One of the Dreaded Flashing lights... Check Engine this time

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Tommy VanNess

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Hey Guys,



Sorry to post only problems lately, the last one being the brakes. (which are fine now BTW with new pads) Anyway, this morning on the way to work my Check Engine light started flashing. This scared the "you know what" out of me, so I pulled off and let it sit for a few minutes.



Just a quick history. I have a 2001 with 168,000 miles on it. 2 days ago, I started my drive home from work, and getting on the freeway, which is a slight uphil for a mile or two, the ST started sputtering and seemed like it didn't want to go. I have been dreading the tranny going out and felt like I have been lucky until now. But, after a minute of bucking (no lights flashing) it seemd ok for the rest of the ride home. (about 25 miles) Yesterday the truck was ok, and I figured it was just a fluke.



Now, this morning on the way to work, it started sputtering again. This time, it was when I was only going about 25 mph on a back road and it was accompanied by the Check Engine light flashing. It seemed like a rough idle because it was doing it at the stop light too when I wasn't moving. Anyway, I pulled off and parked it for a minute. I let it cool down for a sec and then finished the drive to work.



So, I guess what I am asking is; what should I expect this is? I am not convinced it is the transmission, the O/D light has not flashed. But the Check Engine light has me extremely worried. Could it be something simple like a filter, or the timing? Any help and info is appreciated. Thanks.



Tommy
 
Tommy,



Go to Autozone and have the code puller. Post it here and we are sure to help.



If I were to guess the issue, plugs and wires. Without the code, it is only a guess.





Tom
 
Thanks Caymen. Like I said before, you are always looking out for me (and everybody). Glad you are a member of the site. I will search around for an Autozone here close to work and try to do it at lunch.



Quick question. Will the reader still read a code after the light has stopped flashing?



Thanks again,

Tommy
 
If the light is ut, the code is gone. If you have a problem, it should be there.





Tom
 
Isn't the code stored for x number of engine cycles, even without the check engine light being on any more? A lot of auto parts places will read the codes for free, not just Autozone. Call around your area and see who is the closest.
 
Thanks Caymen and Chris. I hope something is able to be read. Napa will do it, but the one here just had their reader stolen. But down the block, a Schucks has a reader but makes you do it. (??? Never heard of that)



I will post anything I find. Thanks for the help guys.



Tommy
 
Well, when I went to schucks, the reader didn't come up with anything. The light wasn't flashing. It ran ok there and back. I picked up some fuel injector cleaner and gave everything a good look over. Everything looks ok with the exception of a seal behind the MAF. It was dried out and fairly cracked. On top of that, it is a very lose fitting anyway. ( I have the mac intake). I reseated it and will look to replace it tomorrow. I hope that's it, perhaps the air/fuel mixture may have been off. Thanks again for the info.



Tommy
 
If the light is flashing, something is wrong.



Take your Trac to another location, like Autozone, and let them read the OBD II system.



Then we can help you much better once you list the code.



Even if the light does go out, it will keep the code as an "Historical Code" for several engine cycles. A minimum of 8 cycles..
 
you need to look at the enhanced codes. I stomached the $100 and bought a scanner since I do a lot of my own auto work. I had a light flash on me like that when I was opening up my engine on the highway, it read it as a miss in one of my cylinders, and freeze framed all the data from it for me. Like the others said, there was definitely something wrong. Did you feel any power loss or anything else?



Bill
 
A flashing check engine light indicates a catalyst damaging misfire is currently happening and the vehicle shouldn't be driven.



A check engine light once illuminated will stay on unless it is either cleared or the pcm has ran the test on that particular system and passed 40 times in a row (I think that's what it is). After that the pcm can turn off the check engine light but the code must remain in history for another 80 (I think) drive cycles without the test failing again, keep in mind that a drive cycle is when all of the obd tests has ran and can sometimes take days to do so depending on your driving habits.
 
Thanks for the tips guys,



YEsterday when I went to Schucks, they gave me the OBDII reader and told me to do it. (Autozone will read it for you, but Schucks makes you do it, weird) Anyway, the scanner came up with nothing. The light wasn't flashing, so I figured it wouldn't come up with anything and that it was lost. Since yesterday morning, it has been running fine.



I am interested to see if the history can be read, I will run to Autozone today since I have the day off.



When I was at Schucks, I took a quick glance over everything, checked my fluids etc. and came across a badly cracked seal. This one is behind the MAF on a MAC intake and I figure might be messing with the air/fuel mixture. I fiddled with it and sort of reseated it. I was surprised to see how loos it fit, which I remember from the install. Could this be the culprit? Also, I can't remember if this is a Ford seal, or one that came with the Mac intake. Any thoughts? Anyway, here is the picture. Thanks again for all the great info guys.



[Broken External Image]:



Tommy
 
My ST did the same thing when the pre-cat on the drivers side y-pipe decided to blow out and destroy the main cat. Not saying that's what's wrong with yours but you might want to check your cats, theirs four. 2 pre-cats on the the y-pipe and the front and rear main cats. Check the O2 sensors to see if they need cleaned or replaced. As far as the grommet on the intake, just go to pepboys or any parts store around and get a breather element to replace the tube that goes to the intake. Check my library and you'll see pics of what I'm talking about. The elements are like $9 and just cap off the opening on the intake.
 

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