Battery Problem

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The yellow top Optima is more of a deep cycle battery. It is perfect for vehicles with accessories that can drain a battery more than usual. Winches, refrigerators and huge stereo systems played without the engine running are examples where a yellow top is the better choice.

When I used the yellow top battery that is now in my ST on the forklift, I used a charger with an AGM (absorbed glass mat) setting to optimize the charge rate and capacity since it was always used in a deep cycle application and it benefited from the smart monitoring of the charge.

The red top Optima is the standard choice for vehicles without high current drain accessories used with the engine turned off.

Optima sells their batteries for automotive use, including the necessary pucks to adapt to various vehicles. So there should be no issue with charging them in a Sport Trac.
 
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That might be the recommendation but I have four Yellow Tops and three of them are connected to standard Battery Tender brand trickle chargers as we speak. The one in my Kubota diesel tractor is at least ten years old. When the Motorcraft AGM in my '18 F-150 died a premature death last year under warranty I replaced it with the Yellow Top that I had in my '68 Cougar and put the new Motorcraft battery in the Cougar. Sorry old girl but I needed something more reliable in my DD.

Here's a photo of the one in my '75 Bronco with the 'Tender clips attached.

IMG_4685.jpg
 
Years ago I read an article about optima chargers. Something about internal resistance they required a special float charger. Or you could burn it up. Dont know if the same is true now. Read this over 10yrs ago.
 
The yellow top Optima is more of a deep cycle battery. It is perfect for vehicles with accessories that can drain a battery more than usual. Winches, refrigerators and huge stereo systems played without the engine running are examples where a yellow top is the better choice.

When I used the yellow top battery that is now in my ST on the forklift, I used a charger with an AGM (absorbed glass mat) setting to optimize the charge rate and capacity since it was always used in a deep cycle application and it benefited from the smart monitoring of the charge.

The red top Optima is the standard choice for vehicles without high current drain accessories used with the engine turned off.

Optima sells their batteries for automotive use, including the necessary pucks to adapt to various vehicles. So there should be no issue with charging them in a Sport Trac.
Your post is exactly why I bought the yellow tow. Heavy use off road. Nothing like a dead battery in the desert and no bars in the phone.
We all have our reasons and needs for what we buy. Glad you used yours for your specific application and needs. Thanks for sharing.
 
The yellow top Optima is more of a deep cycle battery. It is perfect for vehicles with accessories that can drain a battery more than usual. Winches, refrigerators and huge stereo systems played without the engine running are examples where a yellow top is the better choice.

When I used the yellow top battery that is now in my ST on the forklift, I used a charger with an AGM (absorbed glass mat) setting to optimize the charge rate and capacity since it was always used in a deep cycle application and it benefited from the smart monitoring of the charge.

The red top Optima is the standard choice for vehicles without high current drain accessories used with the engine turned off.

Optima sells their batteries for automotive use, including the necessary pucks to adapt to various vehicles. So there should be no issue with charging them in a Sport Trac.
Your post is exactly why I bought the yellow tow. Heavy use off road. Nothing like a dead battery in the desert and no bars in the phone.
We all have our reasons and needs for what we buy. Glad you used yours for your specific application and needs. Thanks for sharing.
My comment in charging was from a completely dead battery being charged back to life.
Glad your AGM battery works great for you.
I had no problems with my STA charging the yellow Optima for the 5+ years mine was in my truck. Its an excellent battery. I was happy with it powering my amp & stereo when camping with no problem and other needs as well.
 
Your post is exactly why I bought the yellow tow. Heavy use off road. Nothing like a dead battery in the desert and no bars in the phone.
We all have our reasons and needs for what we buy. Glad you used yours for your specific application and needs. Thanks for sharing.
My comment in charging was from a completely dead battery being charged back to life.
Glad your AGM battery works great for you.
I had no problems with my STA charging the yellow Optima for the 5+ years mine was in my truck. Its an excellent battery. I was happy with it powering my amp & stereo when camping with no problem and other needs as well.
Same here. I have yet to figure out how to kill a yellow top but I did have a red top die in my '99 Mustang Cobra several years ago. It has a yellow top now. Well worth the extra cost since they will outlast most other batteries and they are super reliable.
 
Hope I'm not jinxing myself, but my DieHard P-2 Group 65 AGM made by EnerSys is still going strong after installing it 12/11/09. @Todd Z recommended it back then, but I never expected anything close to this longevity. Unfortunately Sears discontinued these long ago. Hopefully there's something comparable when the time comes to replace it. 930CCA with 135 minute reserve.
Im still running the diehards form Advance auto,,,, they are back baby !!
 
Hope I'm not jinxing myself, but my DieHard Platinum P-2 Group 65 AGM made by EnerSys is still going strong since 12/18/09. @Todd Z recommended it back then, but I never expected anything close to this longevity. Unfortunately Sears discontinued these long ago. Hopefully there's something comparable when the time comes to replace it. 930CCA with 135 minute reserve.
Yes, my previous battery was a DieHard Platinum and I loved it. It would crank the V8 over noticeably faster than the stock FORD battery. Mine did quit and there are no Sears in my area so I had AAA put one of theirs in but paid a core charge so I could keep the DieHard Platinum since it was till in warranty. I found a Sears still open in another town a couple hours from me and drove up with my original receipt with the battery. They said it was bad and offered to replace it with a different DieHard gold and refund the difference. I told them that since there are no Sears in my area I had already replaced the battery so they offered me full credit which I used to buy 2 Diehards ........one for my 72 Cutlass 442 and the other for my 1976 Corvette. That worked since both batteries were getting old. At any rate I'd like to find something to put into my Sport Tac similar to the DieHard Platinum.

