'04 Trans service/flush w/o filter change?

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Adam Smith

Active Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2003
Messages
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Location
San Diego, CA
What engine do you have?
V6 engine
What year is your Sport Trac?
2004
What Generation is your Sport Trac?
1st Gen Owner
Finally got my brakes done at just under <35K: ceramic pads, rotors turned, fluid flushed. New fuel filter as well (Motorcraft). Picked up a transmission filter (automatic tranny), and 16 qt. of Mercon V from Ford, but the mechanic said to get a refund on the filter (screen). With his system, the "latest", the new fluid is pumped in as the transmission is flushed, much like flushing the brake fluid, and "there is no need for replacement of the screen". I had him hold off anyway.

Any comments?

Seems like the screen would have debris in it that might not get flushed.

Thank you!
 
i would not do it thier is still trash in the bottom of the pan and filter. I had a car that was slipping just a little so I had that type of flush done and it finished out my trans. The mechanic who replaced my trans said if I would have done a pan drop my trans might been ok but the flush finished it off

 
I've heard many say the flushing method is preferred because it, well...flushes, flushing out all the old t-fluid. Whereas, dropping the pan and changing the filter leaves some old fluid in the tranny.



That said, when I took my '04 to the dealer for its 30k tranny service, they dropped the pan and replaced the filter. Normally, I would have done this myself but with the issues these transmission reportedly have, I thought best to have an official record of the work being doen at the dealership.



IMHO, I think the flushing method was designed to make things easier, not necessarily better.
 
Most of the larger particles will get trapped in the filter, BUT the smaller particles get suspended in the fluid and will pass right through the filter. I refuse to call it a screen because it is a paper element and not a screen like your window screen, which some transmissions do have....



Since you have only 35K I say do the 100% fluid flush now and then do a filter service at 60K... Unless your towing/racing/ or just beat the heck out of it , then I say do both...



Todd Z
 
What is the cost of something like this? Flush and Filter Change??

I need to get it done soon.... Plus it feels like it slips alittle between first and second?? Might this help? Last time I had this happening the Dealer changed some sort of seal and it went away.... But I am out of Warranty now...



Cheers

Whit
 
Good ideas. Drawback to filter change and then flush is (I think) they usually run the vehicle in gear on rollers with full tranny case of (old) fluid and flush via replacement with new fluid (that I have bought).

Thanks for further ideas.
 
No need to run the vehicle on rollers, that could actually hurt the transmission....



the best thing would be do the 100% flush first, then change the filter and clean the pan..



What I am doing is I dropped the pan at 18K, 100% flush at 25K and installed a pan with a drain plug...



Now I am doing the drain and fill every 20K or so, then at 65-70 I will do another filter change...



IT is overkill but I am hard on the tranny and don't need any thing to happen..

Todd Z
 
Can you clarify: if I flush first, that involves pumping in the new fluid. But then when I drop the pan to change the filter, do I lose all that fluid I just put in? Or can they drain it and capture it and put it back in? Thanks.
 
Again, the same arguments about tranny flushes vs dropping the pan an changing the filter.



The transmission filter does not serve the same function as the engin oil filter. If it did, it would probably clogg up on about 1K-2K moles. The transmission does not deal with combustion by-products that create acid and sluge.



The transmission filter is more like a strainer than a filter. It only blocks the larger pieces of debris that get sucked up by the pump. Nearly all the matierial that gets blocked by the filter will fall to the bottom of the transmission pan when the engine is shut off and the transmission pump is no longer pumping fluid.



Once they fall down into the pan, any ferrous metal particals are trapped by the magnet in the pan. The other non-ferrous metals or clutch friction material will also fall harmlessly to the bottom of the pan, and since they are heavier the too fall to the bottom of the pan and do not create any problems. Any partical that is small enought to pass through the filter is too small to cause damage to the transmission.



The transmission is not threatend by the debris that sits in the bottom of the pan...That stuff is not circulating through the transmission. The real threat to the transmission is heat and the heat problems is very cyclic.



When your transmission fluid gets hot, it can be become burnt and damaged. If the transmission is burnt, it does not perform it's job as well, causing the transmission to slip slightly when shifting. This slipping of the friction clutches and bands generate even more heat, which further increases the damage to the transmission fluid.



Transmission fluid is used as much for it's hydraulic and cooling properties as it is a a lubricant. If the fluid is not changed regularly the fluid will turn to a gummy varnish-like substance that will coat the parts and harden and is what really distroys transmissions.



Transmission filters were always changed when the fluid was changed because you had to drop the pan to change the fluid (very few vehicles have ever had transmission drain plugs), so it made good sense to change the $7-$10 filter while you had easy access to it. In truth, the transmission filter only needs to be changed every 100K miles if the fluid is changed or flushed regularly.



Since the transmission relies heavily on the fluid that is not worn out, getting as much of the old burnt fluid out will do more good for your transmission than changing the filter. That means that a transmission flush removes about 97%-98% of the old fluid from the transmission, transmission coolers, and torque converter than a conventional fluid change where the pans is dropped and only about 50% of the fluid actually drains out.



Many auto manufacturers have gone to using 100% synthetic transmission fluids and only require tranmission service every 100K miles. That means no fluid changes, and no filter changes for 100K mmiles. Typically these tranmission don't even have a dipstick so you never have to check the fluid level. Of course if you see a transmission fluid leak, you need to get it into a shop to repair that leak.



You will probably hear a lot of disagreement about transmission flushes vs fluid/filter changes. Most of the old school mechanics will claim you MUST change the filter, buy that's not true today with modern synthetic and semi-synthetic fluids used on these late-model transmissions. I actually have some serious doubts that changing the transmission filter was ever as necessary on the older cars as much as it was one of those "Since you have to drop the pan to change the fluid, You might as well change the filter" items.



I know of a lot of people who drove vehicles for 200K miles with the body nearly rusted off and never once changed their transmission fluid. In fact the transmission was probably the only thing working right on the whole vehicle
 
Thanks for the good info Richard. Would you suggest getting synthetic tranny fluid when it's serviced?
 
TomT,

Yes, I always recommend using a 100% synthetic, Mercon-V compatible fluid.



I have had both of my Sport Trac's trannies flushed at a local Kwik-Kar lube center. They use a fully compatible synthetic fluid. It requires 14 quarts to flush out and replace about 98% of the old 10 quarts of fluid in the transmission. My transmissions in both Sport Trac's have run flawlessly after the flushes and my old 2001 actually had crisper shifts and better acceleration after the fluid flush.



Another advantage of the flush is that you don't have to worry about leaking pan gaskets because some bozo over tightened the bolts and crushed the gasket.



...Rich
 
Very interesting info, RichardL; thank you. I have bought the Motorcraft filter and Motorcraft fluid (non-synthetic I believe) from Ford. Is is possible to do a flush, then drop the pan to have the filter changed? Is it possible to reclaim the new fluid after dropping the pan? It seems that if I drop the pan and change the filter first, then do the flush, the old fluid will then circulate and any debris will then go through the new filter. Am I missing something obvious?

Thank you.
 
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