Anyone replaced their own fuel pump yet?

[Doug Watts]

Ford replaced my fuel pump (entire assembly) at 80K miles and the pump is starting to crap out again at 105K. :angry: I'm having the exact same symptoms, anyway, when the fuel pump "gets hot" i.e. driving more than 45 minutes.



Has anyone changed out their own fuel pump on the ST? AutoZone and Advance Auto both carry the same 2 pumps, but one pump has a 1/4" connector and the other has a 3/32" connector. I don't know which one I need and they both only stock the 3/32". I really don't want to get everything apart only to find out I don't have the correct part.



Anyone have some good inside info for me? Thanks.

 

[Todd Z]

Since the truck runs, you can get the tank near empty before dropping it to change, also the tank is plastic, So it is relative light...



Check another place on line for the pump, Autozone's listing may be wrong..

Todd Z

 

[Richard L]

Doug,

Todd is correct on dropping the gas tank to get at the fuel pump, but I wanted to mention that the fuel is used to cool the pump. If you run your truck while low on fuel it may be contributing to the overheating.



The overheating of the fuel pump is not a common problem with the Sport Trac, and going through 2 fuel pumps in 100K miles for overheating is not normal? I'm wondering if you might have a wiring problem that is reducing the voltage to the pump and causing it to work harder to maintain pressure? It might be worth checking the wiring, the ground and the voltage at the fuel pump.



...Rich

 

[Doug Watts]

Todd/Rich, Thanks for the ideas.



One of the AutoZone clerks told me he had a problem with the fuel pump wiring on his Explorer also.



Maybe I shouldn't have said that it "gets hot", but that is the only thing that I could think of that might be the problem. Meaning that when it has been run for a while it heats up and the seal in the pump expands and lets gas get pushed past therefore losing pressure. When Ford replaced it, the ticket said "fuel pump losing pressure on acceleration".



I'm also having a little trouble starting the ST. It cranks a lot longer before it fires up as if it isn't getting gas. This makes me think that the gas is leaking past the fuel pump and back into the tank when it sets overnight.



I'm hoping to change out just the pump instead of the whole pump assy so I can save $200. The pump alone is only $95, but the whole assy is $280ish.



Any other info, guys?

 

[Richard L]

Doug,

The hard starting after sitting overnight is a common problem with the earlier model Sport Trac's fuel pumps. An easy way around that is to turn on the ignition for about 10 seconds before attempting to crank the engine with the starter. This allows time for the fuel pump to build pressure before you attempt to start. My 2001 Sport Trac had the leaking fuel pump and I found that letting the pump build pressure before starting would allow the engine to start immediately without all that wear on the starter.



There is an updated fuel pump out to replace the old ones, but they will still get the old ones until their supplies are used. Getting an aftermarket pump from someone other than Ford might be more reliable.



...Rich

 

[Doug Watts]

Rich,



I've always let the ABS light go out (3-5 secs) before I tried to crank the engine for just that reason. The hard starting isn't that bad to deal with. The fact that I could be trying to pass someone and I lose fuel pressure at a critical time is what is worrying me most.



Maybe I should just get both pumps and return the one that doesn't have the right connector. That is if I can return the one they don't normally stock.

 

[Jason Wessinger 2]

I have the same problem when runnung E-85, hard starting that is. 04 no problems with

reg or super gas.

 

[Bob McDonald]

I think there is a general misconception about the cooling of the fuel pump.



Personally, I believe it is the action of the fuel flowing through the pump that provides the cooling function, not the fact that is happens to be surrounded by the fuel in the tank itself.

 

[John M]

FYI: I Use to work at a Ford Dealer



I dont know if it can be done on a Sport Trac but on fullsize trucks and even Rangers, its easier to lift the bed off and remove pump assembly thru the top instead of dropping the tank. On the trucks it could be done in 1/2 the time that Ford said it should take, I believe there are only a few bolts holding the bed to the frame.

 

[Mike Wilson]

Doug,

You have flow cooling, and static cooling. Flow cooling is when the fuel

is running through the pump, and static cooling is related to the amount of

fuel your pump is sitting in in the tank. If you don't normally run your tank

on or near empty, neither of the above should be a real problem for you.

If you do run on or near empty, "air infiltration" or "cavitation" might be

a problem, where as the fuel pump starts to draw air instead of fuel, thereby

lessening the cooling effect, since air does not cool as well as a liquid (fuel)

in this case.

Sounds more like a bad design of the fuel pump in the first place, or an

electrical problem causing heat build-up inside the armature of the pump

motor itself, which I think would be a more likely cause.

Check your fuel pump voltage, primary leads and grounds, for corrosion and

resistance, and a fuel rail pressure test at your fuel rail service port,

and also your fuel filter for restriction and blockage.

(In other words, pressure and resistance = heat!)

 

[Doug Watts]

Thanks guys. I'm going to try to do the fuel filter tonight. Even though it doesn't have much more mileage on it than the pump, you never know. In any case, it can't hurt to change it. I'll have to wait until Sunday to do more.



Does anyone know which size connector it will use (1/4" or 3/32")? My build date is 01/01. The part number on Rusty's site for the whole assy is XL2Z 9H307 AJ, but I could swear that the part # on my ticket at home is XL2Z 9H307 AK. I'll have to check again.