Need HELP with my brakes

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Felix Sordo

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Hi, could someone help me out with this issue, I’m having a real hard time finding info on this & maybe someone else has come across this.



I have a 2001 Sport Trac 2X4, under normal braking I’m getting feedback or surging on the brake pedal. If I take my hands of the steering wheel it will jerk to the left evey time it surges. My fluid reservoir is full, the brake booster doesn’t seem to be leaking, the pads are all good & the rotors are not warped.



Does anyone have any ideas?

 
How do you know your rotors are not warped?? That is the most common problem with brake pulsing through the pedal and steering wheel.



Gary is probably right that you have a bad caliper that is sticking That would account for the pulling to one side. However that should not cause any pulsing in the pedal. That would indicated that the rotor is warped, cracked or some other problem.



If you have never flushed your brake fluid or just pushed the caliper pistons back in their bores to change brake pads, you may have serious corrosion in the calipers or even fouled up the ABS brake servos.



Addly enough, it could also be your rear brakes causing the pulsing in the pedal if the drums are warped or out of round.



A good way to test it would be to remove the fuse from your ABS to disable it. Find somewhere where it is safe and you won't loose control. and slam on the brakes at 20 MPH. You should be able to tell by the skid marks and the pulling as to which brake is not working since it will be the one that did not skid



...Rich
 
The steering wheel can jerk due to alignment issues as well.....

But you either have out of round drums or a warped front rotor...



The rear drums are activated first then the fronts so if the drum hits a warp it can send fluid to the front causing the jerk...



But I think it is more then likely a rotor..



Todd Z
 
Thanks everyone for all the advise.



Let me correct myself, the rotors seem flat, the drums I havent checked. I will be replacing shocks & front brg’ings this weekend so I guess I will check the run out of the rotors with I dial indicator & see what I got.



The pulling to the left happens in conjuction with the pulsing so it’s possible a caliper or drum is sticking, but the corrosion in the system I don’t understand. You would think if the system is sealed no contaniment can be introduced into the fluid, regardless if your pushing the piston back into the caliper, correct? No contamination no corrosion. If contamination was to be introduced it would be at the time you open system, replacing a line or a servo, adding fluid, etc. Rich please explain your theory to me.



Also Rich if I take the ABS system out by removing the fuse & this pulsing goes away, would you think it would be the ABS module ackting up correct?



Thanks again

Pres570

 
You need a dial indicator to measure the rotor run-out. You cannot see the warpage by eye....We are talking about thousands of an inch that make the difference between a warped rotor that pulsates or one that doesn't.



Cantamination of the brake fluid is not just my theory, it's a well known fact. Brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it attracts and absorbs moisture from the air while sitting in the brake fluid reservoir. Since the water is heavier than the fluid it will move to the bottom of the reservoir and eventually get pumped through the master cylinder and into the brake lines. The heavier water will seek the lowest part of the brake system which is the calipers and/or wheel cylinder (drum brakes). That moisture/water will cause erradic brake operation, as well as begin to attack the metal parts of the caliper and piston. Most calipers use a cast iron or steel bore sleeve, and the pistons are often a steel or aluminum alloy or even plastic. Also, your brake lines are steel and will rust on the outside and the inside.



All you need to do is attach a hose the the bleed valve and the other end into a glass jar of clean, fresh brake fluid. Open the bleed screw and have someone pump the brake pedal and now look at the color of the fluid comming out of your caliper. If you have not flushed the fluid in 2 years or more, you will see what that moisture has done to your brake fluid. It will likely be a very dark reddish brown color like rust with bits and globs of debris, etc.



If the pistons where pushed back into the caliper bores when new brake pads were installed, the crud was pushed back up into the ABS system. If that crud damages the ABS system, you are in for some very expensive repairs.



