John Zuber
Active Member
Last weekend I attempted to replace the lower ball joints and upper ball joint assembly. Some lessons learned:
I had to use a special tool to disconnect the spindle/knuckle assembly from the lower ball joint stud. Even had to use a C-clamp at the top of the claw tool and probably maxed out the capability of the tool. Very difficult to pop loose. This is not the ball joint removal/install kit.
Pushing out the old lower ball joints from the lower suspension assembly was not too bad, but it was difficult pressing in the new ones. Got about half-way...then pressed them back out, cleaned the receiving assembly and re-installed using a light film of oil. I don't plan on ever doing this again. Again, thought I would break the tool...or my arms. Yes, the new ones were the correct size, but they had raised edges that would slightly cut into the lower assembly as they were pressed in.
Went to remove the upper ball joint/assembly and found that on the driver side the front bolt going through the bushing would not slide all the way out. There are two steel fuel lines in the way of the bolt head. Since the bolt head has a large welded washer, it would not pass by the fuel lines. Crud...but the uppers seemed to still be ok. Thank Ford..great placement.
Passenger upper assembly removed ok, but my new part didn't have the same outside metal bushings as the OEM...and thus did not fit tight. Re-installed the OEM...and again it still seemed ok. Thanks MOOG
Installed a Camber/cam adjustment set on passenger side...but because the driver side bolt would not remove, I couldn't use the other kit set that I had purchased.
Was not pleased with the MOOG upper assemblies purchased from RockAuto. One was missing a grease nipple and the bushing assembly was incorrect. I wasn't able to install the other...and it was a sealed unit. Sent them back...and RockAuto has been easy to deal with, but I probably won't be ordering on-line again. Too much trouble.
That was a full day of difficult work...even with using a heavy duty ball joint tool kit from Advance Auto.
I had to use a special tool to disconnect the spindle/knuckle assembly from the lower ball joint stud. Even had to use a C-clamp at the top of the claw tool and probably maxed out the capability of the tool. Very difficult to pop loose. This is not the ball joint removal/install kit.
Pushing out the old lower ball joints from the lower suspension assembly was not too bad, but it was difficult pressing in the new ones. Got about half-way...then pressed them back out, cleaned the receiving assembly and re-installed using a light film of oil. I don't plan on ever doing this again. Again, thought I would break the tool...or my arms. Yes, the new ones were the correct size, but they had raised edges that would slightly cut into the lower assembly as they were pressed in.
Went to remove the upper ball joint/assembly and found that on the driver side the front bolt going through the bushing would not slide all the way out. There are two steel fuel lines in the way of the bolt head. Since the bolt head has a large welded washer, it would not pass by the fuel lines. Crud...but the uppers seemed to still be ok. Thank Ford..great placement.
Passenger upper assembly removed ok, but my new part didn't have the same outside metal bushings as the OEM...and thus did not fit tight. Re-installed the OEM...and again it still seemed ok. Thanks MOOG
Installed a Camber/cam adjustment set on passenger side...but because the driver side bolt would not remove, I couldn't use the other kit set that I had purchased.
Was not pleased with the MOOG upper assemblies purchased from RockAuto. One was missing a grease nipple and the bushing assembly was incorrect. I wasn't able to install the other...and it was a sealed unit. Sent them back...and RockAuto has been easy to deal with, but I probably won't be ordering on-line again. Too much trouble.
That was a full day of difficult work...even with using a heavy duty ball joint tool kit from Advance Auto.
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