Rancho Quick Lift Install

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blksn8k

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Well, I finally got around to installing the Rancho loaded shocks and struts that I purchased last winter for my 2007 Limited 4x4. I had back surgery for a herniated disc in mid April so I had to lay low for a few months. I took my time and spent pretty much all day in my garage last Saturday installing the Ranchos as well as new front brake pads and I also rotated the tires. I used 1/2" and 3/8" drive air ratchets wherever possible.

The brake pads were in surprisingly good shape for having over 83,000 miles on the originals. I probably could have waited another year but since I already had the parts and was going to have the wheels off anyway....

The shocks and struts were another story. On the rear I obviously had to remove the lower bolt that attaches the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm. What was not so obvious was that I also had to remove the bolt connecting the lower control arm to the spindle as well as the sway bar end link. This was necessary to get the lower control arm low enough to be able to get the old shock/spring assembly out and the new one in. I actually started using a pair of spring compressors but soon decided that disconnecting stuff to gain space was going to be a much easier and quicker approach.

The nice thing about the Rancho Quick Lifts is that they come with a new spring already installed (thus the term "loaded") which also means you do not need a spring compressor to swap the old springs onto new shocks. They also include new polyurethane bushings and insulators making them a true bolt in assembly. The only part reused from the old shocks was the lower mounting bolt. The only real surprise in the back was that the driver side sway bar end link was broken. I did a temporary fix on that until the new Motorcraft replacement end link assembly arrives.

The front struts were a very similar process to the rears with the exception of disconnecting the upper ball joint to allow the spindle and lower control arm to drop together as opposed to just the lower control arm on the rear.

The most annoying part of the whole process was getting at the three nuts on the the top of each assembly that are on the studs that hold the upper cans to the frame brackets. The ones on the rear were rusted badly and you have reach up between the frame bracket and the bed to get at them. Not fun. Lots of PB Blaster and many scrapped knuckles. Not so bad on the front as the nuts were accessible from the engine compartment. However, one of the nuts on the driver side is under some sort of emissions fitting or something on the inner fender and it was pretty much an open wrench deal as even a socket and universal wound not fit properly in that space. I'd like to strangle the fool who made that decision.

All I can say is I wish I could have done this six months ago. The shocks and struts are 9 position adjustable. The truck already rides so much better than stock and I have not even fooled with the settings yet. This also cured the thumping sounds from a worn out insulator on the right front strut as well as the front end axle tramp that was present from the day I bought the truck new. I always thought something wasn't right but I just assumed it was a piss-poor front suspension design. It was most obvious when driving over a speed bump or large rock off-road as the frontend would drop suddenly causing a loud crashing noise. I attributed this to too much rebound in the stock struts. I drove through a very rough construction site on Sunday and never had that happen once nor has it happened since on the two speeds bumps in the parking lot at work.

The Ranchos also gave me some lift at the rear which should help to cure a tire rub issue with the oversize 265-65-18 BFG All-Terrain TAs when towing my trailers or hauling my ATV. They are advertised to provide about 1.5 inches of lift all-around but on my truck it only seems to have lifted the rear about an inch which is fine for my needs. The only thing left to do now other than the one sway bar end link is to get a suspension alignment scheduled.
 
I put these on my Tundra along with the 9000's in the rear...I really like them. I plan on getting the kit so I can adjust them on the fly from inside of the truck.



What makes these a very good choice as opposed to adding spacers for a lift is that these use springs and also relocate the bottom spring perch to acheive lift so there is no over extension of the front suspension which wipes out ball joints in short order.



I wouldn't drive it until you get the alignment done as it is going to be WAYYY out of spec, chances are that you won't be able to get everything back into factory spec but you should be able to get camber and toe set. The caster won't be able to be put back into specs but that isn't really a big deal as it doesn't wear tires, just make sure that the cross caster (difference between the left and right) is within spec and you should be ok.
 
I hear you on the alignment. I did have to drive a few miles on the freeway yesterday and it seems to handle and steer just as well if not better than before. I can't really see much difference in ride height up front but, like I stated before, it did lift the rear about an inch. Here are a before and after photo. Not much difference.



Before:

[Broken External Image]:



After:

[Broken External Image]:
 
blksn8k,



Can you tell me the part numbers you used? Was it the RS999924, RS999927, RS999939, and RS999942? I am getting ready to put a new set of tires, brakes, etc., on mine. Wouldn't mind doing like you and doing everything at the same time.





Thanks,



David
 
Thanks. Have you played with the adjustments yet? Sounds like the standard settings will work fine, but just curious if you dialed on them yet and had any better results.





David
 
According to the Rancho site the Explorer lift is advertised as 1.75" front and 1" back. I'm interested if you got the 1.75" in the front? Pictures look nice and vehicle appears to have some of the front rake gone.
 
If anything the rake is more pronounced now than before since I think I gained about an inch in back and less than an inch in the front. My guess is that vehicle options have an effect of how much height each vehicle might gain. For example, I would expect that a V6 Trac would gain more lift in front than a V8. The rake doesn't really bother me. I was more interested in gaining a little rear tire clearance when loaded or towing.

I still have not touched the shock adjustments. Too busy doing other stuff and it works great where they are set now.

By the way, I had the alignment done today. They found and replaced a worn tie rod end so it was definitely worth it.

Before that I had to make a road trip over the weekend of about 400 miles. I was obviously concerned about tire wear and at every stop I would feel the tires for excess heat. Nothing unusual and no noticeable wear. I was even towing an empty utility trailer on the return leg. I either got lucky or those BFGs are some tuff SOBs.
 
I just put a set on my STA AWD. Initial setting at 7 as I'm gonna take the trailer out soon. Sits a bit higher, but I like the Rake with my larger sidewalls (I downsized to 18' Cobra Wheels and put 265/65-18's) It doesn't look funny. Rides nice unloaded.
 
Chris,



Did you need to use spacers when you switched to the Mustang wheels and if so how thick?

Thanks.
 

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