Aloha: 2007 ST 2wd Suspension - shocks questions

[DaBoss]

Aloha folks, my 2007 Sport Trac V6 2WD has 150,000 miles on it. The ride has changed some. There are times I feel like it bottoms out, mind you I have things in the back area with the lid on it, so I have some weight back there. My mechanic says the shocks seem to be alight as he pushes down on the vehicle it is not "bouncing" around. Still I wonder if it is time to replace these as they are the originals? If so, are there struts both front and back and would you replace everything or just the shocks, springs? Any advice on brand: Monroe, Rancho, etc?

Also, I hear a noise from time to time like something is loose, vibrates when I am on an uneven road, don't here it on a freeway. Could it be my muffler and needing new hangers? Just curious as our vehicles age and put on miles where I am at, what needs to be replaced in regard to the suspension, tracking/driveline area? Thank you very much. Mahalo!

 

[Evox]

Aloha folks, my 2007 Sport Trac V6 2WD has 150,000 miles on it. The ride has changed some. There are times I feel like it bottoms out, mind you I have things in the back area with the lid on it, so I have some weight back there. My mechanic says the shocks seem to be alight as he pushes down on the vehicle it is not "bouncing" around. Still I wonder if it is time to replace these as they are the originals? If so, are there struts both front and back and would you replace everything or just the shocks, springs? Any advice on brand: Monroe, Rancho, etc?

Also, I hear a noise from time to time like something is loose, vibrates when I am on an uneven road, don't here it on a freeway. Could it be my muffler and needing new hangers? Just curious as our vehicles age and put on miles where I am at, what needs to be replaced in regard to the suspension, tracking/driveline area? Thank you very much. Mahalo!

1. What do you mean it feels like it's bottoming out? Is it only the backend that feels this way, or do you feel like the front end is "bottoming out" as well?
2. Has the truck's suspension been overhauled? What's its history?
3. When you visually inspect all the suspension components, is there anything obvious, torn bushings and ball joints?
4. With the tires raised and your hands in the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, do you get any play?
5. With the tires raised and your hands in the 12 and 6 o'clock position, do you get any play?
6. If it's just your back end, what is the condition of the leaf springs and shackles? What is the condition of the sway bar links or sway bar bushings?

 

[DaBoss]

Aloha Evox, thank you for your reply/list to me. I believe it is more in the back end. I did have the stabilizer links and bushings replaced both front and back a few years ago as they had worn out.

In regard to the rear end do we have struts? If so, do you recommend Motorcraft, KYB or Monroe? I will ask my mechanic when he gets the truck up on the rack about my leaf springs and shackles as well as ball joints. I do not think any ball joints, tie rod ends, etc have every been replaced. If so, do you get original Ford parts or go with aftermarket like MOOG? Thank you again. Mahalo!

 

[swshawaii]

2007-10 Gen 2 has four wheel independent suspension. No leaf springs or shackles and uses struts.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Explorer_Sport_Trac#Chassis_2

 

[DaBoss]

Aloha SWS, thank you very much, I was looking under the truck as best as possible and didn't see any leaf springs, I thought my eyes were going! This is my father's ST that he originally had on the Honolulu side and I brought it up here to the mainland with about 60,000 miles on it. I don't think he ever had any of the struts replaced, for that matter any of the tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings front and rear. I now have about 150,000 miles on it.

Would you replace just the strut or the whole strut/coil spring/mount assembly? Do you like stock parts or aftermarket like Monroe?

I did have the sway bar/stabilizer links changed out with their "bushing ends" too. That is the extent of what has been changed out. I hope when I am with my mechanic and we get it up on the lift, we can look over what it needs. And again, do you like to stay with stock or aftermarket like MOOG? Mahalo Nui thank you very much for your help.

2007-10 Gen 2 has four wheel independent suspension. No leaf springs or shackles and uses struts.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Explorer_Sport_Trac#Chassis_2

 

[Evox]

Aloha Evox, thank you for your reply/list to me. I believe it is more in the back end. I did have the stabilizer links and bushings replaced both front and back a few years ago as they had worn out.

In regard to the rear end do we have struts? If so, do you recommend Motorcraft, KYB or Monroe? I will ask my mechanic when he gets the truck up on the rack about my leaf springs and shackles as well as ball joints. I do not think any ball joints, tie rod ends, etc have every been replaced. If so, do you get original Ford parts or go with aftermarket like MOOG? Thank you again. Mahalo!

It's a personal preference. FOR ME, my experience has always been that cheap parts ended up not being cheap. Today, it's hit and miss when it comes to suspension parts, but Monroe and MOOG have never done me wrong. Others will disagree, and obviously, there are different levels of quality within brands these days.

