Chris R 2
Member
Starting a discussion thead regarding my installation of an OE replacement of the Upper Control Arms (UCA) on my ST. (Sorry hdt!)
First:
:worthless:
I'll post some later today after I've had my morning caffeine. I am using this thread to share my experience in tackling this project. I try very hard to adhere to proper maintenance procedures but I often find that some creative engineering is required on the part of the mechanic. If corrections need to be made please let me know.
Yesterday, I decided to tackle the process of replacing the bushings in my factory UCA. I knew going into this that the project would be rather difficult. I rented a Ball Joint press kit from Advance Auto Parts ($99) and set upon the process of jacking up the truck and removing the Left wheel assembly. The workshop manual recommended placing a jack under the LCA and securing the hub to prevent damage to the CV and brake line. I used a bungee cord on the wheel spindle, which worked quite well.
Project for: 2004 Sport Trac (4x4 or 4x2)
Removing the old UCA:
1. Loosen and remove the pinch bolt and nut from the front wheel spindle.
2. Remove nuts and bolts from the upper arm. (See *1) (See *1a)
3. Using a mallet or hammer remove the upper control arm from the wheel spindle. Upward blows will unseat the arm.
(*1) Here, I have an aftermarket camber kit on both arms. The bolts are much longer than factory and removing them on the left side is a royal pain. The fuel line is mounted directly behind and along the corner of the right side of the UCA. To remove the bolt I had to dismount the shield protecting the lines, unbolt a harness behind the mount point, and remove the lines from a small bracket. Once this was done I simply used the open end of a wrench to gently push the lines away from the bolt to allow removal. Installation in reverse order.
(*1a) When removing camber bolts, I suggest marking the side of the bolt facing outward (you) with a sharpie or other method. While maintaining the alignment is rather unlikely, it may help during reinstallation.
Option 1: Replacing Bushings.
1. Using a small pry bar, remove the sleeves protecting the old bushing. Some outward force is required but will work.
2. Configure Ball Joint Press kit and push old bushing out of UCA mount.
3. Replace Bushing using press kit using factory or appropriate aftermarket bushings. (See *2)
4. Re-mount UCA, camber bolts. 98 FT LB torque on bolts. (See *1 for left arm)
5. Using a mallet or hammer, reseat the ball joint into the wheel spindle. Note: the knuckle (small rounded edge) needs to be flush with the pinch bolt hole. Re-mount pinch bolt and torque to 41 FT LB.
(*2) There are aftermarket kits out there that require the use of some of the original hardware on the UCA bushings. In particular there is a metal sleeve that would need to be removed and repurposed in the new bushing. I found that the sleeve is not removable on the factory bushing...
Option 2: Replace UCA.
Purchase an approptiate aftermarket or OEM UCA. (I bought Dorman OE kits 520-221 and 520-222)
1. Inspect replacement kit. Some kits have greasable ball joints. If necessary lubricate the bushings and joints. I used silicone spray then silicone grease.
2. Install arm. Align bushings and insert camber bolts. Recommended torque 98 FT LB. (See *1 for left arm)
3. Seat ball joint to wheel spindle and secure by using the included pinch bolt. (See *3)
(*3) if you cannot seat the knuckle deep enough to mount the pinch bolt, use a small pry bar to wedge the wheel spinde slightly wider while you knock the arm. You will see a vertical cut if you look at the inward side of the spindle. I also used a little marine grease to protect the area since I noted corrosion on the old knuckle. Jacking the LCA higher can help with clearance if needed.
---
I typed all this on my smartphone. Whew.
First:
:worthless:
I'll post some later today after I've had my morning caffeine. I am using this thread to share my experience in tackling this project. I try very hard to adhere to proper maintenance procedures but I often find that some creative engineering is required on the part of the mechanic. If corrections need to be made please let me know.
Yesterday, I decided to tackle the process of replacing the bushings in my factory UCA. I knew going into this that the project would be rather difficult. I rented a Ball Joint press kit from Advance Auto Parts ($99) and set upon the process of jacking up the truck and removing the Left wheel assembly. The workshop manual recommended placing a jack under the LCA and securing the hub to prevent damage to the CV and brake line. I used a bungee cord on the wheel spindle, which worked quite well.
Project for: 2004 Sport Trac (4x4 or 4x2)
Removing the old UCA:
1. Loosen and remove the pinch bolt and nut from the front wheel spindle.
2. Remove nuts and bolts from the upper arm. (See *1) (See *1a)
3. Using a mallet or hammer remove the upper control arm from the wheel spindle. Upward blows will unseat the arm.
(*1) Here, I have an aftermarket camber kit on both arms. The bolts are much longer than factory and removing them on the left side is a royal pain. The fuel line is mounted directly behind and along the corner of the right side of the UCA. To remove the bolt I had to dismount the shield protecting the lines, unbolt a harness behind the mount point, and remove the lines from a small bracket. Once this was done I simply used the open end of a wrench to gently push the lines away from the bolt to allow removal. Installation in reverse order.
(*1a) When removing camber bolts, I suggest marking the side of the bolt facing outward (you) with a sharpie or other method. While maintaining the alignment is rather unlikely, it may help during reinstallation.
Option 1: Replacing Bushings.
1. Using a small pry bar, remove the sleeves protecting the old bushing. Some outward force is required but will work.
2. Configure Ball Joint Press kit and push old bushing out of UCA mount.
3. Replace Bushing using press kit using factory or appropriate aftermarket bushings. (See *2)
4. Re-mount UCA, camber bolts. 98 FT LB torque on bolts. (See *1 for left arm)
5. Using a mallet or hammer, reseat the ball joint into the wheel spindle. Note: the knuckle (small rounded edge) needs to be flush with the pinch bolt hole. Re-mount pinch bolt and torque to 41 FT LB.
(*2) There are aftermarket kits out there that require the use of some of the original hardware on the UCA bushings. In particular there is a metal sleeve that would need to be removed and repurposed in the new bushing. I found that the sleeve is not removable on the factory bushing...
Option 2: Replace UCA.
Purchase an approptiate aftermarket or OEM UCA. (I bought Dorman OE kits 520-221 and 520-222)
1. Inspect replacement kit. Some kits have greasable ball joints. If necessary lubricate the bushings and joints. I used silicone spray then silicone grease.
2. Install arm. Align bushings and insert camber bolts. Recommended torque 98 FT LB. (See *1 for left arm)
3. Seat ball joint to wheel spindle and secure by using the included pinch bolt. (See *3)
(*3) if you cannot seat the knuckle deep enough to mount the pinch bolt, use a small pry bar to wedge the wheel spinde slightly wider while you knock the arm. You will see a vertical cut if you look at the inward side of the spindle. I also used a little marine grease to protect the area since I noted corrosion on the old knuckle. Jacking the LCA higher can help with clearance if needed.
---
I typed all this on my smartphone. Whew.
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