The problem is back. But is REALLY intermittent. Lasted almost two days without acting up. Oh, and it's been parked the whole time, so...
The only thing I can be absolutely sure it's not.
-battery-good
-alternator-good
-ignition switch-new (now I'm just throwing parts at it)
-ignition switch plug-inspected, checked, and good, put a new seal on the ignition switch plug, connected to switch, and torqued to spec.
-ignition key cylinder-replaced new (more throwing parts at it)
-headlight/driving/parking/dimmer switch-replaced new (still more parts being thrown at it)
I've gone through every fuse/relay/diode; all test good, no short found. I've checked plugs for corrosion, used electrical cleaner everywhere.
When the instrument cluster is going nuts, and by nuts I mean it beeps, the odometer flashes XXXXXXXXXX then goes to faint dots and dashes ...,.........., sometimes the message center flashes "Check gauges," sometimes "Low Fuel." If the radio is left on when the truck was turned off, it joins in on the fun and comes on for a few moments, as do the cabin lights if the dimmer switch isn't turned all the way off. I can hear various relays clicking open and closed...then everything goes off and settles down.
Except the faint dots and dashes .............. on the odometer. But sometimes those go off as well. Sometimes it stays off for minutes at a time; sometimes, it cycles through over and over again. Sometimes it just beeps and does the XXXXXXX on the odometer; sometimes, the "Check Gauges" or "Low fuel" message stays on. Sometimes, it doesn't. Sometimes all of this goes off for long periods of time, only to start over again.
Checking for parasitic draw using my multimeter, nothing comes up a couple of hundred milliamps.
I think it's time to burn this truck up or part it out. I'm frustrated and sick of this crap. I'm going to pull the dash cluster and look for cold breaks under a magnifying glass, but this is power being BRIDGED to somewhere, not broken. And again, when the truck is running, everything operates as normal. No electrical problems, no system problems, and no codes being thrown.
Does the instrument cluster circuit board have switches or maybe diodes on it that are malfunctioning?
I checked for broken or frayed wires in the harness from the body to door and could find none. BUT my driver's lock switch is dead. I don't think that's the problem because when I pull the fuse for the door locks, the cluster still goes nuts. But I remember reading something about the driver door switch causing weird problems. The search function on the website doesn't seem to be working, or I can't get it to come up with anything.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Edit to add: This afternoon, I took out the ignition key cylinder again. made sure I cleaned all the contacts, and so far, no problem. The way this has gone, I'm not hopeful that somehow I fixed it. The cylinder seemed clean. Also, this is a southeastern car, so corrosion isn't a big problem.--so maybe it was the ignition switch or lock cylinder. I used the Motorcraft lock cylinder kit on the lock cylinder so I wouldn't have to re-key it. It's a fairly simple procedure, take your time, and you should have no problem.