Alternator Gauge?

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Vegas Sporty

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It this a normal reading of my alternator gauge? I have had intermittent stalling issues in hot weather. I read somewhere that a faulty alternator could cause
sudden stalling issues. It's a 2001 OEM that came with vehicle. It's not driven a lot but have had a few dead batteries over the years. Engine cooling is steady in the middle and shows cooling is fine on a diagnostic engine reader. No codes being kicked out by computer. I'm beginning to lean in direction of a intermittently failing alternator. Reasoning the engine runs off the current from alternator and if it's failing it would cause a sudden engine failure. Once it dies it will start up again. As for things done over the years. Any thoughts ?
fuel pump (twice)
fuel filter
Coil
distributor cap
plug wires
wrapped fuel line with insulation
ECU
cleaned ground cables various connection areas
EGR
crank sensor and connector
 

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DILLARD000

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Do NOT trust the pseudo VoltMeter\Gauge in the InstrumentCluster;
it's little more than an ON\OFF indicator & near worthless for troubleshooting!!!
Read Alternator\Battery Voltage using a trusted MultiMeter or via the OBD2 port using a Scanner.
Voltage at Battery terminals should be 12.3v or better engine shutoff & 13.5v~14.5v engine running.
First thing, check that all Battery+Alternator terminals & associated cable connections are clean & tight?
If your Battery is 4yrs or older, it's questionable?
If your Battery terminals are still FactoryOE, replace them with quality HeavyDuty Truck\Marine versions?
 

Vegas Sporty

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So I checked my cables and some time ago re-routed my alternator cable over the engine instead of threw against the front. Battery is only a year old and turns over good. I did change the crankshaft sensor as mentioned above and thus far no problems. If it begins again I'll be back..... Thanks!
 

Vegas Sporty

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Well I'm back....:(

Took for another spin today about 10 miles with outside temp at 112. It started the stalling issue again so the crank sensor wasn't the silver bullet. I managed to get it home so in the driveway with it sputtering and coughing I checked the cables with rubber gloves on hoping for something was lose but it continues to go through this idle and almost die cycles. If in drive with A/C on it will not recover and I'm pulling off road to restart which it does just fine. I did replace the idle control valve some time ago. Watching the engine cycling through this issue with the hood up I noticed it seems to struggle with the A/C clutch engaging. Once the engine begins to struggle it disengages the clutch to try to recover. Using accelerator pedal trying to recover nothing happens. It is not showing any signs of overheating meaning the smells and the gauge is in the middle. I thought I read somewhere the idle control valve needs calibrated? I have also replaced the vacuum hoses that trail around the engine. Well back to drawing board. Any thoughts appreciated....
 

DILLARD000

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I'd keep the ac off until you're able to establish a stable idle at 700-800rpms warmed up.
 

DILLARD000

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Do you have an OBD2 scanner to check for trouble codes & monitor Temps or other sensors while driving?
 

Len Jorgenson

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The alternator in my 2003 failed a few months ago while I was driving. Shortly after failing, as the battery died, the instrument cluster went wonky. Shortly after that, the engine died. Towed it home, replaced the alternator, and it’s been as good as gold since.
Replace your alternator. If it doesn’t fix your problem, you can at least cross this off the list. It’s due to fail soon if it hasn’t already.
 

DILLARD000

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The alternator in my 2003 failed a few months ago while I was driving. Shortly after failing, as the battery died, the instrument cluster went wonky. Shortly after that, the engine died. Towed it home, replaced the alternator, and it’s been as good as gold since.
Replace your alternator. If it doesn’t fix your problem, you can at least cross this off the list. It’s due to fail soon if it hasn’t already.
Does your ExST have the older cluster or the HEC Cluster?
 

Evox

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Yes I'm going to connect and try to duplicate the problem. Thanks

Just read the codes. You don't have to duplicate the problem. The codes will remain in PCM until you clear them. Write down all the codes and post them here.
 

DILLARD000

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Not sure, DILLARD. Busy with other things at the moment - is there a quick way to tell the difference?
Older Cluster are simpler & not mated to the PCM, meaning they can be swapped easily.
Newer HEC Clusters are mated\married to the PCM, meaning not easily swapped; these have text displays.

2001~2003 ExST PreHEC InstrumentCluster


2004~2010 ExST HEC InstrumentCluster
 

JC2008SportTrac

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I have a 2006 Explorer XLT, and a 2008 Sport Trac. I was just fighting charging issues on the '06. I bought it only (both of them, actually) about 1000-1500 miles ago.

The '06 was fine all the way around. Drove it on a 700-mile round trip, no problem. Then, all of a sudden, my girlfriend that was driving it said that the display went wonky, then dead. That tells me dead battery (or charging issues).

I swapped to a new battery, then all was good, for about 30 miles. Then she said the display was being wonky. So that tells me it's more than battery (which the old one was dead), but charging issues.

So, I check cables, etc., and all is visually fine. So, I think alternator.

Bought first alternator from Auto-Zone, and they gave me the wrong one (won't fit on an '06 Explorer 4.0 V6). Took it back, and swapped for another new (not rebuilt) alternator for this truck. Swapped it on, and did all of the testing for output and at battery, etc., to see what we were reading. I was getting 12.4 or so with all testing, engine on or off. That tells me, good battery, still no output from alternator.

I was beginning to wonder if I had a fuse problem, or a hard-parts (alternator) problem. Took the alternator to another parts store, they tested it (same as I had, but off the vehicle), and no output. So, I was given a BRAND NEW part, that didn't work at all.

