Knock Not MAF Related?

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Go backto the dealer and get your money back for the MAF. I don't let any dealer charge me for new parts that don't fix the problem.



You are paying for trained tech to properly diagnose and fix the problem. If he wants to take guesses on what parts to replace, let them do it on their dime not yours.



...Rich
 
You know I wounder if the vacuum elbow is cracked and the computer has not picked it up yet????

Todd Z
 
Im thinking it has somthing to do with those two themostat sensors in the front under the TB. My porblem thouhg is whose genious design was it to put them under the mani/plenum so that the only way you can remove them is you have to take apart the entire manifold? there is only a 1/4 inch of clearence.



anyone removed one before? how long, how dificult?
 
Stop trying to self-diagnose the problem and randomly replacing parts before your damage your engine and really have some expensive repair bills.



I would recommend having the temperature sensors tested before going through all the trouble of removing/replacing them only to find out they are not the problem.



Ford has provided a lot of diagnostic equipment and instructions for their Tech's to follow. They are very detailed and specific as to what to test, how to test it, what the test should reveal, and what to replace if the tests fails. The more you drive the vehicle without having the cause of the knocking properly diagnosed, then you are risking serious damage to your engine.



The days of just throwing new parts at a problem has long since past. It is very unusual for a MAF to cause knocking since the O2 Sensor would detect the lean mixture. Both units failing would even be more rare.



Like I said before, you need to get your money back for the new MAF sensor that did not solve the knocking problem, and then you slhould take your Sport Trac to another dealer that will run the proper diagnostics.



...Rich
 
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Where do you live? is there high humidity? because I was told (grant it I dont know how true this is and what the effects are if this is the case) that the humidity in the air is what causes mine to do that....( i live in south carolina...so humidity is very high) .but now after reading all this i am skeptical.....all i know is my 01' does the exact same thing "jacque766" described and I would like to know what the deal is also...premimum gas does not help....nothing helps except letting you foot off the gas and easing back in it....and even then it starts back. Also reguarding the other ford motors doing it....my 93 ranger (2.3l 4cyl) did the same thing....it had 230,000 miles on it before it was put out of commission by an impatient teenager! never had a problem out of that motor whatsoever...didnt even use oil.......so in my mind till someone finds a cure I will continue to drive my 01' like it is... and just hope its the nature of the beast in high humid enviorments (or until someone else from SC tells me they have the same vehicle and theirs doesnt do it). And one more thing....what was the recall on the 01's jacque766 was talking about eariler....ive been away from this site for a while and havent heard of this.... Thanks...
 
RichardL is right on the money, with his advice, again! As far as throwing parts at a problem

and hoping they fix it?! That should come out of Ford's/The Tech's pocket and not yours,

as they are basically using your 'Trac and you wallet as "Guniea Pigs"!

BTW, timing chains can stretch, due to heat, and maybe cause the symptoms you are

describing. They get weaker, and more succeptible to stretching over time/mileage

as metal fatigue sets in. Lean codes should be picked up by the OBD ll, which may cause

knock. TPS will usually cause idle/stalling problems. It sounds like your pistons and

valves are not communicating properly to each other. How does this happen, you might

query, on such a sophisticated piece of equipment such as our 'Tracs?;

The OBDll/Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is programmed with a given set of parameters

to refer to in deciding spark,and air/fuel mixtures from the factory, depending on engine temp,

inputs and condition of other sensors in the system, outside air temp/pressure (MAFT /MAP

sensors) and the like. The only thing I can think of that might be causing the problem

you described would be valve/pison timing due to timing chain stretch. As of yet, I have

not seen a sensor that can detect this ( a timing chain auto or wear-tensioner is not

a sensor, if our tracs are so equipped!). The computer has a "Mulligan" thrown at it

that it was not designed to detect. Some may also say, or argue, that if you have a

timing chain wear tensioner, how can you get a knock? This device was designed to

prevent excess timing chain play from causing the timing chain to slip the gear completely

or "skip a tooth", preventing piston-to-valve interference, but you can still have valve-to-piston

timing issues as the chain stretches.;)
 
The other thing is the gas itself. Where I live, in the summer we get the crappy oxygenated gas. The 3.0 Ranger I used to have would ping like crazy in the summer unless I ran 89, and 91 was better, despite several trips to the dealer to adjust or reflash it. My 4.0 Ranger (and now 4.0 Trac) did not ping on the summer 87 gas but they don't run as well either.
 

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