Time to upgrade the brakes

[Mark Stadnicki]

I started getting a slight crunchy/grinding noise on drivers front brake when slowing down to a complete stop. She (2010 ST) brakes fine at all speeds with no wobble or pull on the original un-turned rotors with 106k miles and Wagner Thermo-quiets with less than 20k miles. I guess DC beltway commuter driving at NASCAR speeds it not for this set up! :driving: Time for some slotted/dimpled rotors and better pads...



<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/user/StadEMS3/media/IMG_20130521_195909_994_zps3720cb00.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j178/StadEMS3/IMG_20130521_195909_994_zps3720cb00.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20130521_195909_994_zps3720cb00.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/user/StadEMS3/media/IMG_20130521_200254_959_zpse57d8fd4.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j178/StadEMS3/IMG_20130521_200254_959_zpse57d8fd4.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20130521_200254_959_zpse57d8fd4.jpg"/></a>

 

[swshawaii]

Surprising at 20K. My ThermoQuiet Ceramics have been nothing short of stellar.

 

[Mark Stadnicki]

I know, I bought the ThermoQuiets because of all the rave reviews they got. They still have plenty of meat on them too. I'll need to take it easy on these until the new stuff comes in.



Ordered this set-up from RockAuto-

 

[Vic Sorlie]

I put the same setup on my 08 STA. Love them.[Broken External Image]:

 

[Tim Thackston]

Good luck!

 

[Henry Suarez]

Its odd that if you buy the parts seperately at Rock Auto, it is cheaper than buying the kit.

 

[EddieS'04]

beltway commuter driving at NASCAR speeds it not for this set up!

The hair line rotor cracks are from heat. But I dont see any bluing color in the rotor. That usualy goes' with the heat.

Cant answer why the pads are cracking. Always heard they were good pads.

I drive my '04 like a jackrabbit. Performance Friction pads on stock rotors have been good to me. No cracks or discoloring... The PF pads love the heat. They bite harder from the heat.



IMO, slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors for street service. Not necesary. Only the type of pad for your driving style.

 

[Tim Thackston]

Thought i would chime in after the fact. The rotor and pad cracks in the photos are not much to be concerned with at this time. With that being said, on race cars w/o slotted rotors, its common to see cracking pad suorfaces, and slight rotor cracking from real "fun" use! Depending on the rotor size, each measurement will vary, we would change the rotors if they had any gap in the crack,or were no more than 3/4 of an inch long.

Next, I use only Hawk HPS pads on everything I sell, or have built. My prefrence. But real world racing, auto crossing, off road pre running have kept me buying the Hawk pads for over 20 years.

As far as rotors, notice you wont see any NASCAR cup cars running cross drilled rotors, only slotted. Cross drilled, although cool looking, on a stock OEM rotor, remove far too much surface area to really be effective under hard use like the way I use my rigs. Slotted is the best choice of the two simply because it takes away very little surface area compared to cross drilled. Cross drilled and slotted together on an OEM rotor, oh boy!!! Again, for normal everyday running, go for it. It looks cool. But actually really reduces braking distance. Most wont notice, but gearheads that drive to near limits, will notice pretty quickly. All they do to compensate is to mash on the pedal harder! lol As long as you are happy, we support each other in here and wish you the best my man! :grin: