JOHN TLOCKOWSKI
Member
The wireless remote control will allow you to install after market fog or driving lights without the hassle of running wire into the cabin of the Sport Trac, installing an on/off light switch and hooking up the appropriate wire(s) behind the instrument panel.
If your ST has the tool tray installed, remove the six (6) retaining bolts using a 8mm socket.
Remove the battery from the vehicle. This will allow you to access the sheet metal structure between the battery and the front of <P>the vehicle where you will mount the remote control relay and control box.
If you can't slide under the front of the vehicle with ease, jack up the vehicle and support it with a jack stand or two.
<P>
Remove the three (3) 8mm and four (4) 10mm bolts holding the plastic protective splash shield from the bottom of the radiator. There are two (2) plastic push type pins that will also have to be pulled out. Just pull down on the splash shield and the pins will pop out.
Remove the left parking light assembly by removing the one Phillips head retaining screw and disengage the two retaining pins from their receptacle by pulling the light assembly toward you. Remove the bulb and plug from the light assembly and set it aside. You need to remove the parking light to gain access to the parking light wire harness to splice in one of the wire from the remote control wire harness.
<P>
Remove the headlight assembly by pulling up on the two retaining clips to disengage the assembly from the vehicle and set it aside. Removing the headlight assembly will allow you access to route the remote control wire harness through the access hole behind the headlight into the engine compartment.
Connect the remote control BLACK (power) wire to your fog/driving light power wire. The remote control BLUE (ground) wire is not used if you already have your fog/driving lights wired up. If you are installing fog/driving lights for the first time, hook up the BLUE ground wire to your light assembly ground wire. In my case, the KC Hightlites I were installing had a large ground wire terminal instead of the bayonet type connector that is used in the remote control wire harness assembly. I connected the KC ground wire to each of the tow hook mounting bolts. Worked great as the ground wire terminal was large enough for the tow hook bolt to pass through.
<P>
Route the remote control wire harness form the right hand (passenger side) fog/driving light to a position in front of and at the bottom of the radiator.
Secure the wire harness using the wire ties that come with remote control kit. I ran the two wire ties though the small slots in the bottom of the radiator housing to secure the harness.
After connecting your left side fog/running light to the remote control wire harness, route the harness up and through the access hole behind the headlight assembly.
Route the wire harness through the headlight access hole and across the sheet metal structure in front of the battery box. Plug the relay and control box into their appropriate connectors and position them along the sheet metal structure. Mark the location of the relay and control box mounting holes on the sheet metal structure and drill two small holes that will accept the sheet metal screws and secure the relay and control box.
<P>
At this point you will have three (3) wire left in the harness. The GRAY wire is the antenna and can be positioned anywhere you want. I routed mine back through the headlight access hole and just let it dangle.
<P>
The RED wire with the inline fuse, is to power the remote control harness, and can be hooked up either directly to the positive side of the battery or in my case to the accessory connection block on the backside of the fuse box.
The GREEN wire is connected to either the parking light power wire or the headlight power wire depending on what type of after market lights you are wiring up. In my case, I hooked my KC Fog lights up to the left parking light. The parking light power wire is the center of the three (3) wires that are in the connector. The wire color is BROWN. Peel back the protective tape from the parking light harness and fish out the BROWN wire from the plastic wire loom. Use the wire connector supplied with the kit and splice the GREEN wire from the remote control harness to the BROWN parking light power wire. I then wrapped the wire connector and parking light wire harness with electrical tape.
Reinstall the battery, turn on your parking/headlights and press the on button on the remote control and waa laa your lights should come-on.
<P>
If everything operates ok, then reinstall the headlight and parking light assemblies, the tool tray if you had one to take out, and the protective splash shield from the bottom of the radiator. And lastly, if you had to jack-up the vehicle for easy access, remove the jack stand(s) and lower the ST back to the ground.
<P>
The remote control unit comes with a holder (held on with double sided tape) that you place conveniently somewhere on the dash. The location is up to you. I haven't yet decided where I'll locate my holder, so for now I've temporarily hung the remote control unit on the cigarette lighter by its key chain.
Install completed.
And working!
If your ST has the tool tray installed, remove the six (6) retaining bolts using a 8mm socket.
Remove the battery from the vehicle. This will allow you to access the sheet metal structure between the battery and the front of <P>the vehicle where you will mount the remote control relay and control box.
If you can't slide under the front of the vehicle with ease, jack up the vehicle and support it with a jack stand or two.
<P>
Remove the three (3) 8mm and four (4) 10mm bolts holding the plastic protective splash shield from the bottom of the radiator. There are two (2) plastic push type pins that will also have to be pulled out. Just pull down on the splash shield and the pins will pop out.
Remove the left parking light assembly by removing the one Phillips head retaining screw and disengage the two retaining pins from their receptacle by pulling the light assembly toward you. Remove the bulb and plug from the light assembly and set it aside. You need to remove the parking light to gain access to the parking light wire harness to splice in one of the wire from the remote control wire harness.
<P>
Remove the headlight assembly by pulling up on the two retaining clips to disengage the assembly from the vehicle and set it aside. Removing the headlight assembly will allow you access to route the remote control wire harness through the access hole behind the headlight into the engine compartment.
Connect the remote control BLACK (power) wire to your fog/driving light power wire. The remote control BLUE (ground) wire is not used if you already have your fog/driving lights wired up. If you are installing fog/driving lights for the first time, hook up the BLUE ground wire to your light assembly ground wire. In my case, the KC Hightlites I were installing had a large ground wire terminal instead of the bayonet type connector that is used in the remote control wire harness assembly. I connected the KC ground wire to each of the tow hook mounting bolts. Worked great as the ground wire terminal was large enough for the tow hook bolt to pass through.
<P>
Route the remote control wire harness form the right hand (passenger side) fog/driving light to a position in front of and at the bottom of the radiator.
Secure the wire harness using the wire ties that come with remote control kit. I ran the two wire ties though the small slots in the bottom of the radiator housing to secure the harness.
After connecting your left side fog/running light to the remote control wire harness, route the harness up and through the access hole behind the headlight assembly.
Route the wire harness through the headlight access hole and across the sheet metal structure in front of the battery box. Plug the relay and control box into their appropriate connectors and position them along the sheet metal structure. Mark the location of the relay and control box mounting holes on the sheet metal structure and drill two small holes that will accept the sheet metal screws and secure the relay and control box.
<P>
At this point you will have three (3) wire left in the harness. The GRAY wire is the antenna and can be positioned anywhere you want. I routed mine back through the headlight access hole and just let it dangle.
<P>
The RED wire with the inline fuse, is to power the remote control harness, and can be hooked up either directly to the positive side of the battery or in my case to the accessory connection block on the backside of the fuse box.
The GREEN wire is connected to either the parking light power wire or the headlight power wire depending on what type of after market lights you are wiring up. In my case, I hooked my KC Fog lights up to the left parking light. The parking light power wire is the center of the three (3) wires that are in the connector. The wire color is BROWN. Peel back the protective tape from the parking light harness and fish out the BROWN wire from the plastic wire loom. Use the wire connector supplied with the kit and splice the GREEN wire from the remote control harness to the BROWN parking light power wire. I then wrapped the wire connector and parking light wire harness with electrical tape.
Reinstall the battery, turn on your parking/headlights and press the on button on the remote control and waa laa your lights should come-on.
<P>
If everything operates ok, then reinstall the headlight and parking light assemblies, the tool tray if you had one to take out, and the protective splash shield from the bottom of the radiator. And lastly, if you had to jack-up the vehicle for easy access, remove the jack stand(s) and lower the ST back to the ground.
<P>
The remote control unit comes with a holder (held on with double sided tape) that you place conveniently somewhere on the dash. The location is up to you. I haven't yet decided where I'll locate my holder, so for now I've temporarily hung the remote control unit on the cigarette lighter by its key chain.
Install completed.
And working!
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