Replacing brakes...

[FlipTrac_511]

I got my Centric brake rotors and pads and I was wondering if there was anything else that needed replacing. Are there parts on the calipers that need to be replaced? I hate to put in all new discs and pads on all corners only to have squeeking because of some little part I didn't replace.



Also, do I really need to go through the bed-in process or is that overkill for a daily driver? I mean, I don't know of many places where I can do 60mph-10mph cycles or what not.



Thanks in advance...

 

[TRACket Paul]

Drive as usual, avoid severe braking for the first few hundred miles.

 

[FlipTrac_511]

That's what I'm figuring Paul, thanks. Sometimes I read too much into things.

 

[Todd Z]

There are clips on the calipers that should be replaced and check the pivot mounts, some times the rubber expands on them and they are stiff and need some TLC...



As for bedding them, I just drive slow, 20mph or so, slow the truck to 10 2-3 times, then to a stop 2-3 times...



Then go from 20 to a complete stop Easy pressure and then from 40.....



Then i take it easy for a little bit...



Thats just me, may be overkill, but i don't have any problems with the brake jobs i do..



Todd Z

 

[FlipTrac_511]

Thanks Todd, if I find I need to replace the items you mentioned, are they readily available at the local auto shop?

 

[Todd Z]

the pins are the clips may not be....... I got the clips from ford....



Todd Z

 

[Jerry Gerner 2]

Like Todd Z mentioned, just take it up to about 20-30 and stop regularly a couple times and they should be seated in place. You never want to do the 60-10mph because that will glaze the new brake and or possibly warp the rotors as well.

:smile0006::banana:

 

[zaffo oxnard]

After two sets of pads from the parts store I went to the dealer and got my last set of pads which included new hardware (anti rattle clips). Make sure you really clean everything and apply the lube where recommended. Clean and lubed with new pads and rotors, you should not have any issues.

 

[Tom S]

While you're at it, get a quart of synthetic brake fluid, siphon most of the old fluid from the brake fluid reservoir, add in some new stuff, purge/bleed new fluid to all 4 calipers (remember to keep topping off the reservoir so it doesn't go empty).



After changing the fluid in my 03 ST, stopping distances were much shorter, pedal feel improved greatly, brake dust on the front wheels didn't accumulate as quickly, and the truck stopped considerably more level without any nose-dive. I'd highly recommend to anyone thinking the braking on their truck is inadequate... the results were pretty impressive.



winc

 

[mookie]

winc:

While you're at it, get a quart of synthetic brake fluid, siphon most of the old fluid from the brake fluid reservoir, add in some new stuff, purge/bleed new fluid to all 4 calipers (remember to keep topping off the reservoir so it doesn't go empty).

After changing the fluid in my 03 ST, stopping distances were much shorter, pedal feel improved greatly, brake dust on the front wheels didn't accumulate as quickly, and the truck stopped considerably more level without any nose-dive. I'd highly recommend to anyone thinking the braking on their truck is inadequate... the results were pretty impressive.

Are you saying that synthetic fluid reduced the amount of brake dust on your wheels and made the truck nose-dive less? These two things have nothing to do with brake fluid.

 

[Tom S]

Actually, it does... not necessarily because it's synthetic, but because the fluid is new. The old fluid compresses due to moisture, contaminants & over-heated fluid that accumulate over time & use, which the new fluid doesn't. There's more line-length (more volume of fluid) going to the rear than the front, so during pedal application the effectiveness of the rear brakes with "old" fluid had diminished. Now when the pedal is depressed, the rear brakes are doing their part more than they had before, the front pads aren't doing the majority of stopping, which makes less brake dust on the front wheels. Since the rears are more effective, the nose of the truck dives less, especially in hard braking.



I'm not saying it's something you NEED to do... just saying I did it and had great results. Thought I'd pass on what worked for me. If your brake fluid is looking more grey than clear, it'll probably work for you too.

 

[Doctor CAD]

75 to 80 percent of your braking will always come from the front end.



Physics don't change because of a fluid change.

 

[EddieS'04]

Physics don't change because of a fluid change.

Exactly...



Also verify if you system will accept synthetic brake fluid some wont. Depends on seal composition. If it will. You have to flush thouroughly. Not just bleed.

 

[Richard L]

Flush out all the old brake fluid by opening the bleeder valve on the calipers before you push the pistons back into their bores. Then after you get the new pads and rotors installed, bleed all 4 brakes until the fluid coming out is as clean as the new fluid going in.



If you just push the pistons back in without openening the bleed valve, you are pushing that old contaminated fluid back up into your ABS system and that can cause a very expen$ive repair.



Depending upon your mileage, you might consider buying some rebuilt calipers, especially if the fluid you flush out is really bad looking. The dark color of the old fluid is caused by the rust and corrosion of the caliper bores from the moisture trapped in the old fluid.



I make it a rule to install rebuilt calipers with every brake job. It's fairly cheap insurance that my brakes will function at their best for a long time.



Some autopart stores will offer a 50K mile or even a Lifetime warranty on their rebuilt brake calipers so you never have to pay for calipers again for as long as you own your vehicle.



...Rich