2010 Mustang Shifter: Question

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kevinbakon

kevinbakon

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Hey Aaron,

Regarding your shifter swap project . . . .

Overall, it doesn't sound like the project is all too difficult, but I would like any other pointers you might have to offer . . . specifically, which "mechanism" is needed?

It sounds as though the nylon center shaft as well as the knob itself are needed, but beyond that is the entire Selector Lever Assembly needed?

I saw a couple youtube videos for the mustang's shifter, so I understand the button-depressing difference, but I have no knowledge of the inner working differences.

Through Ford, it looks like there are only two parts, the knob & the entire assembly (retail over $300)

It sounds as though the more cost efficient method is to search high and low for a donor, but before I do, I hoped to have a better understanding of what I'm getting into.

Feel free to reply directly or IM me . . . .

Fantastic looking truck by the way, I can't wait to see it the finished product!
 
I junk yard shopped for a month and found one on eBay - it was $160 for the whole assembly - All i needed afterall was the handle - I made the rest work - If i would have bought the handle only I would have been just fine - I am only waiting for some Billit Pedals



It does take a little work - I could have opened up the black plastic piece and made it work but I just took it from the Mustang. So far - three of my Ford Dealer csutomers have seen it and when they open the door or drive it, they think its OEM - SVT -



The button for OD works the same but the nylon insert that goes up and down actually is Fine but you need to get out a cutting tool and shorten the steel shaft 3/4 inch - if you dont do this it will sit too high and look silly. After that you have to drop the little chome bottom, line up a drill and creat a hole for the set screw - because there is a Nylon rod that goes up and down through the hollow steel tube you have to be very careful. Your rod is what activates the shift interlock - so if thats messed up, its stuck in park unless you stick your fingers in there and manually depress the pin. Like I said in the origional post, this is the tough part because there is a sweet spot for getting the shift interlock and the key to come out. He got one perfect and had to dremel the black plastic lever off the solinoid so it would dop back and the key would come out. I am glad it came out fine but there are several places it could have hung me out to dry - and cost me another $300 for a shifter for the Explorer



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Awesome!

Thanks for the detailed explanation . . . . I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on this one and hope it all goes well.

I plan to take pictures along the way and if I get time, I'd like to do a write up . . . . crediting you of course.

Thanks again!
 
Just a heads-up for inquiring minds . . . .

So I got a price for the 2010 shifter handle from my Ford guy and it came in just under $200 . . . .

I found a possible part number online for a 2012 mustang and ran it by him.

He confirmed that the part is the shifter for a 2011 & 2012 and is indeed the exact same part used in the 2010 . . . . best part is that its less than half of the price for the part he found for the 2010 shifter.

He went on to mention that the same happens between several of the Ford vs. Ford Racing parts.

Ordered!
 
Update:

So far, I got the shifter in and my console torn apart. I tried for some time to remove the screw that holds the shifter handle in place. The problem was that the screw just spun over and over with no resistance, but I eventually got it out with some creative and slightly forced tactics. It got a little late and I didn't want to pull an all-nighter, so I precut and stripped some lengths of wire and left it alone for the night. . . .

My plan is to wrap it up this evening and start putting the project together to submit.

Wish me luck that the rest goes off without a hitch!
 
good luck... Remember the sweet spot is a hard thing to find. Where the key comes out and the shift interlock works. The screws that came with the shifter were junk and I had to replace them with a set of grade 8' from Fastenal for .23 each. They are the same 8mm and they cut into the steel shaft much better and hold solid for the past two weeks.
 
Alright, I FINALLY managed to collectively squeeze the time in to finish this project up . . . total cost = <$80 (brand new shifter and two 8x6mm screws)

I've had my console torn out for a few weeks now, so it not only feels great to have the console back but even better, I couldn't be happier with the finished product!!!!

Thanks to Supercharged Adrenalin SVT for your detailed explanations. Although I didn't quite understand some of it before hand, every detail you're listed made perfect sense once I got to it. Each obstacle was expected, planned and executed accordingly. Although I was nervous at times, I committed and I'm glad I did. I didn't end up cutting the black plastic guide. The OEM is circular and the mustang one is rectangular, but the overall diameters are close enough, that it slid in naturally.

My only problem was finding the sweet spot, to remove the key. Although I did identify the spot, I wasn't able to get the hardware to function properly after shortening the steel rod. However, since you can't physically pull the key out of the tumbler until its completely in the Off position, I ended up bypassing the mechanism in the shifter assembly that adds additional prevention.

I took some pictures along the way and if there's enough interest, I'll find the time to develop a step-by-step procedure . . . . just let me know

Oh, by the way, I went ahead and changed the shift indicator illumination from the OEM green to to red!

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Yeah, yeah . . . . I know I need to detail my truck :grin:
 
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Nice job!

Would be a nice write up to have on the site for sure.

 
I loved the shifter in my 2010 Hemi Ram Sport. It was just like this one. I also really like the OEM shifter in my STA....I'm not sure if I'd like this mod or not.





How is the comfort factor when resting your hand on the top of the shifter while driving? Does it feel weird because it's no much shorter than the OEM?
 
Hmmm - I don't drive with my hand on the shifter however when I drop out of OD on occasion and the button seems to be perfectly suited for me. For me it is a great balance between the non-truck aspect of the creation - from the memory seats to the saleen boost gauges, to the alum pedals so the shifter is a natural. I just couldnt get used to gripping the big erect shifter - so changing the light to red - ideas?
 
all i have is the bad pic before it was set perfect - This was the Mock up before the wiring was done - it looks like this just cleaner and functional and the Chrome rings really help it look like it came with the truck. The light glow is the same - that really is nice
 
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