The contamination can also cause pitting of the caliper piston bores behind the pistons which often don't show up unit the brake pads are replaced and the pistons are pushed back into the bores. This puts the piston back over the pitted areas of the bore and leads to sticking and damage to the piston seals and o-rings.



That's why it is wise to open the bleed screw when you push the pistons back in to install new brake pads. T?his allows you to seek the condition of the fluid, as well as prevenenting contaminated fluid from being pushed back into the ABS unit. It also make the piston easier to push back in. In fact I push the piston back in with my fingers and I can feel if there is any significant damage to the piston bores...Yes, you can actually feel any binding or grinding if the piston bore is pitted..



Of course this means you will need to bleed the brakes after installing the new brake pads, but I find that after going though a set of pads, it's time to flush the fluid anyway so It is always part of my brake job.



I go one step further and replace the calipers with rebuilt calipers at every brake job. It's cheap insurance and most auto part stores will ovver 50K mile and even lifetime warranties. I keep my receipt and take the used calipers back in and get free replacements for my 2nd and subsequent brake jobs, so it's not as expensive as it sounds. The most I have paid for a rebuild OEM caliper is $59 each and some I have gotten for as little as $19 each. Some might think that is overkill, but I insist on good brakes and do not compromise on having top notch brakes on my vehicles.



...Rich
 
You need a dial indicator to measure the rotor run-out. You cannot see the warpage by eye....We are talking about thousands of an inch that make the difference between a warped rotor that pulsates or one that doesn't.



Cantamination of the brake fluid is not just my theory, it's a well known fact. Brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it attracts and absorbs moisture from the air while sitting in the brake fluid reservoir. Since the water is heavier than the fluid it will move to the bottom of the reservoir and eventually get pumped through the master cylinder and into the brake lines. The heavier water will seek the lowest part of the brake system which is the calipers and/or wheel cylinder (drum brakes). That moisture/water will cause erradic brake operation, as well as begin to attack the metal parts of the caliper and piston. Most calipers use a cast iron or steel bore sleeve, and the pistons are often a steel or aluminum alloy or even plastic. Also, your brake lines are steel and will rust on the outside and the inside.



All you need to do is attach a hose the the bleed valve and the other end into a glass jar of clean, fresh brake fluid. Open the bleed screw and have someone pump the brake pedal and now look at the color of the fluid comming out of your caliper. If you have not flushed the fluid in 2 years or more, you will see what that moisture has done to your brake fluid. It will likely be a very dark reddish brown color like rust with bits and globs of debris, etc.



If the pistons where pushed back into the caliper bores when new brake pads were installed, the crud was pushed back up into the ABS system. If that crud damages the ABS system, you are in for some very expensive repairs.



The contamination can also cause pitting of the caliper piston bores behind the pistons which often don't show up unit the brake pads are replaced and the pistons are pushed back into the bores. This puts the piston back over the pitted areas of the bore and leads to sticking and damage to the piston seals and o-rings.



That's why it is wise to open the bleed screw when you push the pistons back in to install new brake pads. T?his allows you to seek the condition of the fluid, as well as prevenenting contaminated fluid from being pushed back into the ABS unit. It also make the piston easier to push back in. In fact I push the piston back in with my fingers and I can feel if there is any significant damage to the piston bores...Yes, you can actually feel any binding or grinding if the piston bore is pitted..



Of course this means you will need to bleed the brakes after installing the new brake pads, but I find that after going though a set of pads, it's time to flush the fluid anyway so It is always part of my brake job.



I go one step further and replace the calipers with rebuilt calipers at every brake job. It's cheap insurance and most auto part stores will ovver 50K mile and even lifetime warranties. I keep my receipt and take the used calipers back in and get free replacements for my 2nd and subsequent brake jobs, so it's not as expensive as it sounds. The most I have paid for a rebuild OEM caliper is $59 each and some I have gotten for as little as $19 each. Some might think that is overkill, but I insist on good brakes and do not compromise on having top notch brakes on my vehicles.



...Rich
 

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