Voltage Stabilizer: Sham or Not?

[Thomas Rogers]

It sounds like we are all saying the same thing...for spec, leave well enough alone, and if adding new components consider some upgrades and additions.



But, just to be sure....



Mike C says:

Improving components above minimum spec values either increases the performance ( such as voltage drops to headlights being reduced) or increases reliability

Though I agree that might be the case for certain solid-state components like phase-lock loops on antenna circuits, that simply isn't true for electronic components that use TTL, computer chips and the like. For electronic components in the latter category as long as you have a clean, minimum spec DC voltage to the components they will work just fine. Increasing that voltage from 3.3v to 3.35v does no good whatsoever. If the system is delivering the minimum spec, than the component works nominally.



That was the point I was trying to make about minimum spec. A given electronic module will have a min and max voltage as defined in the spec, and you will know if your ST isn't up to the min. And, when I read the eBay listing about the stabilizer and its comments about "increased performance", I took that as engine performance, which just doesn't make sense given the electronic (not solid state) nature of its controlling systems.



Tiger says:

One of the best ways to overheat a circuit is through poor wire, either too small or poor conductor, kinks, cutc, knicks, and poor connections. Improve any of these, and you'll increase the reliability of said circuit, and make the circuit preform better because the electricity isn't working as hard. Same reason why people add intakes and exhuasts...

Yes, but that would assume that the electrical engineers at Ford have cut corners and haven't done a good job. I give them more credit than that. I am pretty confident that the rewiring of my ST and changing out connectors will more likely do harm than good, assuming that was all I was doing (meaning: I am not also trying to add new components).



Tiger, you are right that as you increase resistance you increase the voltage drop and thus the heating. Comparing upgraded wiring in an ST to an upgraded exhaust just doesn't make sense to me, though. Yes, maybe you can upgrade the wiring, improve the connectors and so forth, but for WHAT PURPOSE? If the current wiring works, is reliable and serves it purpose (doesn't burn out, etc), then it meets the demand of the system. I have seen no studies that changing out anything will increase reliability/longevity of any of the electrical components, but I would be very eager to see them.



Yes, I can see how improved wiring, connectors and what not can "increase the electrical capabilities" of your ST by allowing you to install beefier components and appliances, etc...but I don't see it "improving the performance" of your existing components, not in any noticeable way that is.



It's kinda like going around your house and upgrading all your romex and replacing all the circuits to 30amp breakers, and then commenting on how your old coffee maker and the old bathroom lights seem to WORK SO MUCH BETTER. That's different than upgrading because you want to add more components or components with higher loads as in this case you are adding capacity.



So, yes, upgrades can increase capacity in order to serve high load after-market parts (whether added or used to replace OEM) and even make for a cleaner source for more demanding components; but the only way that upgrades will increase the performance of the OEM components is if Ford truly did a poor job engineering the electrical system (in other words, it is shody and doesn't meet the demand). I kinda doubt the latter, but given Ford's "trac" record, who knows!



TJR

 

[Travis Munday]

I'm not trying to say that Ford cut corners, I'm simply saying the the factory stuff isn't the best of stuff. Many people replace thier intakes. Does the Ford one work fine? Yes. Did Ford cut corners in the stock one? No. Same goes for exhuast systems. Just because it came from the factory a certian way doesn't mean that it's the best it can be.



The upgraded exhuast and intake analogy is as follows: upgrading certian components of an entire system can improve the system across the board.



The same WHAT PURPOSE?? logic could be used for ANY upgrade. Some benfits are more tangible for some modifications then others. Many people seem to forget that in order for an engine to work, it must have a very powerful, and CLEAN, spark. If your engine isn't getting maximum voltage to the coil, then the spark isn't a powerful and clean as it could be. Several people here have installed upgraded spark plug wires...all in the pursuit of a cleaner spark.



Several people, including myself, have upgraded headlight wiring harnesses. They are relay triggered and feature high gauge wire with a battery direct hot feed, and a battery direct ground. The result is brighter headlights. Now imagine ig your entire ground and main power transmission wires are upgraded, the potential for brighter lights all around isn't far fetched. Even an increase of .5V to a bulb is a benefit.



Now, you might not be an audiophile, so if you aren't, one of the worst enemies of an aftermarket system is noise. Noise from signal wires crossed over power wires, noise from long or improper grounds, etc. The noise from the ground is caused from the alternator, but how can that be? The alternator is grounded to the engine, which is grounded to the firewall, which is connected to the body, which is then grounded to the frame. Long way to go for a ground. Now, a "hyperground" system would ground the alternator back to the battery, the onlt "earth" ground on a vehicle. The result? Cleaner audio signals.



