Heat in cab

[J. Olenko]

Fixed

 

[antny024]

You will have to check and be CERTAIN your blend door is working properly. If the blend door isn't closing off the cool air 100% you will never get heat. Have someone change the temp settings while you watch and physically see if the blend door moves. The blend door actuators are a common failure on ALL Fords.
The heater hoses should be the same temp. If they aren't the same temp it's possible the cooling system is airbound (an air pocket inside the heater core) it's a common issue if the cooling system has been worked on, or if the anti-freeze has been replaced.

 

[J. Olenko]

You will have to check and be CERTAIN your blend door is working properly. If the blend door isn't closing off the cool air 100% you will never get heat. Have someone change the temp settings while you watch and physically see if the blend door moves. The blend door actuators are a common failure on ALL Fords.
The heater hoses should be the same temp. If they aren't the same temp it's possible the cooling system is airbound (an air pocket inside the heater core) it's a common issue if the cooling system has been worked on, or if the anti-freeze has been replaced.

Thanks for the advice. How does one check the blend door? And for that matter how does one get rid of an air pocket inside the heater?

 

[antny024]

Depends on how handy you are... The blend door actuators are under the dash. Google "2010 Sport Trac blend door actuators" You'll see what they look like, then look under the dash below the glovebox and steering column and towards the center. They will be on both sides. Have someone change the temp, when you locate the temp control blend door motor, you will see it move. If it moves and doesn't make a clicking noise it's probably ok. If you ARE handy you'd have to drain the cooling system. Pour the coolant into a jug and use a special tool that will vacuum the air out of the cooling system, then because the cooling system is under vacuum, it will suck the new coolant into the system and leave no air inside. This is the tool.. https://www.amazon.com/Qiilu-Radiat...lant+vacuum+refill+kit&qid=1613599500&sr=8-20

 

[J. Olenko]

Depends on how handy you are... The blend door actuators are under the dash. Google "2010 Sport Trac blend door actuators" You'll see what they look like, then look under the dash below the glovebox and steering column and towards the center. They will be on both sides. Have someone change the temp, when you locate the temp control blend door motor, you will see it move. If it moves and doesn't make a clicking noise it's probably ok. If you ARE handy you'd have to drain the cooling system. Pour the coolant into a jug and use a special tool that will vacuum the air out of the cooling system, then because the cooling system is under vacuum, it will suck the new coolant into the system and leave no air inside. This is the tool.. https://www.amazon.com/Qiilu-Radiat...lant+vacuum+refill+kit&qid=1613599500&sr=8-20

Excellent advice. I will try to get this all done once the weather gets a little better.

 

[Andrew Homar]

I recently bought a 2010 ST in Oct 2020. It is a pretty minty, low mileage, one owner ST that has a 4.0. It has 132000 kms, (or 82000 miles), on it. While driving it this winter I noticed it has very poor heat in the cab. The temp gauge goes to the middle of the dashboard gauge and the coolant level is full. That makes me believe the thermostat is fine. I touch both heater hoses near the firewall and one is very hot to the touch and the other is hot but as hot as the other. I'm not sure if that is common or they should be the the exact same temperature? There is very weak heat in the cab and seems to get cooler if I turn the blower fan on full blast. I listen for the dreaded blend door noise but I don't hear it so I suspect the blend door situation is fine. Any thoughts on what the problem is? How I can get better heat. I'm in central Canada and it's friggin' freezing up here so any advice is appreciated, and the quicker the better!!

I am the original owner of a 2004 XLT. Before you go crazy check the basics. I had the same problem about a year ago. I actually got a "check engine" light throwing a code P0128 indicating "Coolant Temp. Below Spec." I replaced the thermostat along with the upper and lower thermostat housings (this is a sixteen year old truck, the housings can get pitted with age and are not that expensive to replace), replaced the housing O-ring, the temperature gauge sensor and refilled the coolant system with new G05 Zerex coolant (proper coolant to water ratio) all of which cleared the code and returned the truck to putting out proper heat in the cab. I am in New York and it can get cold here in the winter too. Cab temperature has been fine ever since.

 

[Andrew Homar]

Just want to add that the old thermostat was likely not opening up all the way...

 

[J. Olenko]

Just want to add that the old thermostat was likely not opening up all the way...

Thanks for the all the info. Your potential solutions makes sense. I'm going to replace the thermostat ASAP. I'll probably replace it with the hottest one I can put in there.

 

[DILLARD000]

Thanks for the all the info. Your potential solutions makes sense. I'm going to replace the thermostat ASAP. I'll probably replace it with the hottest one I can put in there.

Factory ThermoStat is rated 192f; do NOT advise replacing with a hotter rating, can cause engine overheating.
Best to use a correctly rated ThermoStat that opens\closed when it should.
Consider also replacing junk plastic ThermoStat Housing with an aluminum Housing.
Hope this helps.

More info at
https://2001fordexplorersporttrac.fandom.com/Engine_Coolant_ThermoStat