Bed Bolt Removal (PITA Prevention)

[swshawaii]

My four bed bolt heads were showing lot's of corrosion so I decided to clean them up after reading about the nightmares they can create. Torx heads strip easily, and are no fun when they do, especially these M12 bolts. Seems Ford finds it necessary to cover large bolts with ridiculous amounts of blue Loctite, anyone who has replaced body mounts knows this. Using a ratchet with a cheater pipe and a T55 socket, I wanted to remove one at a time since I read they are different sizes, and didn't want the bed shifting since I was alone. Torque spec is 46 ft/lbs but I believe they required at least triple that to remove, and there was NO rust or corrosion on the threads. Two were galled just from loosening. Another concern was the captive u-nuts stripping or breaking. Cleaned the threads with a wire wheel, coated with anti seize, reinstalled. Peace of mind knowing if I ever need to remove the bed it will be easy without cutting hardened and very expensive bolts and u-nuts that cost around $15 each, and only available from Ford. Anyone know if Torx T55 head caps or covers exist?

 

[Yardsale]

Might try a smaller size Allen head cover.



Maybe make them from plastic welding two-part epoxy (cream color) by placing thin plastic on the head and filling the recess and coating the head. This stuff sets-up in minutes. Then it can be removed, the plastic peeled off and shaped with a Dremel.

 

[swshawaii]

Great idea Yardsale, thanks! :supercool:

 

[Richard L]

You could also remove one bolt at a time and get a measurement of the diameter and length and determine the thread pitch (they are probably metric). Once you have that, you can probably fine replacements with either Torque or Allen head bolts in stainless steel, or black oxide finsish. You could also take the bolts and have the heads powder coated In either case you would be smart to use and anti-seize compound as you did with the original bolts.



...Rich

 

[scott degroot]

The bolts are a special stretch bolt that are meant to withstand high forces. They wern't overtightened that's just the way they are designed. By putting anti seize on them you actually prevented the bolts from being torqued properly...not that it really matters but you did take them out to make sure everything was ok and now they are worse off than they were previously. Not tyring to sound like an #[email protected] sayin

 

[EddieS'04]

One of mine has been split, from the torx outward. That way when I bought it. It will most likely have to be cut out. The split will cuase the torx wrench to slip.

I suspect the line worker was too lazy to replace it. QC didnt' care.

 

[swshawaii]

They wern't overtightened that's just the way they are designed.

Wasn't implying they were over tightened, the Loctite just makes loosening them very difficult. Respectfully l1tech, do YOU use anti seize on anything? If yes, what?

 

[scott degroot]

^^^^^



I do use anti-seize on some select itmes. The biggest thing I use it for is to silence squeaky bushings. Other than that I use it on O2 sensors and that is realistically about it. I know there are alot of anti-seize fans here and I don't mean to come across like I'm jumping on you ...because I'm not...I just believe that anti-seize is widely overused but that's just my thinking (I've been told by ALOT of people though that my thought process ain't right...come to think about it I'm not sure how to take that)

 

[swshawaii]

Thanks l1tech for sharing your thoughts. I don't feel singled out, you've just warned against using it many times, especially spark plug threads. If over tightening is the primary reason,

does the belief of reducing the torque by 20% apply? Seems if it was used on parts susceptiible to corrosion, it would prevent future problems, especially aluminum cylinder heads.

 

[Yardsale]

I use anti-seize on spark plugs and lug nuts. That's about it.



My bed bolts screw in to spring clips, so there is binding on the entire bolt length. I don't recall seeing any Loctite. These bolts seem large and heavy duty for the task. I suspect that they are used to increase the resistance to shear forces (put 500+ pounds in the bed against the front and stop suddenly, and the bed may slide and hit the cab).



With regard to fastener torque, the torque that is of interest is the twisting force that results in stretching the fastener (preload) and creating the clamping force that holds the parts together, excluding any thread friction. Thread friction affecting twisting force reduces clamping force (torque specifications partially take material, surface area, finish, etc. in to account for a given application).



If the threads are clean and friction free, there should be no (practical) difference in torque with or without anti-seize. There are cases where lubrication should or should not be used; these should be specified and followed.



Stainless steel fasteners are not a good replacement for all uses. Stainless is weaker and typically has more thread friction that hard steel which can result in less prelaod and clamping force for the same torque. It's pretty, though.

 

[Gavin Allan]

Some good info on bolt strength:

 

[Gavin Allan]

Torque values lubed/dry:

 

[Dean Hedin]

It is a little disappointing that stainless is not as strong as grade 8. But you know what? I don't care. Its strong enough. I busted my knuckles getting the original rusted bolts off my hitch so I could remove & re-paint it. It went back on with stainless hardware.



I use a little grease on my threads, no matter what it is. It's got to come off again some day and chances are that I'll be the one twisting the wrench. I'll put anti-seize on plugs, O2, exhaust bolts, or anything else that sees high temp.