2003 Sp Trac Intermittent Starting Problems

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H

Harry H

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Aug 23, 2003
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Location
Eads, TN
03' Trac w/184k miles.

Engine turns over and fires, but stumbles and quits or it runs (extremely rough) for a few seconds then quits. Only does this occasionally but recently has been doing it more often (like 1 out of 10 starts). Here's the strange thing... I can try over and over and it won't start, but if I let it set for about 20-30 minutes, it starts perfectly normal and runs and drives smoothly.

I've done a lot of reading on the forum and assume it is the fuel pump, but wanted to check if anyone else has any ideas.

Other info: I've recently changed the fuel filter but it did the same thing with the old filter as well as the new. I've also tried cycling the key a few times to build up fuel pressure, but that doesn't seem to help it start. The check engine light goes out on start, so I'm assuming it's not the crank sensor. I checked the inertia switch and it doesn't seem to be getting hot and looks to be in good shape. Not throwing any codes either.

Again, just looking for ideas or I'll go ahead install the new pump.



Thanks in advance

Harry
 
I think I would have the fuel system tested before replacing the fuel pump (expensive and a pain of a task).



On the initial fail, how long has it sat?



Is this one of the years with the PCV valve elbow problem?



Have you cleaned the IAC valve? It's easy and inexpensive (two beers, max).



Have you checked the spark plugs and wires? Really looking for a loose wire or something.
 
How old are the plug wires? Had the same issue with a Chrysler van and changing out the plugs and wires solved the problem. I was surprised as to how worn out the plugs were at 80K miles, and I could see that one or two of the plug wires had damage.
 
Your description sounds like a fuel starvation issue, but how many miles on spark plugs and wires? Before I went to expense and trouble of replacing fuel pump I'd check the fuel pressure at the engine. If you've got good fuel pressure the injectors may be clogged. Inspect entire intake system from air box, MAF sensor, IAC valve, throttle body. Clean everything up as necessary. Replace the PCV valve. Let us know what you find.
 
I would rule out the plugs and wires being that it starts and runs normally most of the time, plugs and wires won't cause this kind of symptom. The 1st thing that you should do or have done is a fuel pressure and volume test. You mentioned that the check engine light goes out when it does start but does it go out when it doesn't start and you are cranking it over?
 
Thanks for the reply guys!!

Yardsale: Don't remember the initial fail. Actually started doing this about 1 1/2 to 2 years ago, but started out only doing it only 2 or 3 times the first year. It has however done it about 5 times in the last 2 months. It does it sometimes when its been sitting and sometimes when it has just been driven. I wrote this because it did it again today and here's what happened. Started perfect at home after driving it a couple of days ago. Went to a store about 15 minute drive away. Came back out after about 10 minutes to go to another store and it started and ran perfect. Went to another store about 10 minutes away and was back out after 10 minutes. Came back out and would not start. Tried for about 15 minutes and the best it would do is run like it was on 4 cylinders for about 10 seconds then quit. Told the wife we needed to wait about 30 minutes and it would start. We walked to another store and came back out and it started perfect and ran perfect all the way home. When I got home, I shut it off and restarted and it started perfect and idled smoothly.

Already changed the PCV elbow and checked it as well.

I have not cleaned the IAC valve. Good idea, I'll try that!



JohnZ and Yardsale: I think the plugs have about 80-100K miles and the wires are original. I was planning to change them both soon, so it looks like now would be a good time.



The thing that has me wondering is how it seems to fix itself after about 20-30 minutes. If I try to restart after about 10-15 minutes, it's a no go.



Thanks for the responses!

Harry
 
I1tech: The check engine light goes out as soon as the engine turns over, even when it doesn't start.



Harry
 
You said fuel filter change was "recent," but I'd replace it again to remove it from the equation. You're definitely due for spark plugs and wires; treat your Trac to those.
 
Actually just replaced the fuel filter a few days ago. I know they can be bad when new, but most of the issues were when the old fuel filter was on and there seems to be no change with the new one.

