Engine Start Button Help

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Boodrodon Dykes

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I just arrived back from out of town to find my Engine Start Button at my door step. I was ready to install it, and opened it up and it is completly different from other starters. The back has two pins sticking out, and it came with 2 wires (16 awg), they both have end connectors that slide are crimped (sp) and slide onto the pins. on the other end they are stripped for connecting I guess. the white wire fits on the small pin, and the red on the bigger pin. what do I do? What is needed to make it work like the others? thanks in advanced.





Boodro
 
Have you seen the project on it???



http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/StarterButton/StarterButton.htm



Todd Z
 
Yours does not light up or have the ignition source. It's merely an interuptor switch. You probably have to connect one end to the starter wire, and one end to a switched 12v source that comes on with the ignition. I just hooked mine to the cig lighter source, so it's a constant on, for now. The ST still can't be started without the key turned to "ignition on" though.



Anyways, that'd be my guess.
 
The part with "5 pins" (I see 4) is a relay. The relay is able to handle higher amperage than a small switch.

So you need to get a relay....:)
 
Mookie, I don't think that a relay is needed. I believe the stock starter wire is 16ga as well, 14 at most.
 
That's true. Come to think of it, they wouldn't run heavy wire up to the stock ignition switch, either.:wacko::D



I was looking at the project and pointing out that the terminals shown are on a relay. The starter button has two terminals.
 
Yep, the 4 pin device is a 30 Amp relay. I originally used it just to be on the safe side, and I figured if I wrote the project that way, people would be able to use any kind of momentary switch they wanted to. IF the button you bought can handle higher currents, you could probably get by with wiring the button up directly, but if anything happens, and you fry something, I always thought it would be better to fry a relay than a relatively expensive starter button.



Boodro, yours has only two pins on it because there is no light bulb. Mine had 4, two for the actual button, and two for the light inside. If you decide not to use the relay, just make sure your button can handle the extra amperage for the starter circuit.



If your button is heavy duty (see a trend?) and you decide not to use the relay, you'll just have to run the 12V line in from the constant source that would normally go to pin 30 on the relay to one side of the button, then the starter wire from the firewall would go in the other side of your button. Either way you do it, you will still need the key to start it, and the Securilock transponder key feature will still be in play.



Like I said, I overdid it on the side of caution since it was the first attempt...

One of these days I'll re-write the project so the pictures are better (limited email room meant small pictures, which I HATE), and possibly show how to do it without the relay.
 
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For those that wish to see, here's a link to a video of my button in action. Sorry it's so dark, but you can see it light up when pressed. I thought about wiring it to the lights, but it's pretty bright and I'm not sure I'd want it on all the time.
 
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