The potential for benefit is there, if you want to see them or not. At least one car company, Mitsubishi, offers a hyperground system as an accessory (on the Evo VIII and now IX). Now, why would they offer this if there wasn't some benefit to be had? The more you ask of an electrical system, the better and more robust it had better be. The modern car has a lot of electronic gizmos on it, but about the only differences in the electrical systems of today and of cars 20 years ago is little more then higher amp alternators and bigger batteries.

 

[Tom Schindler]

The factory wiring works great for a stock system. Upgrade your stereo, lights, etc. and you need to upgrade wiring.





Tom

 

[Michael Cacioppo]

TRJ said

Yes, but that would assume that the electrical engineers at Ford have cut corners and haven't done a good job. I give them more credit than that. I am pretty confident that the rewiring of my ST and changing out connectors will more likely do harm than good, assuming that was all I was doing (meaning: I am not also trying to add new components).

All automotive engineering is a compromise between functonality, reliability and cost. Does Ford have a problem with the 5R55E transmissio n 2-3 flare? Yes. Are there aftermarket fixes with new relays and valving? Yes. A case of OEM that can be improved. Obviously it met minimum spec. Have you noticed the size of the headlight wires? Pretty small even for the OEM bulbs. Better wiring would allow less voltage drop and therefore brighter lights but that would involve a higher production cost in an area that MOST people wouldn't notice could be improved.



TRJ, I'm sure that you have put a scope on an automotive electrical system. There is a lot of noise that needn't be there if a few more bucks were spent on suppression. Automakers design for the bell curve of performance and reliability. It's OK if you are near the center, but often times some of us are on the edges of the curve. Don't forget automakers design the parts to last greater than 3 years or 36000 miles. My goals are higher.

 

[Thomas Rogers]

MikeC says:

Have you noticed the size of the headlight wires? Pretty small even for the OEM bulbs. Better wiring would allow less voltage drop and therefore brighter lights but that would involve a higher production cost in an area that MOST people wouldn't notice could be improved.

Show me the studies, please. Seems like a pretty easily proven statement. All one needs is some new wire and a light gauge. I can't disagree that better wire can help a circuit that has components on it that draw more power than the wire/circuit can supply. But if the wire is already sufficient, upgrading the wire won't provide a benefit.



Upgrading a highway from two to four lanes doesn't help traffic flow if the current two lane road isn't congested. That's the way I feel about your statement. If the headlights are already as bright as they can be upgrading the wire isn't going to do anything. The voltage drop across the wire that is there, and its connectors vs the wire and connectors that you replace it with isn't going to vary that much ohm-wise, unless of course you had a bad connection to start with...really bad. And, a minor change in ohms isn't going to change the light intensity perceptibly, at least I doubt it. Figure out a way to increase the voltage, sure, than we are talking.



I am not saying you can't improve on what is there, I am simply trying to make the point that I am skeptical that any upgrades will improve the performance or reliability of any of the OEM components...but as I said, I would be encouraged to see documented results instead of postulation.



TJR

 

[Thomas Rogers]

Caymen says:

The factory wiring works great for a stock system. Upgrade your stereo, lights, etc. and you need to upgrade wiring.

Right, that is what I have been saying.



The current electrical system and its components were spec'ed for the stock components and they work great. And there should be no real benefit in upgrading them if you are going to stick to stock.



However, if going aftermarket you should expect to have to revisit the system and make upgrades as needed.



I agree with you 100% Caymen.



That's why I asked LB to post exactly what types of new components he was going to add, and what their loads were, etc.



TJR

 

[Thomas Rogers]

Tiger...



Agh, so you elaborate. Thanks that helped.



Tiger said:

Several people, including myself, have upgraded headlight wiring harnesses. They are relay triggered and feature high gauge wire with a battery direct hot feed, and a battery direct ground. The result is brighter headlights. Now imagine ig your entire ground and main power transmission wires are upgraded, the potential for brighter lights all around isn't far fetched. Even an increase of .5V to a bulb is a benefit.

I suspect our disconnect here is on the term "upgrade". When I think of an upgrade to an electrical system, I think replacing a connector with another type of connector, or replacing a wire with another guage of wire. What you describe above as an UPGRADE sounds to me like a REDESIGN (you changed the ground wiring system...adding Battery direct connections , right?). That's a whole different story in my book as that is changing the design.



Yes, if you want to go the drawing boards so to speak, and change circuitry (new circuits, additional ground wires, etc), then sure, you can no doubt improve the performance of some of the OEM components as you did in the headlights.



That is NOT what I expected when you guys UPGRADES. I was thinking exchange part for part (as you would when changing your exhaust system), and not thinking adding additional wiring, rerouting, etc. But maybe that's not what you meant.



So YES, YES, you guys are right. If you are going to go BACK to the drawing board so to speak on the electrical system I am ABSOLUTELY SURE you can improve it.



