A1cntrler
Well-Known Member
Jacob and I were finally able to get together on Saturday so that he could get some measurements and build a box for the '07. We came to the conclusion that the only speaker that will work in this applicaton is a shallow mount speaker. The available depth is no more than 3.5". Pioneer makes shallow mount 12's and 10's. I had a 12" one that I wanted to put in there. Total build time was about 5 hours. Measure once, cut twice and a lot of test fitting was the rule of the day. I think it turned out really well. We tried it out in his ST, but it did not compare to his custom center console sub he built. We did not mess with the crossover settings in his ST, as we just wanted to make sure the box was tight. It is constructed of 3/4" MDF on all sides except the back which is 1/2" MDF to allow for the pole to vent on the back of the sub. The space was so limited, every little bit helped. Teh airspace for the box was right around .75 cubic feet. The 12 I brought called for a sealed volume of .5 to 1.0 cubic feet. Turned out great. I'm not too sure if he will be building more though, due to only being able to use this one type of speaker in it. You might be able to convince him though...
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I covered it myself later Saturday night.
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Saturday afternoon my brother came down to help me put in my amps. We spent the better part of the evening gathering what we would need to do the install. I already had my two amps, a 4 channel Alpine and a Class D mono Alpine. We decided to run and conceal all the door speaker wires first. This was a hassle because of the way the wires go into the doors on the '07. Each door is connected to the vehicle wiring harness via a plug. If you wanted to remove the door, you could simply unplug the wiring harness at the body and carry it off. I had to drill two holes in each for the rear wires to pass through and into the rubber conduit. I think the time spent is worth it as it gives a cleaner install. If you plan to do this on your St as well, I wish you the best of luck on the fronts. This took us about 3 hours to complete for just the fronts. No holes needed to be drilled there, but just the access is terrible. The pass. side kick panel was a breeze compared to the drivers, in which the parking brake pedal was in the way. The whole parking brake assembley is on a thick metal plate that covers the access for the front door harness. We had to overcome that problem. It can be done, but expect a sore back and to have a lot of time/paitence. Made it to bed at 230am. Here are the pics of the rear door wires in the plugs:
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Sunday was better. All we had to do was run the power for the amps, RCA's, put on my rear view camera, and put the amps in and tune the settings. Took us 5 hours on sunday to complete the job. The 4 gauge power wire runs under the truck (on the top of the frame rail and wrapped in some heavy duty conduit for protection) and up through an existing hole into the the rear storage compartment. There is a "foil" tape rectangle that covers a hole that I assume is where the factory sub would mount. The power wire and camera wire pass through it no problem. It did take a bit of fishing around to get ahold of the wire, but I was relieved thaty I did not need to drill any new holes in the new ST. In the rear compartment I put my capicator and CD changer. I built a floor/wall out of some MDF I had laying around and covered it with the carpet as well. Turned out pretty good I t
[Broken External Image]:
I covered it myself later Saturday night.
[Broken External Image]:
Saturday afternoon my brother came down to help me put in my amps. We spent the better part of the evening gathering what we would need to do the install. I already had my two amps, a 4 channel Alpine and a Class D mono Alpine. We decided to run and conceal all the door speaker wires first. This was a hassle because of the way the wires go into the doors on the '07. Each door is connected to the vehicle wiring harness via a plug. If you wanted to remove the door, you could simply unplug the wiring harness at the body and carry it off. I had to drill two holes in each for the rear wires to pass through and into the rubber conduit. I think the time spent is worth it as it gives a cleaner install. If you plan to do this on your St as well, I wish you the best of luck on the fronts. This took us about 3 hours to complete for just the fronts. No holes needed to be drilled there, but just the access is terrible. The pass. side kick panel was a breeze compared to the drivers, in which the parking brake pedal was in the way. The whole parking brake assembley is on a thick metal plate that covers the access for the front door harness. We had to overcome that problem. It can be done, but expect a sore back and to have a lot of time/paitence. Made it to bed at 230am. Here are the pics of the rear door wires in the plugs:
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Sunday was better. All we had to do was run the power for the amps, RCA's, put on my rear view camera, and put the amps in and tune the settings. Took us 5 hours on sunday to complete the job. The 4 gauge power wire runs under the truck (on the top of the frame rail and wrapped in some heavy duty conduit for protection) and up through an existing hole into the the rear storage compartment. There is a "foil" tape rectangle that covers a hole that I assume is where the factory sub would mount. The power wire and camera wire pass through it no problem. It did take a bit of fishing around to get ahold of the wire, but I was relieved thaty I did not need to drill any new holes in the new ST. In the rear compartment I put my capicator and CD changer. I built a floor/wall out of some MDF I had laying around and covered it with the carpet as well. Turned out pretty good I t
