"Play" in leftt front tire

[Mike Ioco]

I mentioned in my post about by brake job, that I noticed a little side to side play in my driver side front left tire. When it's jacked up, I can "jiggle" the wheel a bit, maybe about 1/4 inch to the left, and the the same back to the right. I'm thinking that this isn't normal, because my passenger side tire wasn't doing it.



What could this be about?



Oh yeah, the inside of that tire is also wore down, much more so that then outside.



And the last "oh yeah", I had a front end alignment and new shocks put on 10,000 miles ago, after we noticed a cupping issue on that tire.



Okay, one more "oh yeah." I've got a really good vibration at speeds from 45 on.

 

[shawn stonbraker 2]

You probably have a bad ball joint. It's a common problem on the ST. Have it checked and replaced.

 

[Mike Ioco]

That might not be such an easy DIY job, right? Anyone know the cost?

 

[shawn stonbraker 2]

I know some here have done it. You will need a balljoint fork to get them loose and then it will probably have to have the alignment checked after. To me the best bet is to get it done by a shop. If it's still under warrenty, it will be covered. The cost will differ where you get it done. If mine was out of warrenty, I would take it to a Shadetree Shop that also does alighnment and have them put some "greasable" ones on there. It will be cheaper than taking it to the dealer and having them put the stupid "sealed" ones back on and have the same problem shortly down the road.

 

[EddieS'04]

soundslike a tie rod to me. most likley outer..

 

[Tom Schindler]

Balljoints are easy on the Trac. They come apart pretty easy, though it helps to know how to replace them.





Tom

 

[Mike Ioco]

I struggled with the brake job, so I don't think I'll tackle this one!



I do still have some extended warranty left... I wonder if it would be covered by that!



I've got the ST for sale, so I'm not overly concerned about greasability. I just want it to be solid.

 

[Mark Grumpy]

Ball joints are a good bet but I'd check the top and botton "jiggle" too before I started. With the wheel just off the ground as before, grab the top and bottom of the wheel and push and pull - could be bearings.



grump

 

[Patrick Pierobon]

happened to mine. it was the bearing. thank god it was covered under extended warranty. would have been 450 plus labour.



patrick pierobon

 

[Mike Ioco]

Maybe if I get the new ride before selling this one, I'll take it in for that.

 

[A1cntrler]

I bet it is the lower ball joint. Had the same on mine on the pass side. Replaced it and after that was done ended up doing the hub bearing (300 bucks for the part, free install done by me). A new tire may be in your future as well....

 

[Mike Ioco]

Re-checked, I don't have any top to bottom play, just side to side. Sounds like the ball joint, eh?

 

[Dre L]

I had that and it was the inner tie rods.



Ford checked the Trac 9 ways to sunday because there was still a metallic clicking after they replaced the tie rods.



Turned out the IAS shocks were shot as well. With only 18K miles / 18 months, go figure.

 

[Kevin Palmer]

One of three things.

Front Hub Bearings.

Ball Joint or Joints.

Or, Tie Rods.



Grab the tire on the top and bottom when it is jacked up. If you can wiggle it (top hand pushing in bottom hand pulling out) back and forth then it is either hub bearings or ball joint. If no movement, then bearing is good and more than likely the ball joint is good.



Grab the wheel left and right, try the wiggle thing again. If no movement then the tie rod is good. If it does move, you need to look into the back side to see if the tie rod is moving. If so, you need a tie rod, if not, bearing or ball joint.

 

[Mike Ioco]

Again, I don't have top to bottom, only side to side. I can't tell if the tie rod is moving. That's what is covered by the boot?

 

[Kevin Palmer]

Side to side is ALMOST always a tie rod.



You should be able to see the outer tie rod. If it is not moving then it is the inner tie rod. Now that requires some time and a few special tools to do the job.



I have done hundreds of them and finally spent the big bucks to get the proper tools for inner tie rods.

 

[shawn stonbraker 2]

Anytime Q.

 

[Dre L]

I got the special tool for my inner tie rods, my discover card, and a good dealer.



The inner is in a boot, but don't confuse it with the CV joint.



There was a noticeable change in ride after the replacement, it felt brand new.

 

[Mike Ioco]

Nobleman, that was done under warranty, right?



What I hate about this, is if I take it to the dealer and it's not covered by the ESP, then I pay HUGE!

 

[Dre L]

No, no it was not, thanks for rubbing it in.



I don't bother with ESP. This was around 60K miles, and it ran in the $250 - $400 range. I don't remember exactly how much off the top of my head, since I had a water pump replaced at the same time.



I don't believe this is a wear and tear item, so it should be covered. I don't imagine they would wear out so soon normally, but the roads around here are harsh, and the bad shocks might have added to it.