TJR

 

[Michael Cacioppo]

TJR, there are many articles documenting the voltage drops and the lower voltage presented to the headlight bulbs resulting in lower light output. Having said this I will actually go out and measure the voltage to my headlights with the standard circuit and then with a larger wire circuit. I will report back the results. I do not have a light meter but I assume that you will agree that a voltage increase of 10 to 15 percent will achieve a noticeable increase in lumen output for a halogen type filament bulb.

 

[scott r]

ROTFLMAO!!! For those of you who haven't read KaleCo's site, you should. Check out their "performance" section. I can GUARANTEE you that there are people out there asking to buy that crap. I especially love the O-pipe, which is guaranteed to give you 100% backpressure in the exhaust. The asbestos radiator insulator is freakin' hilarious.

 

[Michael Cacioppo]

I went out and measured the headlight voltage (low beam) on my Saturn (easier to get to the harness) With the car at idle the battery voltage was 14.4V. The low beam voltage with factory wiring was 12.7 volts. With upgraded wiring directly from battery with heavier gauge wire was 13.6V. The bulb is noticeably brighter with the higher voltage. BTW the bulbs are stock 55 Watt 9006 bulbs. TRJ, there really is room for "improvement" even when using stock accessories in my opinion.

 

[Thomas Rogers]

MikeC says:

With upgraded wiring directly from battery with heavier gauge wire...

As I said, Mike, that seems more to me like a design improvement, not an upgrade...that has been our disconnect. Improvements like that in design surely will increase performance for stock.



In other words, YOU ARE RIGHT...but you are talking about something that I wasn't think was an upgrade.



TJR

 

[Michael Cacioppo]

I guess it is the semantics. I would consider this an upgrade. A less restictive intake and a less restrictive exhaust are upgrades that will show a benfit. However, I do agree with the fact that many "upgrades" are not required except if additional equipment is placed into service.



This is a forum for discussion and exchanging of ideas. And as such, I want to thank Rich Stern again.

 

[Thomas Rogers]

Yup, I do think of a "A less restictive intake and a less restrictive exhaust as upgrades", but typically you swap out parts to do that...you don't bypass the ones that are there with new stuff.



GOOD DISCUSSION!



TJR

 

[LB]

Wow guys! Never thought I'd spark this! HAHA. But ditto TJR, great discussion.



Regarding what "upgrades" I am installing consist of simply this (all emergency lighting):

-ShoMe Bi-directional Headlight Flasher

-Whelen Talon

-Whelen 90watt Strobe Kit [(1) 90watt Strobe Pack and (6) 90watt strobe tubes)

-ShoMe Slim Lights (2)



Now, where these accessories (except for the strobe pack and strobes) don't pull this much while driving (as I would assume) once on scene, I do not wish to turn off the Slim Lights and Talon. However, due to the excessive pull from the strobes and strobe pack, as well as the headlight flasher, I will have to turn these off.



Post-installation, I ran my headlight flashers without the engine on, simply accessory. The battery was drained (to the point where it would not crank) within minutes. THIS IS NOT GOOD. Thus I have to be sure to turn them off when the engine is not running. Since the strobes pull twice as much as the headlights, I would assume that if I left BOTH on, my battery would be discharged in even a quarter of that time.



By upgrading to an Optima battery, or as stated by MikeC, an Orbital or Exide battery, I have been told that this would provide a longer duration before the battery would start to lose its charge with these accessories powered on.



All in all, I'm trying to prevent my alternator from burning up with the ADDED amperage pull while in transit, as well as to prevent my battery from dying while in the middle of BFE putting out a lousy grass fire. It's embarrassing having to ask for a "jump" when I can prevent it.



LB

 

[Michael Cacioppo]

LB, your alternator is capable of putting out about 130 amps, more than enough when you are on the road. I don't think that will be a problem for you. You might consider a second battery hooked in with a battery isolator. The second battery would be isolated from your normal load battery so that it could be used at a jump start battery in case your standard battery is drained. Just a thought.



I had one on my F150 and it worked out fine. The problem you might have is finding space for the second battery. It was not a problem with a full sized F150.

 

[LB]

Mike. What is a battery isolator?



I would assume it "isolates" the two batteries from each other but still allows the secondary to keep a charge off the primary?

 

[Michael Cacioppo]

A battery isolator is a solid state device that allows both batteries to see the output of the alternator and thus maintain a charge when the engine is on. The two batteries are "isolated" from each other , inasmuch as battery B is independent of batter A ( as long as they are not connected through a common load). This way, battery A is free to start the truck, run the lights, etc. without having any affect on the state of charge of battery B. It is usually used in a manner where battery B is used to operate equipment, not attached to battery A, when the engine is off. Situations that might occur when camping, using voltage converters to operate AC equipment (tools, etc.). It can also be used in a mode more suitable to your situation, as a starting reserve battery, if your main battery runs down. This site will give you some idea about them. There are many other manufacturers. I include this site for info only. JC Whitney and others sell them as well.

 

[LB]

Thanks Mike!