2007 Ford Explorer sport trac transmission rebuild

[Yoyojoejoes]

Tranny rebuild 5r55e in my 2007 Ford Exploer sport trac V6 4.O 164000 mile ok so here is the story just got my truck and not even 2 mouths after purchase. I park in the drive way every thing was normal except for hard downshift. I come back about 8hr later starts up and runs but won’t engage into any gear except park I do research I think it might be a flow control valve in tranny so that means a rebuild Yay! So being my first time doing this I’ve done hours research and understand most Parts and common flaws ( servo boar and valve body issue) and ready to order parts, but have no idea what brand or type to buy So I’m going to try and rebuild and upgrade all that follows I have a pretty good budget ($1000)

gonna boar the servos for sure ( should I get a used one?)

want to buy a shift kit (does one come with master rebuild kit?)

master rebuild kit ( which brand is best and can last longest)

and a new torque converter( do I even need a new one?)

I’ll drop the pan soon and update on the inside of that and magnet.
Thank you for your time and help

 

[Yoyojoejoes]

Dropped pan no metal shavings at all (weird was expecting some) fluid smells very Burt I’m guessing the clutches are toast and I’m not sure if I need a new torque converter I was told that if there I a bunch o metal in the pan you would defiantly need a new one I’ll do more research to see what the problem was

but i think it was the main pressure control valve

 

[Dan B]

The transmission should be a 5r55S, not E.

I researched the process when I was planning to rebuild the transmission in my 07. You'll either need to buy a case that already has the bores already done or buy the tools to do it yourself. At that time, I had already purchased a reman torque converter, a Superior shift kit (Doesn't come in a rebuild kit but I found it cheap on Rock auto), a new solenoid block, of course a rebuild manual and then I was going to purchase a 'heavy duty' rebuild kit with Raybestos clutches. Sold the truck so I never did the rebuild. There are quite a few threads online to read about this rebuild so you should be fine. I still have the torque converter and manual if you're interested in those.

What did the filter look like?

 

[Yoyojoejoes]

haven't checked the filter yet, but will update tomorrow and yes I would be interested in the torque converter and manual I was initially planning on buying a master rebuild kit from eBay but was wondering if I want improve longevity and shifts and are there any brands to look out for? I'm new to this whole market and not sure where to look to find a good deal and price

 

[Dan B]

I try to get transmission bands or clutches that are name brand, so that is why I was interested in the Raybestos kit which I think is also on eBay.

When I was faced with this, my biggest problem was when you add up the rebuild kit, the case with the bores done or the tools to bore the case with plus the bushings, add in the shift kit, thrust washers, filter, solenoid block, the converter, manual, the alignment tools (I believe there are two alignment tools that you can't skip otherwise you risk damaging the pump & converter) and everything else you might need like oil + your time; a $1500 rebuilt transmission was looking awfully good to go with instead at that point.

There are also many uncertainties such as, you order all your parts and have everything ready to go but you open the transmission and find some burned up gears you'll need to replace, then the added uncertainty when you're all done with it, reinstalled it, filled it with oil and then it doesn't shift correctly or go into reverse because something was done wrong especially if this is your first transmission. Then you're back to the beginning.

Not trying to talk you out of it but if you add it all up and you're only $500 shy of a rebuilt unit, it might just be easier to forgo all the stress and get one that is already done. I've rebuilt many C4 & C6 transmissions so I do have some transmission experience, they're all tedious and need to be done in a very clean environment.

 

[Dan B]

Also, you probably should have checked the fluid level before doing all of this just to be sure that wasn't the issue all along.

 

[Yoyojoejoes]

thank you for the advice and caution, but I'm honestly in the perfect situation to do this. I not working right now and I do have enough money to spend $1500 but I didn't think it could get that expensive. so I have time and money but I just need some guidance and experience (but I always got youtube for that) I did check the fluid it was overfilled by like a quart so i drained it to the bolt level tried again and nothing ( and By the way there was and still isn't a check engine light on this issue so I'm taking out the tranny no matter what to see and learn about this)

Now I have an idea, would it be stupid to take out my tranny and take it apart to look over and diagnose issues then attempt to put it together again before i order any part
in doing this i would better understand the process, and if I dug my self too deep and fail miserably i could just get a reman because I haven't spent it all on parts

 

[EddieS'04]

I’m not sure if I need a new torque converter I was told that if there I a bunch o metal in the pan you would defiantly need a new one I’ll do more research to see what the problem was

If you replace the torque convertor. Go with an aftermarket performance unit. They will braise and weld the fin's to the stator and turbine hub.
That is why the OEM type shreds metal pieces. They are not welded. The weld is why they can standup to a higher stall rpm.
I found out the hard way$$$. 2 oem styleTQ covertors, on a bigblock galaxie with a C-6. I kicked myself for not staying with the T-10 4speed.

 

[Yoyojoejoes]

If you replace the torque convertor. Go with an aftermarket performance unit. They will braise and weld the fin's to the stator and turbine hub.
That is why the OEM type shreds metal pieces. They are not welded. The weld is why they can standup to a higher stall rpm.
I found out the hard way$$$. 2 oem styleTQ covertors, on a bigblock galaxie with a C-6. I kicked myself for not staying with the T-10 4speed.

