What is done when rebuilding a tranny?

[Chris Kulbaba]

I recently had my transmission rebuilt.... It is not up to par and going back in today to have it looked at again. The original problem was a tranny flair from 1st to 2nd, and this is still happening not as much as originally. But I read on consumer reports that it could be a solenoid problem, and was wondering if a tranny rebuilt should include this replacement?



Thanks! I just want to be prepared for any "additional costs" that they may try to hit me up for.

 

[Todd Z]

Well, ( they are supposed to ) dis assemble the trans, Test and inspect everything, Install rebuilt converter and replace worn or broken parts.



The problem is they never test any thing, most of the rebuild kits come only with clutches and springs and seals. The solenoids and the EPC regulator should be replaced when it is rebuilt. But if the tranny is just worn, they will not replace the solenoids.

They can be costly, but if your solenoids where week or sticking, that should have been tested.

I know the place i deal with always replaces all solenoids and EPC.. It does add $$ to the rebuild cost, but it never comes back

Todd Z

 

[Michelle Widell]

I honestly wonder if transmission problems are overdiagnosed. When mine had the 1-2 shift problem a couple of years ago (about 40k I think?), they wanted to rebuild the entire transmission. (They wanted a lil over $1,600 for the rebuild.) I did some research on the web - it was having issues shifting from 1st to 2nd, and would instead do 1st - attempt to shift to 2nd - then shift to 3rd. 2nd is actually 1st and overdrive. Some info I dug up said that the resolution was to have the valve body serviced (new gaskets, springs, whatever), so I printed that out and took it to the tranny shop. They said "yah, that will fix it.... but we're concerned as to how long you have been driving with this problem and that the clutch plates would be glazed." The problem happened the same day I dropped it off at the tranny shop, so I told them to do only what I have authorized.



$520 or so later, and I'm back on the road. That was over 50k miles ago - no problems.



I really wonder...

 

[Chris Kulbaba]

So should I be telling them that the solenoid should have been replaced, and that I am not willing to pay for it?



Im going to get tough with them today, ive printed out a lot of things that ive read about this repair... firstly I dont think it ever needed to be rebuilt, just have the solenoid problem repaired.



I am a manager of a company with 15 vehicles that use this mechanic (He took my car to a tranny shop, and this is thier doing, but non-the-less his problem now) I have stopped ALL of our vehicles from going to his shop, and will not return to them until mine is repaired.



He's already lost out on about 10k worth of work that I had done to our vans elsewhere... doing 'spring' maintenance.

 

[Chris Kulbaba]

Michelle,



This is DEFINATELY the case.



I had mine rebuilt, because I trusted the mechanic, he does all our maintenance, but subs out his tranny work apparently.



I paid $2000CAN for the rebuild, and I have to following problems that I am taking it back today to have looked at.



Tranny squeels at idle in drive.



1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd, cant really tell but this still slips when the vehicle is cold.



When on the highway, when in passing gear it makes a loud squeek and slams out of gear to the next gear.



I am SO pissed off that I cant even explain, all the stuff ive done to my ST is just worthless with the tranny the way it is.



I am going there today with a better knowledge of the problem thanks to everyone here.



If there is any mention of money that I need to pay, I will then tell him that we will no longer use them, even tho this is the case already.



NOTE TO ANYONE WITH THIS PROBLEM: Either take it somewhere and tell THEM what the problem is, and if they suggest a rebuild, make sure that it is needed, and not just a quick fix.



I would also say that you SHOULD take it to the dealer, I mean they charge more but atleast you will have it repaired, I wish I did now, i'd have happily paid the $500-1000 to make sure it was fixed, and under some kind of warranty from the dealer.

 

[Chris Kulbaba]

Well I just took it back, and kinda got a blank stare when I mentioned that I think it was misdiagnosed, and should have been an $800 repair, not $2000.



Lets see how good these people are to thier good customers :\

 

[Thomas Rogers]

Yeah, Chris when you see hoofprints think "horses" not "zebras". The more common early-mile tranny problem which manifests in intermittent, poor shifts is a bad pressure control solenoid, and that's usually well under $1000 to fix; depending on the tranny and how much has to be taken apart to get to them.



My wife's 2004 Mountaineer has had the solenoid replaced at about 15K miles; and just had some additional "tinkering" (yolk repacked???) done on the tranny yesterday at 29K (harsh shifts, lurches).



All work so far on it done under warranty, and it's a leased vehicle that we have one more year on, and we are DEFINATELY turning it back in. We got a good deal on the vehicle (paying $340/month, nothing down for a totally decked out Mountaineer...leather, moonroof, third seat, the works). After 36 months we will just WALK AWAY.



TJR

 

[Richard L]

Michele is correct about the Sport Trac transmission problems. The problem is caused by sticking valves in the valvebody. This sticking can increase the slipping and wear of the clutches and bands in the transmission due to the excess heat that damages the fluid.