As has been noted, 2007's didn't have leaf springs, so I stand corrected.

 

[DaBoss]

It's a personal preference. FOR ME, my experience has always been that cheap parts ended up not being cheap. Today, it's hit and miss when it comes to suspension parts, but Monroe and MOOG have never done me wrong. Others will disagree, and obviously, there are different levels of quality within brands these days.

As has been noted, 2007's didn't have leaf springs, so I stand corrected.

Aloha Evox, thank you again. I just noticed there is a Suspension area, I should have posted there!

By the way, not sure how often ball joints go out? It looks like my lower front ball joints from the factory are "sealed" but that Moog makes both a front upper and lower ball joint that allow for it to be greased, I guess I would just have to get the dust boots to go with these? Do you suggest if changing out these ball joints to go with the Moog over the stock sealed ones? Thank you again for your help. Mahalo Nui!

 

[swshawaii]

Moog has always been known for their upper line "Problem Solver" suspension parts. Like most other manufacturers they are also known for failing rubber dust boots. Moog's newer design K80771 lower ball joints use a much smaller integrated boot that is much less susceptible to dry rot and leaking.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1288126&cc=1433278&pt=10070&jsn=26https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...c,4.0l+v6,1433278,suspension,ball+joint,10070Regarding struts, wait for other second gen owners for recommendations. Good luck and Aloha!

 

[Mike Palguta]

STA suspension is surprisingly robust, especially with regards to the ball joints and struts. I have 165+ miles on the odo, and still have the original ball joints. I have been told by the local Ford dealership that they are wearing, tho not enough to NEED replacing as yet. I have, however, replaced all 4 drive axle/CV Joints over the course of a few recent years. The rubber boots that protect the CV joints will crack and split, allowing dirt to invade the CV joint as cause failure. The problem usually manifests itself in vibration at speed, and even a clicking noise. If yours are original, perhaps a check on them would be in order. Also, as a warning, the EGR valve tends to fail at 150xxx miles, It can be a DIY project, tho poses many difficulties for a DIYer, as well as a pro. Replacing, including labor will run around 8 bills. All the best on your quest to keep yours alive!

 

[Evox]

STA suspension is surprisingly robust, especially with regards to the ball joints and struts. I have 165+ miles on the odo, and still have the original ball joints. I have been told by the local Ford dealership that they are wearing, tho not enough to NEED replacing as yet. I have, however, replaced all 4 drive axle/CV Joints over the course of a few recent years. The rubber boots that protect the CV joints will crack and split, allowing dirt to invade the CV joint as cause failure. The problem usually manifests itself in vibration at speed, and even a clicking noise. If yours are original, perhaps a check on them would be in order. Also, as a warning, the EGR valve tends to fail at 150xxx miles, It can be a DIY project, tho poses many difficulties for a DIYer, as well as a pro. Replacing, including labor will run around 8 bills. All the best on your quest to keep yours alive!

Are you sure you're talking about the EGR valve?

Removing and testing an EGR valve is a simple process. You can get a new valve one for around $50 or less or buy a Motorcraft for around $80. If someone tries to charge you $800, they are trying to rip you off BIG TIME.

 

[Mike Palguta]

Evox, sorry to say 2 Ford dealerships here in central Ohio quoted me nearly identical prices. I can tell you Bob Boyd Ford struggled enough with teardown they actually bent the bracket that holds the valve to the manifold. it took 2 additional days to find the bracket new. I also had the E-Brake cable replaced, total bill for all repairs was north of a grand.

 

[DaBoss]

STA suspension is surprisingly robust, especially with regards to the ball joints and struts. I have 165+ miles on the odo, and still have the original ball joints. I have been told by the local Ford dealership that they are wearing, tho not enough to NEED replacing as yet. I have, however, replaced all 4 drive axle/CV Joints over the course of a few recent years. The rubber boots that protect the CV joints will crack and split, allowing dirt to invade the CV joint as cause failure. The problem usually manifests itself in vibration at speed, and even a clicking noise. If yours are original, perhaps a check on them would be in order. Also, as a warning, the EGR valve tends to fail at 150xxx miles, It can be a DIY project, tho poses many difficulties for a DIYer, as well as a pro. Replacing, including labor will run around 8 bills. All the best on your quest to keep yours alive!

Aloha Mike, thank you for your input about the drive axle/cv joints, will definitely check up on those. The EGR valve, did you replace with a Ford part or aftermarket? Mahalo

 

[DaBoss]

Are you sure you're talking about the EGR valve?