Went back to the parts store, told them about it, and they sent another brand-new alternator to me. I took THAT one to have it checked at a different auto-parts store. They tested the (now, second, brand-new) alternator, and THIS one showed proper voltage output.

I took the, now third, new (not remanufactured) alternator back home, put it on, and tested everything with the multimeter.

I now have 12.6 or so volts at battery, 14.2 at idle (so alternator is now working), 13.8 or so at idle with everything turned on, and 14.3 or so at 1500 RPM. So, alternator now working, battery is brand-new and awesome, and after all that bullcrud of bad brand-new parts at the parts store being bad, I think I should be 100% cool with the charging system.

WRONG! WRONG!!! I don't know what the deal is now, but the 'battery' light still comes on every time we turn on the vehicle. And we can clear the 'code', and it'll come on again in about 15 miles, or about 10 minutes (haven't figured out if it's time or distance-related). I KNOW that the batter and alternator are now fine; I'd drive it anywhere without fear of it having charging issues. But I have NO idea why the stupid 'battery' light keep coming on, now.

Anyone have any suggestions at this point? The pulleys are all aligned, and the tensioner pulley is moving a bit more than I'd think it should, under normal conditions (everything is still in line, but it's moving a bit, which I don't think it should if all pulleys are golden).

I'm open to all suggestions. The '06 4.0 V6 has 130K'ish miles on it. Do the harmonic balancers go out on these things? That's about the only thing I could figure that'd cause any wobble (and, thus, play in the tensioner pulley) that I can think of. That, or maybe the tensioners, themselves, are only good for 125K miles.?

Thanks for any suggestions you can provide!
 

EddieS'04

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I thought I read somewhere the idle control valve needs calibrated?
I have had fairly new IAC go bad on a few other Ford products, not my Trac. The ones that did were from Auto-Zone. Mom's 4.6 Mercury. Auto-Zone was the only parts store, close by. Got 2 before getting a good one.
What I have done for calibration, is. Disconect battery neg, for at least 10 minutes. While replacing the IAC, while motor is cold. Reconnect battery, start motor let it learn the idle until motor is at full operating temp. That has usually cured the idle, if the IAC is good.
 

Len Jorgenson

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Older Cluster are simpler & not mated to the PCM, meaning they can be swapped easily.
Newer HEC Clusters are mated\married to the PCM, meaning not easily swapped; these have text displays.

2001~2003 ExST PreHEC InstrumentCluster


2004~2010 ExST HEC InstrumentCluster
Thanks DILLARD. I have the pre-HEC cluster. Everything returned to normal after I installed the new alternator.
 

Vegas Sporty

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Just read the codes. You don't have to duplicate the problem. The codes will remain in PCM until you clear them. Write down all the codes and post them here.
So connected the scanner and initially came up with these codes first.

P0015(93)
P00123
P0301
P1693
P1504

I say "first" because on a connection issue with my IPad I reconnected with my Iphone and the only code showing was P1504. I reconnected with my Ipad and it to showed only one code P1504. I included
IMG_0862.jpg
IMG_0861.jpg
IMG_0860.jpg
IMG_0859.jpg
some pics of other other readings it was showing as well. I have replaced the IAC before however does it need to be calibrated? I saw a video of resetting the throttle body and wonder if everything is fighting against each other and causing a stalling issue when engine is under more of a demand? Again grasping for straws...
 

Evox

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The cheapest and easiest thing you could try is to do this.

Disconnect your battery overnight. Or disconnect your battery, and turn on your headlights. I know that sounds crazy because, of course the lights actually won't come on, but what your doing is draining all the capacitors in your truck's memory.

After 10 minutes or so, reconnect your battery start your truck, and let it idle for 10 minutes. Your PCM will have to relearn where everything is, so it might be rough at first.

After you let it idle for a few minutes, with the truck in park or neutral, run your engine up to around 3000 RPM and hold it there for two or three minutes. Again, things might sound a bit rougher than normal. Your PCM is learning its values again. After a few minutes of doing that, turn on your AC to the max and run your engine up to 3000 RPM for a couple of minutes. If that all goes ok then go for a short drive.

I'd do that before digging deeper.
 

DILLARD000

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Sounds stupid simple; check IACValve connection+harness for a broken wire or bad insulation?
Before attempting to "calibrate" the IACValve,
best get other bugs worked out & have a smooth running engine at warm idle & at speed.
More info on IACValve at
2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.AirN_IACV_Ford.1L5e-9f715-ab_PicA.GIF
 
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Todd Z

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Clean the IAC before you replace it....
Also when it dies are you just cruising?
Sounds like an over heat from a faulty injector, Bad fuel pump or electrical connection that gets hot, is corroded or something along those lines..
your a 2001 so no FPDM or das cluster common issues....
 

Vegas Sporty

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Sounds stupid simple; check IACValve connection+harness for a broken wire or bad insulation?
Before attempting to "calibrate" the IACValve,
best get other bugs worked out & have a smooth running engine at warm idle & at speed.
More info on IACValve at
View attachment 2035
That's the reason I'm not really leaning towards the IAC. The idle is fine in traffic with A/C on or off. However when I pull off from a stop it accelerates for a second or two then begins to stubble. Pushing on the accelerator makes no difference it just keeps stumbling and I have to pull off. Sometimes it dies and other times I turn it off and restart which it does fire right up as if nothing happened. One characteristic is that it's does it during driving it in very warm weather and in traffic stop and go.
 
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