Sound Deadener

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Jacob Dryer

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I just ordered 80 sq of Second Skin sound deadener. I plan to do my floor with 2 layers and 1 layer on the roof.



My plan is to give a halfway scientific breakdown of the value (or disvalue) of adding sound deadening materials to your ST.



As it stands right now Woppy helped me out by letting me take some readings in his truck with my sound meter. Basicly door deadening does nothing for sound levels in the cabin. However I'm certain it improved sound quality from my aftermarket sound system. But I don't have any scientific way of proving that.



Both his truck and my truck on average had the same cabin level of sound volume which at 55 mph was approx 87 db (don't have my notes in front of me right now) so after I do the floor and roof I will give a nice break down of the complete project/picture of the benifit or lack of benifit.



I hope there is someone else out there that cares :p
 
I am interested to see how this turns out. Good idea JD.



I had installed Brown Bread sound deadening to the floor of my 91 Explorer and I did notice a difference. Your results should yield what you have predicted.



Have fun.
 
This will be my first experience with Second Skin, however comparing the specs on both Dynamat extreme would be marginally better than Second Skins Damplifier. However I can get 80 sq ft of Damplifier shipped for cheaper than I get get 80 sq ft of Dynamat extreme and I get Dynamat at about 50% off retail prices. So for the money it appears that SS is the way to go.



The link below is a little old, but it has a lot of info if you are interested.
 
Cool.... LET us know....

Todd Z
 
Yes Rodger there would by paper be a benefit. I think that someplace I read 1.5ish layers of Damplifier is approx the same as 1 layer of pro.
 
Happy Hunting my man. Unfortunately I don't think that my Trac will be of any use for your next set of readings... the exhasut would most likely throw off the reading something awful.
 
Even doing just the doors (inner and outer) makes a HUGE difference and lets your speakers really perform at their best. 4hrs @ door and $150 B-Quiet materials was definitely worth it. :cool:



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Go to Lowe's they sell some stuff for roofing that workes just as good and is a ton cheaper, only disadvantage is it comes in a 6" x 25' roll so it isn't in as big of sheets but only cost about $12 a roll one roll will do about a 1/2 of a floor or trunk area. I will try to get the name off of it next time I go there. I need to get some more to finish up the floor in my Focus.
 
Ranger you are talking about Peel & Seal and I won't pretend to have the info about if that is good or bad. What I will say is that the guy that did all the research in the link below does not recommend that at all. And I feel my trucks interior is worth it to spend the money.



If you don't feel like reading the specifics. Basicly Peel & Seal is asphalt and has a lower temp tolerance than butyl which is what all of the higher quality sound deadeners are made from. So asphalt melts and gets gross (potentinally since I'm only regergitating info I've read) whereas butyl does not.



**Spelling nazi's leave me alone, I'm a few beers in and I can't spell sober.
 
I recieved my deadener today. So hopefully wed I can get the roof done and get some sound level measurements. The floor won't be done for another week or so though I don't think.

 
Now at the risk of sounding stupid, (don't say a word you guys:D), when you say "inner" and "Outer" door, what do you mean? Are you saying to put it inside the door and also on the metal under the door panel? If so, how do you get it on the inside the door? Just wondering.;)
 
I didn't do my inners, but my outers are completely covered (all 4 doors), it didn't make any difference in road noise, but I think it improved speaker response. I say think because I did it while I was installing my speakers so I didn't listen to them before/after deadener.



 
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