Wayne Partridge
Active Member
My rad is leaking bottom driver side, Bought a new one after 200,000 klm. Would there be any tips before installation. Not sure if I need to take the fan blade off the water pump. Gen 2 v8 thanks
Rad
- Thread starter Wayne Partridge
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EddieS'04
In Memoriam 1950-2022
Just remeove and slide the fan shroud back......thats all
Wayne Partridge
Active Member
Thanks Eddie sounds like an a simple job then of taking off clips . Cheers
Mike S 3
Active Member
I'd also replace your cap with a 16lb cap. In my opinion the reason this is a common problem is due to the higher psi cap that ford used originally. I replaced my cap with a 16lb cap early on and have not had any issues with my OEM radiator...
Wayne Partridge
Active Member
Mike good advise would that correct the minor leak I have now ? Goodyear wants 3 hours 273 bucks to install. Going to do myself
Yardsale
Well-Known Member
Only if that leak is at the cap.
I question the logic behind using a lower-rated cap. Seems that it would inhibit the cooling system from cooling as designed (lower pressure, more fluid escaping to overflow, less fluid to dissipate heat).
I question the logic behind using a lower-rated cap. Seems that it would inhibit the cooling system from cooling as designed (lower pressure, more fluid escaping to overflow, less fluid to dissipate heat).
Wayne Partridge
Active Member
No leak bottom driver side . Prefer aluminum solid rad no plastic.
Gavin Allan
Well-Known Member
I cannot imagine that 4 psi makes much difference to the radiator.
Wayne Partridge
Active Member
I thought this was good info.
3.Does the overflow tank have too much or too little coolant after vehicle has been run for a while? Under normal circumstances there should be some coolant in your overflow tank after using your vehicle. If you have driven a long distance with almost no coolant over flowing, then your pressure cap may not be opening. In this case you might need a lower psi cap, though you should try one of the same psi first. Alternatively, if you drive it for a short distance and there is a lot of coolant in the overflow tank, the cap may be opening too soon. In this situation you would probably experience heat problems too. Again, try the same psi cap first in case you have a faulty cap, but if it still seems like you have too much coolant flowing out, then try a higher psi cap.
3.Does the overflow tank have too much or too little coolant after vehicle has been run for a while? Under normal circumstances there should be some coolant in your overflow tank after using your vehicle. If you have driven a long distance with almost no coolant over flowing, then your pressure cap may not be opening. In this case you might need a lower psi cap, though you should try one of the same psi first. Alternatively, if you drive it for a short distance and there is a lot of coolant in the overflow tank, the cap may be opening too soon. In this situation you would probably experience heat problems too. Again, try the same psi cap first in case you have a faulty cap, but if it still seems like you have too much coolant flowing out, then try a higher psi cap.
Yardsale
Well-Known Member
It's not good info. Way too full of "what ifs" and no quantitative evaluation criteria.
Under what circumstances? How much is "almost no"?
The overflow tank has "Hot" and "cold" levels marked on it. That is your guide.
If some of the coolant that might flow to the overflow reservoir is leaking out, that amount is skewing the amount perceived as going into the reservoir. If there is a leak, it will not go away by replacing the radiator cap.
There are plenty of instances to complain about where parts (seem to) fail prematurely, but these vehicles are designed, mostly, by college-degreed engineers (and cooling systems aren't leading-edge technology). If there is a leak, it's either a poor design or poor manufacturing. Probably not a poor design or there would be mass horror stories about them, followed by a design change.
When manufacturing a million (?) of the same part, some are going to be bad. Did You get one? Maybe, but it's seven years old, so maybe not.
My suggestion is to replace (or repair) the radiator, thermostat and cap, get a good flush, and move on.
Under what circumstances? How much is "almost no"?
The overflow tank has "Hot" and "cold" levels marked on it. That is your guide.
If some of the coolant that might flow to the overflow reservoir is leaking out, that amount is skewing the amount perceived as going into the reservoir. If there is a leak, it will not go away by replacing the radiator cap.
There are plenty of instances to complain about where parts (seem to) fail prematurely, but these vehicles are designed, mostly, by college-degreed engineers (and cooling systems aren't leading-edge technology). If there is a leak, it's either a poor design or poor manufacturing. Probably not a poor design or there would be mass horror stories about them, followed by a design change.
When manufacturing a million (?) of the same part, some are going to be bad. Did You get one? Maybe, but it's seven years old, so maybe not.
My suggestion is to replace (or repair) the radiator, thermostat and cap, get a good flush, and move on.
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Gavin Allan
Well-Known Member
My opinion is the long-term durability is not great on these radiators because of the huge pressure to lower costs and reduce weight of vehicles by the accountants. I do not blame the engineers, nor do I blame the manufacturing or quality control folks. In some ways I also blame Obama.
Hell, the original radiator survived for nearly 8 years and over 200,000 km., as did the 20 pisg cap. So far, we know nothing about the operation and maintenance of the cooling system.
Hell, the original radiator survived for nearly 8 years and over 200,000 km., as did the 20 pisg cap. So far, we know nothing about the operation and maintenance of the cooling system.
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EddieS'04
In Memoriam 1950-2022
We did have a few membrs that droped the cap pressures with good success. If iremember it saved them from bursting the 3rd radiator. Plus an overheating isssue.
Idroped my t-stat on my 4.0L , to the optional 180degree here in houston with a 16 lb cap. Mysummer temps run 188-190 instaed of 220. Sinnce I now run underdrive pulleys. Winter temps run 188-190, also.
