Jim Burger
Member
Since these lights will have to be grounded, I soldered ground wires to the sides, a drilled hole and a self tapping screw will also work.
I then drilled 1-!/4 “ holes with a hole saw into the cladding, 8†back from front support and 7†forward of rear support. Both holes are approx. 1-1/2†from inner edge of cladding.
I then ran the ground wires up thru the drilled holes and connected them together attaching a single wire with a stacon eyelet to the rear chassis mounting bolt.
Next run both power wires up thru the drilled holes, connect together and feed a single wire up thru the grommet under the rear door sill plate. I used a punch to put a small hole in the grommet and fed the wire thru it, if you just run the wire under the edge of the grommet there is a risk of the raw sheet metal edge cutting the wire over time. Connect this to the pink and black wire, there is more than one so use a probe to find the correct one. Also there are suitable wires under both sill plates so it is not necessary to run a wire across from one side to the other. I used a T-tap splice here to be able to unplug if necessary.
Now it is a simple matter of snapping the lights into the holes, you may have to adjust the prongs a little since they were designed for sheet metal and not the thick cladding.
Push all wiring where it will stay hidden up under the cladding and out of harms way. Another tip is to use a product called liquid tape on all connections and coat the back side of the socket where the wire enters it. It is available at auto supply stores.
Lights shine on both steps and ground but can’t be seen themselves. They are much brighter than picture shows.
Oh yeah, my baby.
I then drilled 1-!/4 “ holes with a hole saw into the cladding, 8†back from front support and 7†forward of rear support. Both holes are approx. 1-1/2†from inner edge of cladding.
I then ran the ground wires up thru the drilled holes and connected them together attaching a single wire with a stacon eyelet to the rear chassis mounting bolt.
Next run both power wires up thru the drilled holes, connect together and feed a single wire up thru the grommet under the rear door sill plate. I used a punch to put a small hole in the grommet and fed the wire thru it, if you just run the wire under the edge of the grommet there is a risk of the raw sheet metal edge cutting the wire over time. Connect this to the pink and black wire, there is more than one so use a probe to find the correct one. Also there are suitable wires under both sill plates so it is not necessary to run a wire across from one side to the other. I used a T-tap splice here to be able to unplug if necessary.
Now it is a simple matter of snapping the lights into the holes, you may have to adjust the prongs a little since they were designed for sheet metal and not the thick cladding.
Push all wiring where it will stay hidden up under the cladding and out of harms way. Another tip is to use a product called liquid tape on all connections and coat the back side of the socket where the wire enters it. It is available at auto supply stores.
Lights shine on both steps and ground but can’t be seen themselves. They are much brighter than picture shows.
Oh yeah, my baby.
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