PCV valve replacement questions

[John Zuber]

Just purchased a new PCV valve, which includes the coolant wrap-around line...will this line just "snap off" from both the old and new valve? I'd rather not break into the cooling system if I don't have to, plus I would assume that pushing those small rubber hoses off the old lines might be easier said than done. So I would rather keep my old wrap-around line intact and just snap this onto the new valve. Will that work? The new valve in "in the mail", so I don't know how this arrangement works.

 

[Yardsale]

Was the valve bad? Don't see a lot of failures with them. They sometimes get filled with gunk; I clean them with whatever's handy (WD-40, solvent, etc.).



I think that coolant loop does not come off and, if it did, due to limited access, it's about the same amount of work.



See:

 

[Todd Z]

Actually if you bend the pipe a little it will come off. If the metal is rotted it will break.



You loose NO coolant a few drips. Just make sure the truck is cold, no pressure in the coolant system and leave the rad cap on.



I removed those stupid heaters years ago. No issues.



Todd Z

 

[John Zuber]

I went ahead and ordered the elbows and decided I would change out the valve too. In 10 years I haven't had to mess with the engine except for normal oil/coolant/filter/belt replacement. Agree, I normally clean these valves, but the valve has been ordered and on the way.

 

[Yardsale]

If the metal is rotted it will break.

Here's a reason to find another way to make this work. Who needs a failure like this looming?



The coolant loop isn't sophisticated. Any speculation in the intended purpose? Could it be to help ensure the valve works when gunk gets in there,or to prevent gunk?

 

[Todd Z]

Its specifically to prevent the valve from freezing if moisture gets in there, just like the throttle body. IT too has coolant lines going through it.



Like I said before, I removed them both for years now with no issues. I let the truck warm up before driving. Once warm, It no freeze.....LOL



Todd Z

 

[Yardsale]

I don't recall my '01 TB having coolant lines.



Either way - here in So CAL, I think I don't need either.



Thinking of it, how much longer could it possibly take to warm the PCV enough with ambient air temps and exhaust gases running through? A couple of minutes?

 

[Todd Z]

I don't know on the 01 job 1 or Job 2.



2002 and up def has.



Todd Z

 

[John Zuber]

So Todd, how did you do this...did you make a small loop for both the PCV and TB, or did you somehow block those coolant flow points? Any potential to create a trapped and stagnant coolant point? I really wouldn't mind getting rid of nonessential coolant lines...would like to know more. thanks.



By the way, when you said that you had removed those lines, I thought you were talking about when you replaced the value and had to pull the lines off the old valve.

 

[Todd Z]

I believe I posted a pic some where, I just disconnected the loop and made it shorter, i never cap or plug if possible.

Let me look and I can re post it here.



Todd Z

 

[Garry Moss]

Hey Todd



Just to clarify, the project walk thru says remove the rad cap, but yo said keep the rad cap on, is this correct? Just asking cuz I am about to change mine too.

 

[Todd Z]

Just remove the cap when COLD to relieve any pressure then put the cap back on. to keep the system as closed as possible.



Todd Z

 

[Todd Z]

Here is the best pic I could get right now trying to load from my phone. But as you can see I took the little tiny hose where comes off the heater hose by the firewall and just measured it, cut it and looped around and connected it to the metal pipe at the other end where it completes the circuit. And just remove all the other junk.

Todd Z [Broken External Image]:

 

[John Zuber]

That makes sense...thanks.