Drill Bits

[LaRue Medlin]

I keep buying cobalt drill bits. They a sharp as hell but dull after a few uses, what is the best type drill bit. I use my sets mostly on metal doors and hinges.

 

[Tom Schindler]

What brand of cobalt bits are you buying?





Tom

 

[LaRue Medlin]

dewalt

 

[LaRue Medlin]

I just went and bought a drill doctor. The reviews are good and maybe I won't have to keep buying expensive bits.





DANG!!!! I bought the wrong model!!!!!!!!!!!!! back to sears

 

[Robert Thomas]

Drill doctor good. Keep bits sharp.

:banana:

 

[Richard L]

LaRue,

I used Titanium coated drill bits for all my LeverLift work and they seemed to last longer than any other bits I tried. They have a gold color to them.



I drilled a lot of mild steel, hard steel rivets and soft aluminum and the aluminum gave me more problems. Aluminum was easy to drill throught but the soft metal would stick to the bit and had to be cleared off or the bit would not drill anything very well.



I used to buy a box of about 30 titanium coated bits at Harbor Freight for about $10 which cam in their own red metal case. It had all the sizes I needed and stayed sharp much longer than other bits I tried, and I did not feel bad if I broke or lost a bit. Cheap and Functional works for me:grin:



I have actually putchased $40 bits that did not work as well.



You could always invest in a Drill Doctor to resharpen the bits when they get dull. Also, some drills perform better in certain metals if they are ground at a different angle. Drill Doctor allows you to grind bits at both 45 and 60 angles.



...Rich

 

[EddieS'04]

Ditto on what RL said about the titanium bits.



RL, I didnt know the drill doctor could grind 2 different angles. That is one reason I have held off. I thought it was single angle.

 

[LaRue Medlin]

Drill Doctor Model 350X Drill Sharpener, Item # DD350X is what I bought to start with. I took it back and got the Drill Doctor Model 750X.

The DD750X shop model is designed for durability and has the flexibility required to sharpen the largest range of dull or broken bits,including split points and masonry bits.

The DD750X also adds increased capacity, sharpening 3/32 to 3/4 bits.

One chuck sharpens all sizes 3/32" -3/4"

Longer jaws hold bit more precisely and jaw guides eliminate jaw twisting on small bits

Push to Stop design on the drill point splitting port will not allow you to over split the bit point

Adjustable material take-off allows user to change the amount of bit material that can be removed to further extend the life of your bits

User replaceable diamond sharpening wheel design for simple replacement

Cast aluminum point angle shuttle for added durability

Metal sharpening tube

Permanent magnet motor produces consistent power, regardless of speed or load

Sharpens High-speed Steel, Carbide, Cobalt, TiN-coated and Masonry bits

Can sharpen 3/32 1/2 reverse-twist (left-hand) drill bits with optional accessory

Custom Point angle sharpening - choose any angle from 115 degree to 140 degrees

Includes professional hard shell carrying case

 

[Todd Z]

Slow and steady wins the race and Coolant.......



Drill to fast, heat and lack of coolant will dull drill bits instantly....



i have the same drill bits from 15 years ago, Never been sharpened...



Todd Z

 

[Richard L]

Todd,

I agree that "Slow and steady wins the race" for making your personal drill bits last, but there is also another saying "Time is Money".



While building LeverLift kits in a production environment, I had to drill hundreds of holes in just a few hours....Thousands of holes in a month. I used jigs to allow me to save time and to drill all the holes accurately and quickly. My labor time was more valuable to me than a few cheap drill bits that maybe only lasted a few weeks or a month at the most.



I'm sure LaRue does not have to drill as many holes per day as I did, but some inexpensive, disposable drill bits, that you don't bother sharpening often fills the need for speed when Time is Money. :grin:



...Rich

 

[LaRue Medlin]

You guys know my main drilling is on locks, which sometimes are on $1000+ doors. Heck, even mobile home doors are expensive these days. A small mistake, I"M BROKE! :cry: Mostly what I am drilling is the back side of the mounting bolts by going through the front of the deadbolt. On door knobs I have top drill though the lock pins, some are brass, some are metal. Dull, cheap bits won't do it for me. I have saved all my dull bits and now will get them back in shape. Thanks for the help.

 

[Gavin Allan]

I sharpen mine by hand when they need it. Eyes are not so good anymore- hard to see the smaller ones (<1/8" or so) to do a decent job. Drill bits are not hard to sharpen once you learn the angles and cutting theory behind it.

 

[Kevin Palmer]

Locks can be VERY hard metal....



The Drill Doctor has worked well for me. Used it for years...