Synthetic Oil in '07

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JohnnyB

JohnnyB

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I was talking ot my parts guy today as asking on his thoughts on if I should use synthetic oil in the '07. He said that a good number of new cars are coming from the factory with synthethic oil.



Does the '07 ST already have synthethic oil in it?



All I have seen is that it takes 5W20.
 
I know ford played games with the 5w20, First it was a blend, then it wasn't, I don't think they know what they want to do...

Todd Z
 
The Ford spec for oil would be the 930A and it does not allow the deposits or the oil exceeding its respective viscosity range under extreme conditions. The oil that meets specs and is labelled as such is a pretty darn good oil. Most of the oils meeting this spec will be a minimum GpII+ or better basestock. The difference between the Gp II+ and a dino synthetic Gp III is the viscosity index or in general terms it won't make the transition from a 5w viscosity oil to a 30 viscosity fluid at temp without help from an additive, usually a polymer. Otherwise, the blends turn in the lowest wear metals in the Triton series of engines. The PAO synthetics are great if you have artic conditions or want extended oil changes. They are not "slicker" as they do not have more lubricity but the basestock will hold up longer for the extended oil change intervals. For the average driver, there are no benefits to using a synthetic oil. For the oil companies, they would much prefer you to use the synthetics as they make a bundle from their advertizing hype. In looking for an oil, it is a good idea to use one that has a decent amount of moly in the formulation. Oils like Havoline, Chevron Supreme, and Pennzoil will have a minimum 300 ppms moly. These oils are turning in the lowest wear metals but even Walmart oil is a decent oil now. If you have issues using a xw-20 oil and just can't buy off on the good attributes of this oil, buy an Energy Conserving oil in the 5w-30. The 930A oils will all be at the top of their respective viscosity range while the 929 oil (5w-30) will be at the thinnest part of their respective viscosity range. That means that they are fairly close to being the same viscosity at temp and shouldn't create problems or fuel mileage issues. Your money and my .02
 
Trapper L, I was under the opinion that the PAO base oils offer better cold start lubrication which is where most wear occurs. You appear to have a good knowledge of oils, can you shed light on the amount of sythetic vs non-synthetic oils by percent is in a synthetic blend. By definition 1 drop of either would make it a "blend"
 
Trapper - It's so darn good that the the spec's are switching to an oil change every 7,500 miles (vs. 3,000) for the recommended oil, starting next year.
 
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The PAOs are manufacturered in two types and in various molecular weights. The types are polar and non-polar. With the use of polar PAOs, the film is attracted to the parts like a magnet. Sounds great-right? Wrong, because the film strength is so strong, the additive package can't get in to do its job and wear is accelerated. Mobil will use an alkylated napthalene to cut the film strenght and provide for a binder to mix the add packs. PAOs do not supoort the additives and will not mix with them without a binder. The other type of PAO is the non-polar type. It is not attracted to the parts and will run off of the internals of the engine and back to the pan. Tackifiers are used to attempt to cure the issue. On long runs between changes, don't count the tackifiers to work as good as when new. Both types have issues. Winter wear metals using PAOs will be 50% or more greater than that of a regular dino base oil due mostly to corrosion. PAOs of any kind will have more favorable flow at extreme cold temps like -35F. If you have that kind of cold start up temps, you need to be using a PAO basestocked synthetic oil. A Gp III dino synthetic will not be as good such as Castrols Syntec.

Concerning the percentage of synthetic to make a blend. It is industry driven and 10% is considered a minimum. The most percentage of Gp III basestock would be Phillips Trop Artic at 60% synthetic Gp III.

