Alternator Gauge?

[DILLARD000]

Intermittent gremlins are tough to troubleshoot. Ditto what ToddZ says above, could be any of several things..

 

[Vegas Sporty]

Intermittent gremlins are tough to troubleshoot. Ditto what ToddZ says above, could be any of several things..

Going to clean
IAC, Throttle Body and reset the computer so to relearn parameters from square one. Hopefully this works well see...... If not.... onto the next step. Thanks for inputs.....

 

[Evox]

Sounds like a plan.

 

[Evox]

I found this video regarding resetting the PCM's parameters. It's different than I suggested on the first page; I'm sure there are a number of ways to do it.

 

[Vegas Sporty]

Ok latest up date 7/26/21 11:24am

So replaced Throttle Position Sensor (DY968)
Cleaned connections
Removed Throttle body and thoroughly cleaned with body cleaner
Replaced rubber gasket between intake manifold and throttle body (1L2Z9E936BA)
Removed and cleaned Mass Flow Sensor and cleaned connections
Installed a new factory air filter
Added Liqui-Moly fuel injection cleaner to tank
Removed and cleaned ICA and cleaned connections
Erased ECU by jumper cable
Disconnected IAC and reset base idle 650 RPM
Erased ECU again with jumper cable
Re-started with IAC connected.

Drove around and no stalling issues yet........
All seems good with no symptoms or engine light. Idle is good and tested with in drive with A/C on and RPM is functioning as it should with assistance of IAC. However I did notice running a pass through the codes and see if it's clear but I noticed something strange with oxygen sensor 2 bank short

term is registering N/A %. It does show voltage but I don't know what's normal of is it not functioning properly? Bank1 short term fuel trim is -0.78% and 0.07 volts. Don't know what's normal or is this a relearning faze the ECU has to relearn?

 

[DILLARD000]

Downstream OxygenSensors (Sensor2 either side) only used to monitor CatConvertor,
not used for ClosedLoop fuel trim.
So N/A% for Fuel Trim due to that Sensor2 seems appropriate.
OxygenSensor signals should alternate between 0.1v & 0.9v.
Rear downstream Sensor2 signals won't display until after warmup
& are usually slower alternating than the upstream Sensor1 signals.

Seems you're making progress getting the gremlins squashed.
Steady idling RPM should be 650~750, depending on whether it's in PARK\DRIVE & if AC is OFF\ON.
So you're looking better.

 

[JC2008SportTrac]

Adding to my post above:

Two days after getting my '08 back from having the plugs and coil packs changed (Thank you, Brian!), I was driving home, and my cluster went DEAD. I guess they go into some 'limp' mode when they're running off battery-power-only. That's a good thing, from Ford.

So, I checked the batter - battery fine. BUT, only fine, in that it's ready 12.something with the car on. It SHOULD be reading 14.something+, while running. So, bad alternator.

The alternator on the V8 is a LITTLE more involved a swap than it is on the V6. But only slightly. I just swapped 3 alternators on the V-6 ('06) to get it to work. By-gosh, I wasn't going to pay someone else to do this job, if I could, reasonably do it.

Well, I did it. It requires the removal of the throttle body, which isn't required on the V-6. But short of that, it's really the same procedure. Oh, the only BIG difference is, it requires a 1/2" socket (to move the idler pulley), where the V-6 took a 3/8'ths. That DID require me to have to go buy a 1/2" drive socket (well, I wanted to buy a 1/2" drive socket, but all the stupid parts store had was a 1/2" pry-bar, but that did the trick). So, if you have the same 8MM, 10MM, 13MM, etc sockets, and a 1/2 pry bar (to loosen the idler pulley), you, too, can swap the alternator on a Gen2, V-8 ST.