Also, the sticking valves are controled by electric solenoids that weaken over time and continue to operate slower and increase the shift flare.



It's possible that your transmission was repaired and the old valvebody and solenoids were reused, which defeats the whole purpose of the rebuild. The valvebody and solenoids are the first thing that should be repaired and that only requires dropping the pan. If that does not fix it then the clutches and bands may be worn, and you are looking at a rebuild.



In most cases Ford would replace the valvebody and solenoid pack if the transmission was acting up while under warranty. If the warranty was up, well then you needed a complete rebuild. :wacko:



...Rich

 

[Michelle Widell]

It's been awhile since I've delved into this issue.. I have a post a couple of years ago that has some links that discuss the valve body issues. From what I googled today, it's the valve body separator plate that has an "improved designed", per TSB 03-22-10 (there my be other TSBs as well).



Text of the TSB...



FORD: 1995-2001 EXPLORER

1995-2002 RANGER

1996-1997 AEROSTAR

2000-2002 EXPLORER SPORT

2001-2002 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC

MERCURY: 1997-2001 MOUNTAINEER





This article supersedes TSB's 03-11-9, 02-13-8 and 02-08-2 to update the model coverage.



ISSUE:

Some vehicles built prior to 12/1/2001 may exhibit the following shift and engagement conditions:



No 2nd Gear

No 3rd Gear

No Engine Braking In Manual 1st.

Out of specification pressures controlled by the transmission main control valve body separator plate may be the cause.



ACTION:

Verify the condition, the main control valve body separator plate may need to be updated to the latest level. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.



SERVICE PROCEDURE



CAUTION: A NEW SEPARATOR 7Z490 MUST BE USED WHEN INSTALLING THE SPECIAL SERVICE KIT 7M203 OR ADDITIONAL TRANSMISSION DAMAGE MAY OCCUR. REFER TO THE PARTS APPLICATION CHART IN THIS ARTICLE FOR CORRECT SEPARATOR PLATE PART LISTING.







NOTE: THIS ARTICLE DOES NOT APPLY TO ANY OTHER CONDITIONS OR COMPONENTS THAT MAY CAUSE SIMILAR SYMPTOMS AND IS ONLY WRITTEN TO COVER THESE SPECIFIC CONDITIONS.







NOTE: AN IN-LINE SERVICE FILTER IS NOT REQUIRED TO BE ADDED OR REPLACED FOR THIS TSB.







Verify that one or more of the following conditions exist.

Low Line Pressure While In Drive At WOT

No 2nd And/Or No 3rd Gear

No Engine Braking In Manual 1st

DTC P0732, P0733 Or P1762

Install Kit (3L5Z-7M203-JA) to update the main control valve body assembly, refer to the installation procedures found in the kit.

Reinstall the main control by continuing to follow the installation steps listed in the Workshop Manual, in-vehicle service, main control valve body.

After completing the procedure, verify the condition has been corrected.

Clear all DTCs.



Part Application Chart

Vehicle Application Engineering Description Qty. New Service Part Use on Transmission Application 7000 -Reference Only-

95/96 Models ONLY

95/97 Models Separator Plate to Case Gasket 1 2L5Z-7C155-AA ALL

95/97 Models Separator Plate to Main Control Gasket 1 2L5Z-7D100-BA ALL

95/96 Models - ALL Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F5TZ-7A008-CA 95GT-AA/BA/CA/DA/EA/FA/ GA;96GT-BA/CADB/EB/FA/ GA/HA/KA/MA/NA

97 Models ONLY

97 2.3L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-AB 97GT-GC

97 3.0L OHV Ranger/Aerostar Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-AB 97GT-EC/FC/MC/NC/RE/SE

97 4.0L OHV Ranger/Aerostar Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-CB 97GT-KE/LE

97 4.0L OHV Explorer/Mountaineer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-DB 97GT-KF/LF

97 4.0L SOHC Explorer/Mountaineer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-EB 97GT-AE/BE

1998-2001 Models ONLY

98/01 2.5L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-DA 98GT-GA; XL5P-CA

98/00 3.0L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-EA 98GT-EB/FB; XL5P-AA/BA

98/00 4.0L - EI Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-FA 98GT-KB/LB; XL5P-DA/EA/FA

98/00 4.0L - EI Explorer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-GA 98GT-CB/DB; XL2P- EA/FA

98/00 4.0L - SOHC Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-HA 98GT-AA/BA; XL2P- CA/DA

2001-2002 Models ONLY

2001/2002 2.3L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-AA 1L5P-CA

2001/2002 3.0L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-BA 1L5P-AA/BA

2001/2002 4.0L-SOHC - ALL Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-CA 1L5P-DA/EA

ALL MODELS <B