Theft light blinking fast

[blert]

So the day started off with a dentist appointment so it couldn't get any worse. Right? Wrong...
All done with the appointment and happily leaving the Devil's Den. Truck won't start. Won't even try. Figured battery, right? Wrong, battery is good. Had it checked at two places. Even checking it myself... resting voltage 12.8v.
OK, then I checked every fuse. All fine.
Relay clicks when I turn the key to start but just for grins I swapped the starter relay(49) with the blower relay(55). Same.
Pulled the relay back out and jumped pins 30 and 87. Starter spins the motor but does not start.
Tried the system reset of 8 key twists. Nope.

So, the theft light blinks normally every two seconds until I put the key into the start position. Then it starts to blink fast. I only have the one key. Someone got something for me to try or I am stuck going to Ford for a nice gouging?

 

[blert]

After a bit of research and a chat with a local locksmith that can program our keys... I have found that it is, most likely, the PATS transceiver. This is not a guaranteed fix though. Before I buy the part and give it a try... got anything else I should be looking at so I don't just start throwing money at it?

 

[Evox]

Ahhhh ...PATS, what a wonderfully useless and frustrating system.

Unfortunately, there is no one quick fix. You need to scan your PCM for faults and see what comes up. You're looking to see if your system recognizes your key. I can't remember the code. I'd need to look it up. But if it turns out to be your transceiver, it's fairly easy to replace. I somehow flashed a key, killing it during a troubleshooting session with my cluster. The spare key I had worked.

 

[Evox]

 

[blert]

Where does one get the scanner and software this bloke in the video is using? Looks like it is probably very expensive though. Have a recommendation for a scan tool that can do this stuff but doesn't cost a kidney?

I have the covers off and it is just a quick swap to change the transceiver. I could have the new part by Monday if I order tonight. It's only 40 bucks so it might be worth it just to give it a try.

Locksmith said he would make me a spare key for $100.

 

[Evox]

Where does one get the scanner and software this bloke in the video is using? Looks like it is probably very expensive though. Have a recommendation for a scan tool that can do this stuff but doesn't cost a kidney?

I have the covers off and it is just a quick swap to change the transceiver. I could have the new part by Monday if I order tonight. It's only 40 bucks so it might be worth it just to give it a try.

Locksmith said he would make me a spare key for $100.

It does cost a kidney.

But a good modest scanner will tell you if your key or the transceiver is the problem. When my key got wiped, I could tell it was either my key or the transceiver, which were the first and second pain in the ass things I could fix. In my case, it was the key I didn't have to replace the transceiver. But either of those problems is easy to fix.

 

[swshawaii]

Research FORSCAN. Laptop and ELM327 adapter required. Search, many more articles. GL

Solved - Everything you wanted to know about PATS.

 

[blert]

Research FORSCAN. Laptop and ELM327 adapter required. Search, many more articles. GL

Solved - Everything you wanted to know about PATS.

Great thread there, thanks.

Found FORSCAN last night. If my reasoning is correct... I can get a $50 adaptor and a 2 month free license to FORSCAN and program a new key myself? This would be nearly half the cost of having a locksmith do it, much less actually because the original quote for one key was $150.

 

[blert]

Found another video by the guy in the one linked above where he showed cleaning up the PCM ground fixing a PATS issue. Didn't have much faith in this "fix" but figured I would give it a try.
Took the PCM ground "bolt" off the firewall and hit it with a wire wheel. Took sandpaper to the firewall and sanded off a spot of paint and cleaned up the ground terminal itself. Used dielectric grease to protect the ground area.
Did not fix the problem.
Did the same to the ground wire/bolt at the battery and changed the negative battery terminal because it was cracked.
Did not fix the problem.

 

[ReggieT]

Never used it, but Lowes has a machine that is supposed to copy all keys including the embedded chip info. Wouldn't hurt to try and I do believe Lowes will take it back if it don't work. I am just not sure if you chip has been discharged or something by bring that dentist grinding tools near the key. Something to think about.

 

[blert]

Never used it, but Lowes has a machine that is supposed to copy all keys including the embedded chip info. Wouldn't hurt to try and I do believe Lowes will take it back if it don't work. I am just not sure if you chip has been discharged or something by bring that dentist grinding tools near the key. Something to think about.

Thanks. I'll run out there tomorrow and see what they say.

 

[WarHorse1961]

I haven't posted here in quite some time but I wanted to chime in on this one. I have the exact same thing happening with my 2007.

The issue is very intermittent. Most of the time it works great, other times not so much. I was thinking it was temperature related, it seems to be good in winter and bad in summer, but that could be my imagination.

I have a Bluetooth ODBII reader and can access it using FORscan Lite on my phone. I don't have the codes available right at the moment but will post them the next time it occurs.

I can tell you that when this happens I simply use FORscan to clear the codes and the truck will start. Sometimes I clear the codes 1 time, other times I have to clear codes up to 10 times.

Does clearing the codes really do anything? I have no idea, maybe it's just a coincidence, but it sure seems like it works.

