Anyone installed a waterpump on an outboard boat motor?

[Tom Schindler]

I have a 1983 Force 85 HP boat motor on our Bayliner Capri boat. We had the stator shor out and we replaced it. We had a few glitches, but I got it working. Had to rebild some of the wiring for the ignition system, but it is working as good as new. When we tried to run the engine, we couldn't get the cooling system to pull any water through it. We have a set of those ear muffs to connect to a garden hose but still couldn't get any water to run through the system.



Here are some details...



We got the boat used from some guy my brother knows. We got it for free. He claims he paid someone to replace the pump. This guy is always getting screwed by people he thinks are friends, so just because they said they changed the pump does not mean it was really changed.



During some research, I found a listing for a thermostat for that motor, but the repair manual says nothing about a thermostat. Can anyone confirm that there is or isn't a thermostat in that motor?



I don't know much about boats and boat motors, but I have read the repair manual once today and I will read it a few more times to learn as much about it as I can. I know and understand the ignition system now.



Anyone know anything about this motor and what could be the problem?



Thanks everyone in advance for any and all help.





Tom

 

[Kevin Palmer]

You do have a t-stat and in some cases two. One on each cylinder head. Also, as a general rule, one of the t-stats will have a wire going to it for both a temp sensor and for other info for the brain (ECM) of the motor.



With the muffs and having pressurized water, even if the pump was bad, you will normally get water thru the system. Not a good flow, but water or steam should come out the exhaust.



If you do replace the water pump, pack the fins with a white lithium grease. That will lubricate the impeller until water gets to it, (which cools and lubricates the impeller).



They sell some now that can be run drive for a substantial amount of time. Normally run about twice as much. But worth every penny when you start the motor out of the water by accident...

 

[Tom Schindler]

This motor is a 3 cylinder 2 stroke engine.





Tom

 

[Kevin Palmer]

Ok, then the t-stat is normally on the upper cylinder. Normally very easy to see as it bumps out on the head a bit and is removable with minor work. The head will not need to be removed to do the job.

 

[Tom Schindler]

I think I know exactly where you are talking about. From my memory, the thermostat is right above the #1 spark plug. I am guessing after 23 years, it might need changed. Maybe that is why I am not getting any water in the system. Maybe it is stuck shut.



I wonder why the repair manual says nothing about a thermostat.





Tom

 

[Kevin Palmer]

They are prone to failure due to water pump failure. The cylinder heats up, (no water flow) and it literally melts the t-stat. You will normally find that if you need a stat, you need a water pump as the stat failed due to the pump failure.

 

[Wes Davis]

I am currently shopping for a boat and have been to every website I could find to learn about engine maintenance. Check the water inlets for blockage, maybe insect nest. Like Coastie says a hose should have forced water through the system even with impeller failure. I visited one website that ran a test on impellers showing what can and will immediately happen to them if you crank the engine over dry. The wear is immediate and excessive. I guess it is common for boat owners to kick the engine over before going down the ramp just to test the batteries and see if it will fire. Apparently this is extremely bad for the impeller and will lead to immediate reduction in flow and failure will soon follow. The site recommended only starting the engine like it was designed for, in the water. I watched a tv show 'Ship Shape TV' on how to change the impeller. It did not appear difficult and with standard tools. Another immediate maintenance issue that I have learned from my searches is to check the lower unit gear oil frequently. There are many seals that can fail. Apparently a common mistake is for the 'O' rings on the fill and drain plugs to get lost from the last guy who didn'y know what he was doing. Also the 'O' ring will frequently stick in the threaded hole and people inadvertently think its missing and put a new 'O' ring on the plug. Now the ring is doubled up and this means a leak. Low oil or water in the oil and it will burn up, leave you bobbing in the water and cost you about a $1000.00 for a rebuild. I am preparing to purchase my new to me used boat and am nervous and excited about my new tinker with toy.

 

[Dominoelover thegamenotthepizza]

Here is a link (just for reference) on the water pump replacement. This is what I used to guide me in replacing my water pump on my Mariner 135hp outboard. I also replaced both my thermostats. Just remove the cover, pull out the old one and clean inside so its smooth and then replace with a new one.

They recommend replacing the water pump every two years or more often if it is NOT used very much. The rubber blades get stuck to the plastic housing. So no matter what the guy said about when it was replaced, just replace it to be safe.

One other thing that happen's is the drain tube where the water pumps out gets clogged. Just use a pipe cleaner or small wire and stick it in and out while the boat is running with the ear muffs on.