Do i even want to know what this will cost?

[blert]

Was hoping it was just my lower oil pan but...
Degreased the top and bottom of the engine this morning (10am). Did not scrub it, just let it soak for 14 minutes. This was at 4pm after a few hours of driving, the equivalent of a few drops.
Options?

 

[swshawaii]

Rear main seal? If so, same here. Mine's been leaking for at least two years. Did an oil change almost a year ago and lost less than one pint. More of an annoyance, especially when it occasionally drips on the cat while moving and I get a whiff of burning oil. Dislike additives, but I tried Rislone RMS concentrate that seemed to reduce the leak by about half. Leaking increased when I drained for an oil change. I just can't see pulling the engine to replace a ten dollar seal. YMMV

EDIT- Correction, I used ATP AT-205, NOT Bar's Leaks/Rislone RMS concentrate with mixed results.

 

[blert]

I have been monitoring this for a long time but just now got around to cleaning it off so I could change the transmission pan. The oily build-up looked like it might have just been a simple pan gasket fix, nope. It doesn't leak enough to leave a stain on the driveway, just gets built up with oily crud.

Don't suppose there might be any merit in taking a torque wrench to those big bolts and giving them a little hug?

 

[DILLARD000]

Make sure your PCV system is in order & pulling vacuum on both ValveCovers;
~ Hose+Tube+PCVValve "Long L" assembly from right side of IntakeManifold throat to rear of left ValveCover.
~ Hose+Tube "Short L" assembly from IntakeAirAccordionTube to right ValveCover.
If any of these PCV vac hoses are leaking, disconnected, removed or "modified"
or if the PCVValve on rear of left ValveCover is gummed up (replace PCVValve if it's several years old),
the CrankCase pressure goes up & oil tends to get pushed past the seals.
Once PCV system is in good order; in this order next try
~ retorq of all bolts on the pan,
~ drop pan & install new gasket,
~ fresh oil change & add ATP#AT-205.ReSeal; only "snake" oil additive I've had luck with.

 

[blert]

Make sure your PCV system is in order & pulling vacuum on both ValveCovers;
~ Hose+Tube+PCVValve "Long L" assembly from right side of IntakeManifold throat to rear of left ValveCover.
~ Hose+Tube "Short L" assembly from IntakeAirAccordionTube to right ValveCover.
If any of these PCV vac hoses are leaking, disconnected, removed or "modified"
or if the PCVValve on rear of left ValveCover is gummed up (replace PCVValve if it's several years old),
the CrankCase pressure goes up & oil tends to get pushed past the seals.
Once PCV system is in good order; in this order next try
~ retorq of all bolts on the pan,
~ drop pan & install new gasket,
~ fresh oil change & add ATP#AT-205.ReSeal; only "snake" oil additive I've had luck with.

Will check PCV bits tomorrow. Thanks.

Wanted to drop the oil pan anyway to check for shrapnel from the timing chain bits. Figure if there are no broken plastic bits in there it should be relatively safe to replace the tensioners.

Not sure if I will put in an additive. The general consensus seems to be they cause more harm in the long run (swelling all seals and potentially causing more leaks elsewhere). True or not? Don't know, but don't think I will take the chance.

 

[Evox]

Mine has some oil weeping from the same place. If it's oil and it's not coming from the valve covers, lower or upper oil pan, it's coming from the rear main seal.

In my case, it's not even enough weeping enough to make it to the floor of the garage or driveway, and certainly not enough to cause me to add oil between oil changes. The only time it bothers me is when I'm under the truck for some reason and see it. I'm OCD about oil leaks.

My engine has over 300,000 miles on the clock, so when the time comes to rebuild the engine or if my timing cassettes ever give out (which I will rebuild the engine), I'll deal with it then. I don't use any additives, but I use high mileage synthetic motor oil, which has additives for the engine seals. The only gaskets I've replaced over the years are my valve cover gaskets, lower oil pan, transmission, and differential. The only ones I've replaced because they were leaking are my oil pan and valve covers, which both developed leaks after 200k miles.

As far as the PCV valve, I replace that about every year or two because it's cheap and easy. But honestly, everyone I've replaced was still good. So I guess I've thrown some money away there. But once upon a time, a wise mechanic told me to do it every year or two as a matter of routine maintenance, so I did. The only way you can know for sure the thing has failed is to take it off the truck and shake it and see if the little ball inside is still moving freely, and once I get it off, I go ahead and put the new one on.

 

[Lester Durst]

The wife's '02 S/T had/has a similar oil leak. After spending some time chasing the source(s) down I found one source to be the o-ring between the oil filter adapter and the engine block. It's real had to see and my 1st thought was that the valve cover was leaking. I found that oil would accumulate on top of the filter (flange). I removed the fender liner to have a better look and after a very good cleaning and a short drive "new" oil could be found on top of the filter.

Seems that the o-ring (which fits into a "square" groove on the adapter has been a problem for Ford that uses that similar adapter on their other engines.