Jeff C
Well-Known Member
Yeah, Larry, that's the one. I have 4.10 LSD...but I'm always spinning the rear passenger tire off the line, like, really bad, and sometimes it will hop for the first 30ft.
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Jerry, question about your 3in drop
- Thread starter Larry Phillips
- Start date
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Jerry Pollen
Member
Larry, I don't think you'll be able to trim the stock rear bump stops any more due to the mounting bolt. You can see on a tapered section on the stock bump stops about an inch and a half from the bottom. That is the line I used to trim mine. They go fairly easily with just a sharp kitchen knife.
I thought I had some rubbing issues in the front on my swaybar, but found that it was something else. My tires do not rub at stock height, 2" or 3" lower.
After raising it back up and taking off the swaybar and Edelbrock shocks, I sure do miss the handling that I had before!
Also, I never carried much of a load in the bed, but when I had 4 people in the cab, I noticed quite a bit more bottoming out.
I thought I had some rubbing issues in the front on my swaybar, but found that it was something else. My tires do not rub at stock height, 2" or 3" lower.
After raising it back up and taking off the swaybar and Edelbrock shocks, I sure do miss the handling that I had before!
Also, I never carried much of a load in the bed, but when I had 4 people in the cab, I noticed quite a bit more bottoming out.
TRACket Paul
Well-Known Member
I used the EE parts for everything.
I jacked up the front and removed the wheels, 10mm socket on 3/8 dr ratchet, and 5 minutes later I put the wheels back on.
The rear was pretty easy too. Jacked up the body, dropped the spare tire for better access. 15mm wrench to remove and 15 minutes later I raised the spare and lowered the ST.
Yes, I used jack stands. I always use them, even my brand new Craftsman SUV 3-ton floor jack leaked at the piston seal, so back it goes.
I jacked up the front and removed the wheels, 10mm socket on 3/8 dr ratchet, and 5 minutes later I put the wheels back on.
The rear was pretty easy too. Jacked up the body, dropped the spare tire for better access. 15mm wrench to remove and 15 minutes later I raised the spare and lowered the ST.
Yes, I used jack stands. I always use them, even my brand new Craftsman SUV 3-ton floor jack leaked at the piston seal, so back it goes.
Larry Phillips
Well-Known Member
Why did you take the front wheels off? Did you install the camber kit yourself?
Travis Munday
Well-Known Member
Larry, if you're thinking about trimming the stock bump stops, be careful to not trim off too much. If you trim off too much, the axle tube might hit the metal mounting bolt, and while it won't cause any immediate harm, it certainly isn't helping things any.
3" is is for wussies...you should go like 6", 7", somewhere around there is much better...lol. Put that frame less then a foot from the ground, and the front x-member less then 4" from the ground...
3" is is for wussies...you should go like 6", 7", somewhere around there is much better...lol. Put that frame less then a foot from the ground, and the front x-member less then 4" from the ground...
TRACket Paul
Well-Known Member
Larry, I installed the 3" blocks then took it to Big O. They installed the adjustable camber cams, adjusted the torsion bars for the drop, and aligned it for $169.95.
Travis, what the heck are you talking about? 3",6", or 7" drop or ground clearance on the front/rear? My 3" (rear) and 1 3/8" (front) drop is marginally streetable. Add a two/three passengers and the ride will SUCK, pond water. But I'm sure it will look great, parked.
Travis, what the heck are you talking about? 3",6", or 7" drop or ground clearance on the front/rear? My 3" (rear) and 1 3/8" (front) drop is marginally streetable. Add a two/three passengers and the ride will SUCK, pond water. But I'm sure it will look great, parked.
Travis Munday
Well-Known Member
lol Paul....It'd be plenty streetable. It's all a matter of if you don't mind a ride that is worse then stock. I personally don't care how hard the truck rides, because I really don't notice it. I just drive around the holes and such, not over them like in a regular truck, or even car. Of course, your idea of "streetable" and mine are probably REALLY different...to me streetable has nothing to do with comfort or ground clearance, or even horsepower, but more along the lines of "how many tickets am I asking to get driving this thing?", and if the answer is not enough to get the vehicle impounded, then it's streetable...doesn't matter if it's street legal or not. For isntance the '66 project truck I'm working on...no a/c, no heat, no windshield wipers, only one mirror (and it's too small to be of any use), shaved doors, low stance, almost straight pipes, and a nicely built motor in a lightweight package....plenty streetable, just not street legal.
I've had my truck filled with three adults (only got three seats, lol) and a week's worth of luggage for all of us, rode fine and only drug the ground once, which was coming into the driveway, there's a bit of a crest at the very top.
I've had my truck filled with three adults (only got three seats, lol) and a week's worth of luggage for all of us, rode fine and only drug the ground once, which was coming into the driveway, there's a bit of a crest at the very top.
TRACket Paul
Well-Known Member
LOL Travis, I momentarily forgot the spectrum of "street-able". Point taken.
Larry Phillips
Well-Known Member
:lol: Thanks! If I dropped it any more than 3in, I don't think I could steer it...
Travis Munday
Well-Known Member
It's not like the ST has the best of turning radius' to begin with....lol....you don't need inner fender anyway.
