HELP!!! Front Rotors

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Ryan Schaecher

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I can't get the damn things loose. Beat on them with a rubber hammer, a framing hammer and a 5lb for 30 mins and nothing.



I can't spin the rotor 360 either since appearantly I've knocked the ABS sensor ring out of position...



F***!
 
Going to run down to the store real quick and try to find a cheap propane torch... heat and BFH. Need replacements now that I've beat the driver's side all to hell.



Will check back in before starting.
 
4x2 rotors dont come off seperatly as the 4x4. You have to pull the crown nut from the outer bearing. Under the dust cap. 4x2 rotor and bearing hub is one peice. If it wont come off. The inner bearing race is frozen to the spindle. Most likley you will have to replace the spindle also.
 
which nut? The lugs are off, the retainers on the lugs are long gone. The only nut I see is the bearing nut in the center of the assembly. The pad carriage is off.



[Broken External Image]:
 
Pull the cotter pin. Slip the keeper off. Then you will see the nut...

In the center..
 
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Be sure to wash the bearings and hub inpect them. Relace bearings and hub races if they are scalded or rough. Repack the bearings with a high temp grease. New rear grease seals also.



Procedure for reassy is. With calipers off. Tighten the centernut to 20ftlb torque while spining the rotor. Back nut off 1/2 turn. Retorque the nut to 12inlb. Find were the nut keeper lines up with cotter pin hole. Then replace the cotter pin.
 
Thanks guys. My neighbor came over to give me a hand when we discovered that the hub and rotor we expected to be two pieces were one piece...



Bearings are in good shape, rear seal is TRASH (had been apparently leaking for some time). Races appear to be good. The rotor will need to be replaced, at least on the driver's side since I beat it to hell. The passenger side hasn't been touched, but I'm sure it can't be turned since it's original with 135k miles and at least two sets of brake pads on it.



Guess I need a torque wrench as well since I don't have one and probable should if I'm going to keep working on my '96 Taurus and ST.



I need a Hayes manual as well apparently as I'm sure I would have been able to expect a one-piece setup.



Thanks ya'll. Will check back when all done around midnight tonight at this rate.



 
O'Reilly's believes they can turn the non-beat up one just fine. The pads are not getting replaced as they still have over half their life in them.
 
You're still gonna have one rotor (new) thick and one (used/cut) thin which will make the calipers work unevenlly thus making your truck pull to one side and or wear the calipers/ brake pads uneven.
 
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I agree with Jerry. I have always been told to replace both if you are going to replace one. Because usually there is some unforeseen thing that will either take place right away or down the road. Plus, brakes are nothing to mess with, because of the safety factor. Both for yourself, and others around you!
 
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You're still gonna have one rotor (new) thick and one (used/cut) thin which will make the calipers work unevenlly thus making your truck pull to one side and or wear the calipers/ brake pades uneven.
Click to expand...



Wrong. There is no "sensor" on how think a rotor is or its relation to the other side.



You can have a new rotor on one side and an old one on the other. Your vehicle does not know the difference. Your braking will be the same on both sides.



Anyone doing brakes will convince you that you should replace them both so the get more money out of you.





Tom
 
Took her out for a spin and all is well. It's enough for the next week anyway since I will be away from home and won't be using it.



Thanks ya'll.
 

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