Oil Change

[Craig Childs]

I am going to do my own oil change today, and I was wondering if anyone had any tips to make it go more smoothly for me. I have never done this myself, and I obviously have no idea exactly what to do. I do know the basics of course, but I mean things like putting a little oil in the filter before installing it and little technical stuff like that.



FYI, I decided to go with the Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30 5 quart jug and a Fram filter (which I will be returning due to reading all the past posts about it). I chose this because my uncle owns a shop that only uses Pennzoil and it runs beautifully with it, and I have heard so many good things about synthetic, so...



I have an '05 4x2 XLS with just over 17,000 miles, if that helps



Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance

 

[Chris McQuay]

I alwas fill the filter with oil to avoid hearing the lifter rattle till it primes up. I prefer valvoline for the dyno stuff and mobil 1 for synthetic but different strokes for different folks. Other than that shouldn't take more than 15, 20 minutes tops. OH avoid driving/ running the motor befor doing it or you will burn your self.

 

[D Knx]

Craig C, I imagine most who do this maintenance have their own particular methods but for me I just keep it simple. I use only Motorcraft oil filters based on what I've read on here, I believe its' Motorcraft FL420S for my '05, and Motorcraft synthetic blend or better, Platinum's a good choice to me.



I stay away from Exxon/Mobil products whenever I can, just my personal boycott



I just put newspaper under the catch pan covering the area under the filter and drain plug, I prefer to have the engine warm for better oil drainage before I remove the oil cap from the top of the engine and then the drain plug. When the flow has trickled to a stop, I remove the old filter.



I wipe off both the plug and opening in the pan before re-inserting the plug and then I dip a finger in some fresh, new oil and coat the rubber gasket of the new filter before installing it. I just snug it up hand tight, not tighten down on it, then I add 4 quarts to the engine, run it for a minute to check for leaks around the plug and filter, if every thing's fine I top of the oil, clean up the mess, and I'm good to go.



I make sure to not cross thread the plug and filter and I keep an extra, empty catch pan or bucket nearby in case of leaks so I don't waste the new oil if I have to drain it again.



I usually keep an eye out for leaks under the vehicle, but particularly so after fluid changes.



D-

 

[Rod Helstad]

Congrats on wanting to take this on by yourself. Up until 15 years ago I did all of my own oil changes on my vehicles. Now I always bring it to a reputable shop and have it done. I don't have to worry about ramps slipping, or jacking. Plus I have saved a bunch of money on floor-dri and knuckle bandages! Usually costs me about $30 but they also lube if needed. Best part of it all is that there is a bar about 200 yards from the shop.



Rod

 

[Curt NA]

IMHO, if you are going to change your oil every time, I would get a quick change oil valve. I have these on all my cars and it makes draining the oil quick and easy without the mess. You also don't have to buy the washers anymore or risk stripping the drain bolt.

 

[Johnny O]

I have a claw-type filter wrench that works nicely.

For what it's worth, I sometimes send my used oil to a lab for testing, and I got much better results with Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic than I did with Mobil 1. It also costs less.

 

[Craig Childs]

Many thanks to you all, great information as usual

 

[Nick Miller]

Make sure the engine is warm. A cold filter can be hard to remove.