Just came back in from the garage and cleaning the IAC. That was an easy job and it was pretty dirty! Drove it around the block and it actually seemed to idle a little smoother. I'll give it a few days and start on the plugs and wires seeing how I was going to replace them anyway.

If that doesn't work then I'll move on to the other ideas.



Harry
 
A lot of people throw parts at a problem without waiting for the result of each change (kind of a shotgun approach). I recommend driving it without making any other changes until the symptom returns (if it doesn't, you're done). This way you'll know what change fixed it. This is not only good for us (so we know what fixed it), but good for you, too (so you don't spend time and money replacing parts that won't fix it).



You can always preform routine maintenance after the problem is fixed.
 
Have 2003 XLT 4X4 - had similar problem. Took to Ford Garage and they couldn't find problem. Suggested maybe fuel pump. Expensive proposition without proof it would fix. Read in forum of son who's father had an 02 with low millage like mine. They went through fuel pump change twice and didn't fix. He said he switched some like relays and problem went away. Corrosion possibly. Ford service manager said his tech swapped two like relays but still could not say that he definitely fixed anything. Well I've been driving it for two months and no starting problem. Have brake problem. Slowing down to a complete stop will hear gushing sound and peddle will drop appx. 1" and a chatter to a slow stop. Mech. said he couldn't find which wheel a speed sensor might be causing problem and when I told him about the relay swap he thought we may have swapped the problems. Waiting his call today.
 
Reasonable advice from Yardsale. You prolly don't need to change the fuel filter again, but I think new spark plugs and wires would be beneficial. You might pull a couple of plugs to see how they look. You replaced the PCV elbow, but how about the valve itself? Don't think it's involved with your starting issue, but if you're doing general tune-up it's an inexpensive piece. I also recommend running a bottle of injector cleaner. AMSOIL's product is P.i. Performance Improver.
 
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Thanks for the advice guys! I agree that it would be nice to know what caused the problem, so if it happens in the future, I know where to look. As noted by Yardsale, it may also help out someone else on the forum with the same problem.

Not sure if cleaning the IAC will fix the problem but you never know. I think what I will do is drive it until the problem comes back and then move on to the next idea when and if the no-start comes back. I guess the good thing about this issue is that it's motivating me to get some things done that I have been putting off for awhile.

But, for now, I'll wait and see what happens and if it returns move on to the next thing.

Vic: about 3 years ago I had the hidden crack under the elbow. I replaced everything from PCV valve to the elbow so that shouldn't be the issue, but I'll put it on the maybe list.

I've never used any injector cleaner, but I will put that on the list to try as well.

Jake: any idea which relays they were talking about?



I'll keep you guys posted.

Harry
 
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Sounds like there has been a lot of guessing and parts-changing here, with no structured troubleshooting and performance testing. However, you also can't fix it if it isn't broken.
 
Gavin: Sure, there is some guessing going on, but I haven't changed or don't plan on changing anything that doesn't need to be done anyway. If I get to the point where those normal maintenance type things don't fix the problem then I will go ahead and change out the fuel pump anyway with the idea that it was probably at the end of its useful life anyway. If that doesn't fix the problem then I will move to a more structured type of troubleshooting.



Harry
 
Not throwing any codes either.
Click to expand...

This is what makes it so frustrating. :angry:
 
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Bad plugs can cause a higher requirement on the plug wires...and bad/old wires can result in sparks from the wire to engine ground, thus not reaching the plugs. And that problem can disappear...it's what happened to a vehicle of mine. Once plugs and wires were replaced it ran like new.
 
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Sounds like the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. Very common problem on early Gen-1 Sport Tracs.

It just needs to be cleaned. Clean the throttle body while your at it. There are several postings on the cleaning procedure.



...Rich
 
Well for now, it does look like it could possibly be the IAC valve. As I mentioned last night, I cleaned the valve and it was pretty dirty. It started fine last night after cleaning it.



This morning I started it several times at home with no problems. I just came back from getting new plugs and plug wires (had to go to 2 different parts stores). It started fine every time. When I got home I started it a few more times and no problems. Hoping it was that simple!

I'm going to drive it a few more days before installing the new plugs/wires to confirm that was the issue.



Thanks!
 

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