I'll be watching this thread to see what your solution is.

Good luck.

 

[blert]

Reading through the "everything you wanted to know..." thread posted above, I started wondering about the flashing codes. So...
Put key in and turn on. The "theft" light will blink fast for one minute and then it will start blinking a code at you. Problem is I don't think I am interpreting the flashes correctly. I think it might be '22', or maybe '11', I hate blinky codes. Could you folks take a look at this video and let me know what you think please?



I found a few more codes then the "everything..." thread has listed and will post them a little later just to have them achieved somewhere I can easily find them again. I'm going to buy a scanner and get FORScan if the new part doesn't solve this because I freaking hate blinky codes.

Update: I just learned that it supposedly blinks the code at you ten times before it turns off. Time for me to go back and analyze these blinks some more.

 

[blert]

Here's a pdf with DTC codes (and some other info you may find useful like the type of system your vehicle has, '01j2 is PATS-E) if you have a scantool that can read them...
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pdf/pats_job_aid.pdf
I grabbed these blinky codes from this video. Some of these won't apply here but I am listing them anyway...

11 : No connection between module & transceiver coil.

• Check transceiver coil and wiring condition.
• Check engine ECU multi-plug connection.

12 : No data received from lock barrel pick up.

• Check key has not lost micro chip.
• Try spare key.
• Check transceiver coil and wiring condition.
• Remove metal objects from key ring.
• Immobilizer control unit faulty.

13 : No key code received.

• Check key has not lost micro chip.
• Try spare key.
• Check transceiver coil and wiring condition.
• Remove metal objects from key ring.

14 : Incomplete key code.

• Check key has not lost micro chip.
• Try spare key.
• Check transceiver coil and wiring condition.
• Remove metal objects from key ring.

15 : Incorrect key.

• Key needs to be programmed to vehicle.

16 : No data between modules.

• Check wiring and connectors between ECU and PATS module.

21 : Less than three key codes stored.

• 3 keys must be programmed to system.

22 : No data between modules.

• Check wiring and connectors between ECU and PATS module.
• Check wiring and connectors to diesel pump.
• Immobilizer control unit faulty.

23 : Data mismatch between PCM and instrument cluster.

• Requires reprogramming.

31 : Incorrect code to diesel smart module.

32 : No connection to diesel smart module.

33 : Bad connection to diesel smart module.

 

[blert]

From watching my video, timing, and counting things, it looks to me like...
blink - 2sec pause - blink
4sec pause
blink - 2sec pause - Blink
4sec pause
...
Continues on repeating ten times.


I found the "repeats ten times" info here...
https://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php/PATS_Immobiliser_Fault_Codes
Some codes can also be found here...
https://uk.autologic.com/news/top-tip-ford-1... with some slightly different descriptions, but they all seem to jive with each other.

Use this info as you will as I cannot guarantee the validity of any of it but it is what I have found while trying to find a fix for this.

 

[blert]

Vroom Vroom Baby!!!!
Switched out the transceiver and she started right up!

On a related note...
What does this blue thing do?..

It's not held on by much and when I took off the old transceiver the little clip piece that holds it in was broken and the whole blue thing is floppy. I wrapped electrical tape around it to hold it in place.

Oh... if you are needing to order the transceiver it is...
p/n: 1L5Z-15607-AA
Don't worry that the part in your truck says 1L5T-15607-AE. What comes in the bag is labeled with that part number.

 

[swshawaii]

Great call. In this case the transceiver was your first instinct. Glad your starting issue was an easier fix than the gauge cluster fiasco @Evox went through. Congats blert, well deserved with the research you did.

After a bit of research and a chat with a local locksmith that can program our keys... I have found that it is, most likely, the PATS transceiver. This is not a guaranteed fix though. Before I buy the part and give it a try... got anything else I should be looking at so I don't just start throwing money at it?

Vroom Vroom Baby!!!!
Switched out the transceiver and she started right up!

 

[blert]

Great call. In this case the transceiver was your first instinct. Glad your starting issue was an easier fix than the gauge cluster fiasco @Evox went through. Congats blert, well deserved with the research you did.

Thanks. I really should have scanned it first. Throwing money at a problem is rarely a good idea. Everything seemed to point to this though. Going to order an OBDLink_EX soon just to have it on hand for future issues.

 

[faztudoconstrucao]

Olá, meu nome é Rogério, sou do Brasil, comprar preciso uma antena imobilizadora número 1L5T-15607-AE. onde posso comprar por um preço melhor?

 

[blert]

Olá, meu nome é Rogério, sou do Brasil, comprar preciso uma antena imobilizadora número 1L5T-15607-AE. onde posso comprar por um preço melhor?

Hello Rogério. Can you buy from eBay or Amazon? Look for part number 1L5Z-15607-AA (see the end of post #16 above).

Olá Rogério. Você pode comprar no eBay ou Amazon? Procure o número de peça 1L5Z-15607-AA (consulte o final da postagem nº 16 acima).