Removing and testing an EGR valve is a simple process. You can get a new valve one for around $50 or less or buy a Motorcraft for around $80. If someone tries to charge you $800, they are trying to rip you off BIG TIME.

Aloha Evox, I will check with my mechanic what the EGR valve might run to replace on my Generation 2 vehicle. Curious about that. Mahalo!

 

[Mike Palguta]

Hey D, since it was done at a Ford dealership, they used "genuine Motorcraft parts", so I had no alternative there. Knowing the EGR valve is subjected to hot exhaust gasses for 150xxx miles, plus the throttle body and other vital parts first need to come off, I refuse to believe this repair can be done for $200.
Please let us know what your mechanic quotes for the work. All the best!

 

[Evox]

Just for fun, after I read the above post I went out and removed my EGR value that has over 300,000 on it to inspect it. Other than grabbing a socket and wrench the procedure took me under 5 minutes. A Motorcraft EGR valve replacement at my nearest auto parts store has it listed for $87.

I understand the 4.6L is located in a slightly less accessible place, but I'm sure I could do it in 30 minutes or less. Anyone charging you $800 dollars is ripping you off.

 

[Evox]

The EGR valve was still good, and it's now back on my truck.

 

[Evox]

Dealerships are good for warranty and recall work. Beyond that, you are paying top dollar for labor. As I said, I do my own work, but if I couldn't or didn't want to, I'd try to find a good honest independent mechanic and develop a relationship.

There are a lot of dishonest mechanics out there. I once sent my wife to get an alignment. She called and said they wanted $1300 to replace some components. I told her to come home with the quote. When she got home, I went out and inspected the suspension myself.

The alignment tech had disconnected my wife's front sway bar links; his big mistake was he had screwed back on the bolts confirming what he had done. Had he only disconnected one and left the bolts off, he could have made the argument that the links bolt just fell off. But removing them and putting them back on confirmed what he had done. Not only did this make the truck handle terrible, it put my wife's life at risk.

I trust very few people when it comes to working on my cars and trucks. While I believe a man should be paid fairly for his time and skill, there are many mechanics out there that go for more.

If I had to rely on other people to fix my ST, I'd probably sell it. I'd probably buy or lease new vehicles under warranty and sell them as their warranty expired. I'm so thankful now that I grew up learning how to work on my own vehicles. And in a way, I'm glad most people didn't, because it makes used vehicles so cheap.

 

[Gimbree]

Aloha folks, my 2007 Sport Trac V6 2WD has 150,000 miles on it. The ride has changed some. There are times I feel like it bottoms out, mind you I have things in the back area with the lid on it, so I have some weight back there. My mechanic says the shocks seem to be alight as he pushes down on the vehicle it is not "bouncing" around. Still I wonder if it is time to replace these as they are the originals? If so, are there struts both front and back and would you replace everything or just the shocks, springs? Any advice on brand: Monroe, Rancho, etc?

Also, I hear a noise from time to time like something is loose, vibrates when I am on an uneven road, don't here it on a freeway. Could it be my muffler and needing new hangers? Just curious as our vehicles age and put on miles where I am at, what needs to be replaced in regard to the suspension, tracking/driveline area? Thank you very much. Mahalo!

Easily replaced all four of my struts on my 07 with Monroe Quick Struts at 115k. Took away some of the sway and excessive bounce. Going strong at165k

 

[DaBoss]

Easily replaced all four of my struts on my 07 with Monroe Quick Struts at 115k. Took away some of the sway and excessive bounce. Going strong at165k

Aloha Gimbree- thank you for that confirmation. I am going to order up some strut assemblies, I guess that is the good deal whereby they come with the springs and strut mounts already on them. Will let folks know how it goes. Mahalo!

 

[Evox]

@DaBoss If you want to learn this truck so that you can do some or most of your own work, you may want to invest in a 2007 Ford Sport Trac Shop and Service Manual.

Look around the internet, and sometimes you can pick up a good deal on eBay. I like the old fashion book versions, but some people are fine with just the computer CD version, which would probably be cheaper.

A set of manuals will help you tremendously in learning how to work on your own truck. A good manual set will pay for itself many times over.

Also, I have a fairly expensive ODB2 reader, but my oldest son has this one.

BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone & Android

It's not going to give you everything, but it's simple, and it'll point you in the right direction when something goes wrong. It will really help you keep your truck in tip-top shape, and if something goes wrong can help you diagnose problems in your cars and trucks. You'll be able to come on this and other forums with the trouble codes, which will help people like me help you much easier.

Good luck!