tomorrow and I will run the initial drive cycle when the roads dry out. We’ll see then how it scans.

 

[cadman777]

I don’t have the means to check compression or EVAP in the backyard here but the engine is warranted for 6 months (would have been 5 years if I had installed within 10 days after delivery) and the garage I used afterwards found acceptable compression and no air leaks which cost me $$. I installed the chain tensioner before the rain started but it only cost busted knuckles. The new OEM sensor arrives tomorrow and I will run the initial drive cycle when the roads dry out. We’ll see then how it scans.

Alright, lotta good decisions that'll add-up in your favor in the end.

P0705: