Engine wants to stall when put into Drive

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Greg Jorczyk

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I have a 2003 Sport trac with 148,000 miles. When the engine is cold and I start it, it idles slightly rough. Then when I put it into drive the rpms drop to almost nothing for a second and almost stalls, then it picks back up and idles at 900rpm. When the engine is warm there is no problem with the idle.



I cleaned the throttle body and the IAC, but did not seem to help.



Thanks for the help.



Greg
 
With the minimal info provided...I'm going to guess it's a vacuum leak (rough idle at start).

I'm further going to speculate that it is the little rubber elbow towards the front of the passenger side of the engine..or you left something unconnected when you cleaned things.
 
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Check engine light or trouble codes? Ditto on the PCV elbow if it's never been replaced at 148k.
 
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Fuel filter, plugs were replaced at 98,000. Battery and air filter replaced at 124,000. Plug wires look in great shape. If the PVC is the pipe going from the air intake tube around the back of the engine it was replaced at 100,000. That pipe had cracked and was replaced by a shop, is that the PVC?
 
As noted, could be 100 things at this point - need more details. Any codes? Does it idle rough? I'd suggest diagnosis before part swap. If you can, check fuel pressure at the rail at idle and when you tip in. A drop in pressure will indicate a potential problem with fuel delivery. If you have access to a scan tool, pull PIDs for MAF & MAP and check those as above. An erratic reading indicates a potential air leak or sensor problem.
 
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I had a similar issue just before I got rid of my 03. It had almost exactly the same miles. It wouldn't always want to start. Then it would kinda idle rough until I hit the accelerator. After much checking and investigating it turned out to be the fuel pump losing prime. So the best way to try this is to turn the key on and off a few times to let the fuel system build pressure. If then the Trac starts and stays idling fine then maybe that is the issue.
 
I'd agree with further diagnosis, but IMO you're due for a fuel filter. I'd check fuel pressure prior to, then after that.
 
Vacuum leaks are easy. Start the engine cold and under the rough idle. Just a light spray of starter fluid around suspect areas. Idle will increase momentarily when you hit the spot. Of course - I am assuming you are smart enough not blow yourself up while doing this (let the air clear between sprays). So if you are not comfortable doing this then ignore what I'm saying.



In my earlier post I was talking about a rubber elbow that is on the passenger side towards the front of the valve cover. It's a hot area and the rubber elbow fails. This happened on my 2003.



I did not replace with a Ford part. I went to my local auto parts store and had the guy dig through his pre-formed hoses until he found something that was the right diameter and had two elbows in it. I cut out one elbow out of it and the other is now a spare.



Good Luck.
 
:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:
 
Turned out to be the PVC was going bad
Click to expand...

PCV valve or PCV elbow? (Motorcraft EV268 or KCV-190)
 
The valve ev268, includes the metal tube/lines? I have read todds project on this but mentions two pn and also that the aftermarkets don't have the line. I'm thinking the 2 part numbers are the same, just a ford # and a Motorcraft? And the PCv hose, kvc190, includes the hose and elbows/hose clips?



Update: never mind on the question of the 2 part #s, they are the same and the kcv190 is hose and elbows.



When I was browsing the manual is mentions change pcv at 100k, is that the valve or hose? I don't think mines ever been changed out, owned since 96/97k. I think I'll do this also

 
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Kyle- Ford's interval for the PCV valve is 100k shown on page 24. Ford also recommends a transmission fluid

and filter change at 150k for "normal" use, which most feel is WAY too long. :banghead: No interval for the PCV elbow.
 
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Gotcha, but it seems the elbows for the hose are prone to crack. I seen the pcv mentioned but wasn't sure for which one. I'll go ahead and replace both, it's only 35$ For both from rockauto shipped. I'm trying to get caught up on maintenance, I was slacking for a few yrs and hope I didn't do any long term costly damage.



I'm pretty sure I dropped the pan and changed the filter when I bought it, roughly 95k. I don't recall seeing much metal shavings or anything when I did but I had my cousin help me do a few odds and ends, when I knew nothing. I'll do it again, I'm at 165k now. I have to slowly change fluid on everything anyways to get back on track, i really want to get this truck solid again so it'll last.
 

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