I hope there is nothing wrong with the alternator since I have replaced it twice (yup, first one bad) and it is a PITA as far as I'm concerned. I thought my 2007 had a setup built in to shut things down on a drain but maybe that was to shut lights off if they are draining. My Sport Trac has only 80,000 original miles on it.

OLE442
 
I only run AGM too.... why you ask ??? Look under the battery, STUPID ford allows the battery acid to drip right ON THE FRAME AND WIRING UNDER IT !!!!! Yup, wait till the electrical problems start...
 
I like my Sport Trac.........
The tranny bump was understandable but the problems many on her have experienced with tranny failure is BS IMO! Mine is still working but I only have 80,000 pampered miles on it.
I have had the idiotic 2 piece spark plugs FORD put in these replaced by the dealer at my cost. I watched my radiator for years and went longer than most and finally got a leak and had to replace it.
Early on, I had an issue (under warranty) with overheating and the few times it I happened I was watching so it never got too hot. Took it to FORD and they said they couldn't get it to do it so they couldn't fix it. Lucky I listened to forum members who said "thermostat" so I told the dealer to replace the stat. He said FORD won't pay for it and I said I don't care, I have to do something. The new stat fixed it.
I had something with the shifter repaired early on as a preventative for a known problem.
There are many other things I've fixed myself of that irritate me. I like the Sport Trac concept but there are things on this vehicle that should not be problems on a new car.
Like Todd said about the battery & wiring placement.....STUPID FORD issues anymore.
Take care,
OLE442
 
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Put Odyssey AGM batteries in my 2015 F150 K/R,
2017 F150 K/R,
and just tonight put a new Odyssey AGM in our 2008 Sport Trac.

Hope they hold up !!!
 
I always ran the Motocraft in my 04 ST and they outlasted the warranty which is great for south Texas but my recent replacement was the Duracell Ultra Gold. My 2000 Harley FXDL and the 02 Boxster are both running Odessey AGMs and I have no complaints on either.
 
I went with a NAPA AGM The Legend Premium battery this last time around on my ST and have been totally pleased with it since. Course, its only been a few months, but even on the coldest New England mornings this baby started right up every time.
 
Well, I bought a charger that is supposed to work with 12 volt AGM as well as standard batteries and has different settings. From what I see the battery appears to be OK but is charging! I'm not as tech savvy as most of you guys but I've been dinking around with this issue for at least 6 months and it seems worse. I looked in the tray when I pulled the battery out and saw no moisture. It doesn't appear the battery is leaking acid. Any ideas on what to check next? Any ideas what to do when I put the battery back in to prevent acid leaking in the future. My next battery will be a Die Hard Platinum. I was happy with the first one I had but Sears left our area. I want to keep the Sport Trac until I leave this earth but some things about it have gotten to me. When it runs, it's fun and useful. And it isn't totally my main driver. Below is a photo of what the charger showed when I hooked it up tonight:


Battery check on 3.11.2022.jpg
 
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The weird thing it’s at 14.1 volts for a 12 volt battery but is only 75 % charged?? I hooked it up this morning and it’s 14.8 volts at 75 %! I’m no electrical wizard but that seems odd?

Even after a couple hours of charging, it doesn’t go above 75 %??? Odd IMO!
 
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it’s the newer generations of us, who is teaching troubleshooting these days? It’s all about shotgun troubleshooting (blasting parts everywhere). I agree batteries are nothing like they used to be either, but there must be a short somewhere killing the batteries. Someone explained earlier that the lead acid batteries are toast when they are drained. Its time to troubleshooting the wiring to find the short/draw. Fortunately for me I do not have this problem on my STA yet, but I have found it on several other vehicles. New battery & solid alternator leaves that there is a short out there.
 
Geez, I just buy the $50 Value battery from Walmart. Original battery lasted eight years, the Value is on its fourth. Batteries are a terrible value for the money IMO. I use the post corrosion protection washers and never have a corrosion issue.
 
Geez, I just buy the $50 Value battery from Walmart. Original battery lasted eight years, the Value is on its fourth. Batteries are a terrible value for the money
I have thought of doing that.
Before Advance Auto switched and replaced their AGM without warranty, for the AGM die hard. For 3 yrs I replaced batteries every winter from them.
First one was acid fill 65, second was AGM 65, third was AGM 65. I went to the store and told them this is my third from them in 3 yrs. The rules had changed, no more warranty after 1 yr.
My diplomatic griping and the records of my purchases. Changed the managers mind.
Now this diehard AGM has made it thru 3 winters and 2 Texas summers.

Odd thing, the AutoZone Gold I had in my '94 Stang. Lasted 8yrs. Then their batteries turned to crap.
 
Now I've got a battery problem, kinda. The other day I go to start my ST and noting. It reads as though the battery is dead. A jump did nothing, bought a 75 amp battery charger, sat the battery on it for 24 hours, still truck acts like battery is dead. Bring battery to place I bought it, their tester shows its 100%. Bring battery home, put it in truck, nothing. I get dash lights and that's it. No clicking when turning ignition and eventually the dead battery icon shows up on the little green led readout on the dash. Anyone have any suggestions? I don't do well with vehicle electrontics and don't have the diagnostic tools to really figure this one out. Going to have to get it towed to a garage and hope they can get it sorted relatively quickly. I hate electrical issues.
 

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