Dana 44 Swap

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In a short answer trying to incorporate a different type of IFS would be alot more work and you still have no way of achieving the most desired attributes: 1. Lift 2. Strength.



Solid axle makes more sense and easier to build.



I do believe I saw a hybrid style IFS axle somewhere and it was bout $10k
 
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FWIW I saw a unique solid axle on one of those TV truck shows. It mounts the differential high (which could fit in the original IRS diff. position), and uses CV joints to drop down to the hubs. It's all solid, but the high pumpkin helps avoid high-centering in the trail. Don't know the price, sorry.

 
That is the axle I was referring too, they built a vehicle on Extreme 4x4 using it. It is a very sweet setup, and is like 10-12k.
 
Hugh said:
Also, the Sport Trac community is unique when talking about lift. When you talk about a lifted Sport Trac, all that really means is somebody did a body lift or shackles and TT, and slightly larger tires. That doesn't really refer to a lifted truck at all, IMO. These are, for the most part, cosmetic changes. So far, my off road capabilities are really only increased over a stock 4x4 ST by a change in tires. That's unacceptable to me.

The only suspension lift kits for late-model Explorers and Rangers are from Superlift and Dixon Brothers. The Superlift basically lowers the mounting points for the front suspension and has lowered knuckles and higher rear springs. Increase in travel is minimal. Dixon Bros is a desert race long-travel coil-over conversion that is wider and replaces most of the front end with stronger parts. It costs a boxcar load of money, to which you still have to add wider fiberglass front fenders and paint. On balance you could probably do a front SAS and sprung-over rear conversion for about what the Dixon Bros kit costs and it would be stronger.
 
The only suspension lift kits for late-model Explorers and Rangers are from Superlift and Dixon Brothers. The Superlift basically lowers the mounting points for the front suspension and has lowered knuckles and higher rear springs. Increase in travel is minimal. Dixon Bros is a desert race long-travel coil-over conversion that is wider and replaces most of the front end with stronger parts. It costs a boxcar load of money, to which you still have to add wider fiberglass front fenders and paint. On balance you could probably do a front SAS and sprung-over rear conversion for about what the Dixon Bros kit costs and it would be stronger.



That is exactly why I want to do a SAS.
 
I have come across this alternative to a full SAS. Comes with a lifetime warranty. Haven't spent much time looking into it yet, but I'm putting it on the list.
 
Linky no worky.

What I have gleaned from other sites and what I have seen over the years is that these axles will work:

76-77 Early Bronco Dana 44. Best choice as it is the correct width, same bolt pattern, and has disc brakes. Downside, they have been out of production for 33 years and pricey as hell when you find one. Earlier Bronco D44's have drum brakes and if you go back too far, Early Early Broncos had D30's.



IH Scout Dana 44. Correct width, later ones have disc brakes. Downside, the bolt pattern is different and been out of production for about 30 years.



Jeep Cherokee (XJ) Dana 30. Upside, correct width and bolt pattern, also cheap and easy to find. Downside, not as strong as a Dana 44 and only marginally better than what you have now.



You can also get a custom axle from Currie or G2 or whoever but they cost a bundle of money.
 
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Thanks Johnny. Great info.



Chad, hadn't gotten that far. Just a recommendation I got from somebody and need to look into it more.
 
Hmm, okay. I wheeled with a guy who did a SAS in his Ranger and he told me it was a Scout axle. Maybe he didn't know what he had.
 

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