Extending oil changes to 5000 miles and certain engines to 7500 is not really a problem anymore. The oils have improved dramatically in the last ten years alone. Engine developement has made great strides as well. The lean burn engines of today with their management systems are far, far cleaner than the engines of the early 90's. Many years ago when we used leaded gas, the analysis would come back for lead at like 350 ppms and iron of 400+ and this was for a 3000 miles OCI. Iron today for most Triton engines at 5000 miles is just barely double digit like 20 or less. Some of the clean burning is also attributable to the fuels we use today. It's on the drawing board, oil changes by dealers only at 50,000 miles. First reports are promising. Filters will not only filter but also have time release additive packages in them. The ones I have seen are about the size of a half gallon can and filter to 3 microns. That's quite an accomplishment.
 
The PAOs are manufacturered in two types and in various molecular weights. The types are polar and non-polar. With the use of polar PAOs, the film is attracted to the parts like a magnet. Sounds great-right? Wrong, because the film strength is so strong, the additive package can't get in to do its job and wear is accelerated. Mobil will use an alkylated napthalene to cut the film strenght and provide for a binder to mix the add packs. PAOs do not supoort the additives and will not mix with them without a binder. The other type of PAO is the non-polar type. It is not attracted to the parts and will run off of the internals of the engine and back to the pan. Tackifiers are used to attempt to cure the issue. On long runs between changes, don't count the tackifiers to work as good as when new. Both types have issues. Winter wear metals using PAOs will be 50% or more greater than that of a regular dino base oil due mostly to corrosion. PAOs of any kind will have more favorable flow at extreme cold temps like -35F. If you have that kind of cold start up temps, you need to be using a PAO basestocked synthetic oil. A Gp III dino synthetic will not be as good such as Castrols Syntec.

Concerning the percentage of synthetic to make a blend. It is industry driven and 10% is considered a minimum. The most percentage of Gp III basestock would be Phillips Trop Artic at 60% synthetic Gp III.

Extending oil changes to 5000 miles and certain engines to 7500 is not really a problem anymore. The oils have improved dramatically in the last ten years alone. Engine developement has made great strides as well. The lean burn engines of today with their management systems are far, far cleaner than the engines of the early 90's. Many years ago when we used leaded gas, the analysis would come back for lead at like 350 ppms and iron of 400+ and this was for a 3000 miles OCI. Iron today for most Triton engines at 5000 miles is just barely double digit like 20 or less. Some of the clean burning is also attributable to the fuels we use today. It's on the drawing board, oil changes by dealers only at 50,000 miles. First reports are promising. Filters will not only filter but also have time release additive packages in them. The ones I have seen are about the size of a half gallon can and filter to 3 microns. That's quite an accomplishment.
 
So after all the tech talk ... is there synthethic in the '07 or not?
 
thanks guys.



I figure I will change the oil/filter with a regular blend at 2K miles just to get out any possible shavings or whatever from the new engine. then at 5K go with a full synthetic oil/new filter and maintain every 5K there after.



sounds good?
 
re: Synthetic Oil in '07 by Darin,7/15/2006 11:41 CT



too funny.... even a Ford employee doesn't know.
Click to expand...



Hell-- I can't figure out what my own employer is doing half the time. :(



Johnny B-- you have it right in your last post. Go ahead and put synthetic in right away. I use Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 oil filters and change twice a year (~6,000 miles for my Trac; ~12,000 miles for wife's Liberty). I figure I am getting the best protection I can get for a mininmum of work and hassle (and save money).
 
Since first Oil change i have been using full synthetic in my '02, changed every 5 000 Kms or so, have not noticed any seal leaks or any problems.



Don Monkeyboy
 
I switched my 2003 Sport Trac to Mobil-1 at it's first oil change and have had no ill effects except a little better gas mileage. I averaged nearly 21 MPG on my trip to Louisville, KY last month.



I switched my 2001 Sport Trac to Mobil-1 at about 10K miles and it ran flawlessly until I traded it for my 2003 model at 42K miles.



I also switched my wife's 2003 Saturn Ion-3 to Mobil-1 at it's first oil change (3K miles) and it's mileage improved dramatically... from 27 MPG to 31 MPG, but it only has 12K miles on it.



...Rich
 

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