In my own test Ifound the oem t-stat only opened 1/4". the 180 stant t- stat opened fully. Ihave had this same trouble with ford t-stats in the past. Bleww the tank off of my '94 stang rad.
Call me a pesimist. Idont allows agree with auto engineers. In all services. Or the new oem was faulty.
Anyway t-stats and caps. Stant hasbeen my brand to buy.
Idroped my t-stat on my 4.0L , to the optional 180degree here in houston with a 16 lb cap. Mysummer temps run 188-190 instaed of 220. Sinnce I now run underdrive pulleys. Winter temps run 188-190, also.
In my own test Ifound the oem t-stat only opened 1/4". the 180 stant t- stat opened fully. Ihave had this same trouble with ford t-stats in the past. Bleww the tank off of my '94 stang rad.
Call me a pesimist. Idont allows agree with auto engineers. In all services. Or the new oem was faulty.
Anyway t-stats and caps. Stant hasbeen my brand to buy.
Wayne Partridge
Active Member
I asked this question :My rad is leaking bottom driver side, Bought a new one after 200,000 klm. Would there be any tips before installation. Not sure if I need to take the fan blade off the water pump. Gen 2 v8 thanks . Has anyone other than Eddie done this .
Yardsale
Well-Known Member
And?
Wayne Partridge
Active Member
Waste of time no practical
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Wayne Partridge
Active Member
yardsale do you have any practical experience in installing a rad or do you just add your worthless 2 cents
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Yardsale
Well-Known Member
Really Wayne; personal attacks? Is this how you respond when people offer advice?
Wayne Partridge
Active Member
My question was not about a rad cap . It was about installing a rad if there were any practical help from someone who has done it before. This is my first Ford
I would prefer no answers than off topic . New rad / Leak from bottom, This is hardly a personal attack. I didn't mean it that way :haveabeer:
I would prefer no answers than off topic . New rad / Leak from bottom, This is hardly a personal attack. I didn't mean it that way :haveabeer:
Vic Sorlie
Well-Known Member
Wayne, you might search YouTube for some DIY videos. I just looked at a few briefly - most were poor quality. IMO it's pretty straightforward job, but messy because of the fluids you'll need to drain; not only the engine coolant but the transmission fluid. The transmission lines at bottom of radiator have "quick disconnects" that can be anything but if you aren't familiar with them. You'll need a special tool that you can get at your local parts store. Along with the radiator you might consider replacing hoses, t-stat, serpentine belt and the idler pulleys. I recently did the belt and pulley job on my 4.6L with a Gates kit I bought from RockAuto.
Wayne Partridge
Active Member
Thanks Vic Found this post .
Just finished this job, thought I would post my experience. Remove all of the obvious bolts, 2 10mm hold the rails to the rad, 2 14mm hold the rails to the body, 4 10mm for the fan shroud, air dam on the bottom with plastic push fasteners. Also, remove the overflow tank, unbolt the PS tank and move it out of the way and the clamp from the condenser line on the right side. Here is the trick, the condenser is held to the rails with 2 10mm bolts. Tilt the rad assembly forward and use a flashlight to look down between the rad and condenser. Loosen (no need to remove) these bolts and the rails will slide out away from the condenser. Make sure it is completely free of the rails at the top. The condenser is held in place at the bottom with metal pins that sit into rubber grommets, just lift it out. Once the condenser is free you are pretty much there. The next trick is to completely remove the air cleaner box. This gives you enough room to maneuver the radiator and the two rails away from the AC plumbing on the right side. You have to take out the rails with the rad, they slide on from the side and there isn't enough room to do it in the truck. If you can avoid it, don't remove the lower hose from the engine, getting it re-installed back behind the fan is a pain. Finally wound up removing the compression clamp and replacing it with a screw clamp. After removing transmission lines, quickly moved them up and wedged them behind some other lower engine/suspension parts. This get's them high enough so gravity is not an issue, only lost about 1/2 cup + what was inside the old coil, of trans fluid this way. Fittings were the right size so screwing them back into place was no problem. Still taking it into the dealer to top off the trans fluid. Much cheaper than letting them do the whole job.
Just finished this job, thought I would post my experience. Remove all of the obvious bolts, 2 10mm hold the rails to the rad, 2 14mm hold the rails to the body, 4 10mm for the fan shroud, air dam on the bottom with plastic push fasteners. Also, remove the overflow tank, unbolt the PS tank and move it out of the way and the clamp from the condenser line on the right side. Here is the trick, the condenser is held to the rails with 2 10mm bolts. Tilt the rad assembly forward and use a flashlight to look down between the rad and condenser. Loosen (no need to remove) these bolts and the rails will slide out away from the condenser. Make sure it is completely free of the rails at the top. The condenser is held in place at the bottom with metal pins that sit into rubber grommets, just lift it out. Once the condenser is free you are pretty much there. The next trick is to completely remove the air cleaner box. This gives you enough room to maneuver the radiator and the two rails away from the AC plumbing on the right side. You have to take out the rails with the rad, they slide on from the side and there isn't enough room to do it in the truck. If you can avoid it, don't remove the lower hose from the engine, getting it re-installed back behind the fan is a pain. Finally wound up removing the compression clamp and replacing it with a screw clamp. After removing transmission lines, quickly moved them up and wedged them behind some other lower engine/suspension parts. This get's them high enough so gravity is not an issue, only lost about 1/2 cup + what was inside the old coil, of trans fluid this way. Fittings were the right size so screwing them back into place was no problem. Still taking it into the dealer to top off the trans fluid. Much cheaper than letting them do the whole job.
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