Thanks event though it is expensive I plan on doing it right and keeping this truck a lot longer so this will really help

 

[Phil Frady]

I try to get transmission bands or clutches that are name brand, so that is why I was interested in the Raybestos kit which I think is also on eBay.

When I was faced with this, my biggest problem was when you add up the rebuild kit, the case with the bores done or the tools to bore the case with plus the bushings, add in the shift kit, thrust washers, filter, solenoid block, the converter, manual, the alignment tools (I believe there are two alignment tools that you can't skip otherwise you risk damaging the pump & converter) and everything else you might need like oil + your time; a $1500 rebuilt transmission was looking awfully good to go with instead at that point.

There are also many uncertainties such as, you order all your parts and have everything ready to go but you open the transmission and find some burned up gears you'll need to replace, then the added uncertainty when you're all done with it, reinstalled it, filled it with oil and then it doesn't shift correctly or go into reverse because something was done wrong especially if this is your first transmission. Then you're back to the beginning.

Not trying to talk you out of it but if you add it all up and you're only $500 shy of a rebuilt unit, it might just be easier to forgo all the stress and get one that is already done. I've rebuilt many C4 & C6 transmissions so I do have some transmission experience, they're all tedious and need to be done in a very clean environment.

My 1st gen was a 5R55E and it cost me $1600 to have a reputable transmission shop rebuild mine, in a couple days. Not to mention you get warranty from a shop unlike the 90ft/90sec warranty from home.

 

[Yoyojoejoes]

So I pulled out the filter drained what I could and found nothing just a little fluid I took a picture in the big hole park and just saw the mesh and nothing else

I never checked a filter before but this is what I came up with

 

[Yoyojoejoes]

My 1st gen was a 5R55E and it cost me $1600 to have a reputable transmission shop rebuild mine, in a couple days. Not to mention you get warranty from a shop unlike the 90ft/90sec warranty from home.

I would take it to a shop, but I don’t have enough experience with them or trust in any of them to get done what I’m paying for, and plus if I am gonna take the easy way out I’ll just buy a reman tranny and install it my self but even then you never know what your paying for. Also most car business I’ve come across in town are just money hungry

 

[Dan B]

You will void the warranty for most, if not all companies, if you install their remanufactured transmission yourself. They want it to be professionally installed.

 

[Yoyojoejoes]

You will void the warranty for most, if not all companies, if you install their remanufactured transmission yourself. They want it to be professionally installed.

Dang! I didn’t know that but that makes sense if I go that route it would be the safest way to go but I don’t want to pay a dude $500 just to do what I can for free

 

[EddieS'04]

My expeirence with local trans shops SUX. I have used alot of them. Always had problems. Even the shop my family always used. Turned out to be jerks. If I ever have to have the Trac fixed. Not sure who or where.
I hope the external extra filter helps. I have cut a few of them open after 6k. I found clutch and band material in the element.
The factory filter is only a felt pad.

 

[Yoyojoejoes]

Noticed the crappy filter when looking into it

I’m gonna try and pull out the tranny this Easter weekend and knowing I’m gonna pull out the drive shaft i might as well give it some new u joints

I wanna take out some of the catalytic converters on the exhaust cause
I’m gonna be taking it out anyway hopefully it can improve the gas mileage

I’ll try and get back to you guys this weekend thank you for your help

 

[Yoyojoejoes]

Ok update I got the tranny out (I’m proud of it) and also the exhaust, drive shaft and starter. I was wondering what i need to check on my transmission to see if there is any massive damage

 

[Yoyojoejoes]

Ok took apart the transmission
And found out what was wrong the Flow Control valve was stuck open and not allowing and engagements and for everything else it seems yo be in better shape than I thought no planetary gears or drums are badly damaged. I’ve looked into servos boars (which are worn) and the bands look ok( haven’t got to reverse band yet) but overall looks good.
I’ve already ordered
AJ1E Superior Solutions servo replacements
And a torque converter and AT Manuel and got a good deal Thanks to Dan B

not sure what shift kit or rebuild kit to get yet

for the shift kit I can’t decide on the Trans go or Superior solutions kit

and for the rebuild kit if I should go with a Raybestos or normal rebuild kit (is Raybestos with it?)

 

[Dan B]

I put this in a PM to you earlier but figured I'd post here too should anyone be following this in the future. Typically when you buy a rebuild kit and they don't identify with specificity a name brand, you're getting generic clutches and bands. When you see them state names like Raybestos, the price will be higher and you'll be getting that name brand in the friction parts. Amazon has raybestos kits, ebay, etc. just make sure whatever kit you're looking at, that it comes with everything that you'll need or want for your situation - some kits don't include steels (if you want new ones), some don't include the reverse bands, some don't have bushings, etc. Nothing worse than being in the middle of a rebuild and discovering that you're missing something that sets you back another few days.

Personally I was planning to go with Raybestos because I know they're good parts. If you aren't towing or beating the hell out of the transmission then you'd be fine with standard generic parts. My biggest problem is that I tell myself, if I'm already spending $250 on a standard kit and Raybestos is $320, what is another $70?

 

[Dan B]

I also highly recommend you bore out and install bushings in the servo bores instead of going the fixsolutions servo route. You have the case out and empty, and now is the time for a correct, permanent repair; contact some transmission shops in the area to find someone who can do it for you, shouldn't cost much. I find the o-ring fix as a temp solution for those who have the wear and don't want to drop the transmission to fix it. You're doing all this work now, do it right.